Restaurante Capri Abril 14 de 2014
- Los Vinos y el Menú
- Información sobre los vinos
- Notas regionales
- Vinotables rating de los vinos
Orlando Reos, Alfonso Sánchez
TIPO : Blanco: Abierta. Rojos: Ciega
Mario Aguilar, Italo Mikow, Orlando Reos, Alfonso Sánchez, Jairo Sánchez, Peter Scherer, Miguel Segovia
LOS VINOS Y EL MENÚ
Esta degustación es la segunda de la serie de vinos de Italia programada para el 2014, que en esta oportunidad incluye las cuatro regiones viníferas de Piemonte, Lombardía, Liguria y Valle D’Aosta. Los vinos de algunas de las subregiones (p.e. Valle D’Aosta) son dificiles de encontrar en el mercado del área de Washigton D.C. y los del Piamonte de la calidad establecida para las degustaciones club son relativamente costosos, especialmente los Barolos. Además estos últimos requieren un añejamiento de al menos 5 a 7 años para estar en su punto lo cual los hace aún más dificles de conseguir. Por lo tanto se ha buscado un grupo parcialmente representativo de la región dentro de estas limitaciones. En cuanto a la cantidad de vinos, y dado el número de participantes nos limitamos a un blanco y tres tintos y eliminamos un Franciacorta espumante de Lombardía que pensamos en un momento ofrecer. Recomendamos no dejar de degustar estos espumantes de Lombardía que pueden ser excelentes. Los tintos son de gran cuerpo, tánicos y pueden mejorar notablemente con unos años mas en la botella. Semejantes a los Borgoña (Cote D’Or).
Punta Crena – Vermentino Vignetto Isasco 2012 – Liguria
Marcarini – Barolo Brunate 2008 – Piemonte
Marchesi di Gresy – Barbaresco – Martinega 2008 – Piemonte
Seghesio – Barolo – la Villa 2007 – Piemonte
- Ensalada de marisco fría con aceite y sal
- Gnocchi gratinados con tomate
- Ensalada verde
- Ternera con salsa sorrentina
INFORMACIÓN SOBRE LOS VINOS
(All information obtained and condensed from several Internet articles)
Punta Crena – Vermentino – Vignetto Isasco 2012
The Appellation. This wine is produced in the Colline Savonesi of the Riviera Ligure di Ponente. The vines ar grown in terrazes that shaoe the landscape of the region and that requires harvesting by hand in small baskets that preserves the grapes from prematur cruching and oxidation. Located in the coastal strip that separates the sea from the Alps, the region is subject to climateic influence of the Ligurian Sea (mediterranean) and the Alps. The varieties grown here are mainly Crovino, Lumassina, Mataossu, Pigato, Rossese, Sangiovese, Vermentino.
The Winery. The Ruffino family has oned this winery for over 500 years. Located some 60 miles west of Genoa in Varigotti at some 350 m of altitiude. and about 1200 m from the coast. Punta Crena is named for a large promontory jutting into the sea at the edge of the village. The rocks in Varigotti have an unusually high aluminum content; as the rock breaks down the aluminum is released and washes into the clay soil, where over several years it oxidizes and turns red. This soil is found only in Varigotti and certain areas of Provence (which is just a few hours away by car). The winery does everything the same way our ancestors have for hundreds of years. They even build their stone terraces by hand, using the method established here three thousand years ago. The winery states on ots webpage that theirs is “un vino fatto di sole, mare, lavoro e passione”.
The grapes are hand collected and trasportes to the pressess in small containers to keep their integrity. All vinification in stainless steel, no machines are used for pumping over. Instead the wine is trasported using the pressure gerated by the fermentation gases. Wines spend four months on the lees, generally no malolactic fermentation, depending on the conditions (esp. acidity level) of each vintage. Vine Age: 16-31 years.
The Wine. Vermentino (or ‘Rolle’ in southern France known also as Rollo, Pigato, Malvoisie de Corse, Favorita) is a Mediterranean white-wine grape found principally in southern Europe, notably southern France, northern Italy, and the islands of Corsica and Sardinia. While many argue that it is of Spanish origin, Vermentino is most associated with Liguria (where it is known as Pigato) and in Riviera Ligure di Ponente. It is used in blended and varietal wines in such well-known DOCs as Colli di Luni and Cinque Terre. Vermentino grapes are typically used to produce light, attractively aromatic wines with refreshing acidity and leafy, lemon-tinged flavors. In contrast, the Vermentino wines of Bolgheri in northern Tuscany are more highly regarded for their depth and complexity, and can be likened to Viognier for their floral, slightly soapy characteristics. Few Vermentino wines have the structure to reward cellaring, thus they are best consumed young.
Food matches: Ligurians produce Vermentino wines to go with theyr excellent seafood. Popular pairingas are: Fried marinated sardines (sardine a scabecciu); clam soup (zuppa di vongole), thin-sliced octopus drizzled with sudachi (a Japanese citrus fruit), Hushpuppies (deep-fried cornbread balls); deep-fried shellfish turnovers (empanadas de mariscos). baked King George whiting fillets.
Alcohol: 12.5%; Price: $24
This wine has not been rated yet by the experts.
Marcarini – Barolo Brunate 2008
The Appellation. Barolo is a red Denominazione de Origen Controllata a Garantita (DOCG) wine produced in the northern Italian region of Piedmont. The zone includes the communes of Barolo, Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga d’Alba and parts of the communes of Cherasco, Diano d’Alba, Grinzane Cavour, La Morra, Monforte d’Alba, Novello, Roddi, Verduno, all in the province of Cuneo, south-west of Alba. Only vineyards planted in primarily calcareous–clay soils in the hills with suitable slopes and orientations are considered suitable for Barolo production. La Morra, built in the Barolo production area, is 13 km far from Alba, and includes the villages of Annunziata, Berri, Rivalta and Santa Maria. Barolo is often described as having the aromas of tar and roses, and the wines are noted for their ability to age and usually take on a rust red tinge as they mature. When subjected to aging of at least five years before release, the wine can be labeled a Riserva.
The Winery. The Brunate cru lies in the commune of La Morra and Barolo and is one of the most famous in the region. This 4.5 hectare vineyard, re-planted in 1980/1986, is at 300m with south/south-west exposure. For several generations our family has owned a considerable part of the Brunate vineyards; Brunate has been recognized as one of the Langhe’s most important cru zones since the 1300s. Wine is produced by “traditional” methods through rigorous work in the vineyard, low yield per hectare, harvesting the grapes when they are completely and perfectly ripe, and carefully selecting the grape bunches for vinification. The fermentation is strictly controlled, and the maceration of the must in contact with the skins lasts for at least four weeks. When the malolactic fermentation is completed, the wine ages in medium-sized Slavonian oak barrels (20/40 hl) for at least two years. Overall, it is subject only to traditional winemaking techniques.
The Wine. Single-vineyard. One hundred per cent Nebbiolo grape. The Brunate cru is one of the most famous in the Barolo region – apparently celebrated as early as the 1300s! – and expresses the elegance of La Morra to perfection. Élevage is at least 2 years in 20/40-hl. barrels of Slavonian oak, followed by a third year in bottle. The wine has a magnificent garnet-red color with intense ruby-red reflections. The nose is composite, rich, full and persistent, with hints of vanilla, sweet spices, tobacco, mountain hay and underbrush. Impressive taste sensations reveal the wine’s imperious, noble, warm and velvety character, and the flavor is long and intense. To be served in crystal glasses with very large bowls. Austere and imposing, displaying characteristic power and strength. Cellar life of 20 years, more in the finest vintages.
Food Pairing: Red meats, game
Alcohol 14%; Price: $56
Experts Ratings: WA 94+, IWC 92, WS 88
Marchesi di Gresy – Barbaresco – Martinega 2008
The Appellation: Situated in the Commune of Barbaresco at Martinenga, south facing exposure at 280 m a.s.l., Martinenga Barbaresco takes its name from the vineyard.
The Winery: The Tenute Cisa Asinary dei Marchesi di Grésy, made up of three estates situated in the Langhe and Monferrato zones. The Martinenga estate in the Langhe grows primarily Nebbiolo grapes for the production of Barbaresco D.O.C.G., Barbera and Cabernet Sauvignon. Nearby is the Monte Aribaldo estate where Dolcetto d’Alba and Chardonnay are grown. In Monferrato, the La Serra estate produces exclusively Moscato d’Asti D.O.C.G.
The Wine: Nebbiolo 100%. Vinification on skins: 8/10 days fermentation with floating cap followed by 5/10 days fermentation with submerged cap. Daily pumping over. Malolactic fermentation is carried out in full at a controlled temperature after the alcoholic one. Aged in French barriques of 225 liters for few months, then in Slavonian oak casks of 25hl for 12 months followed by a maturation in bottle for 12 months. can be kept 20 to 25 years.
Food Pairing: Meat, poultry, and aged cheeses
Alcohol 14.5%; Price: $50
Experts Ratings: WA 93; W&Spirits 92; WE 91; IWC 90
Seghesio – Barolo – la Villa 2007
The Appellation : Barolo – DOCG
The Winery: Brothers Aldo and Riccardo Seghesio began bottling their wine from their ten-hectares in the La Villa cru in 1988; the cru, in the Castelletto subzone not far from Manzone’s Gramolere, is another one of the most precipitous, best-drained expositions in all of Barolo, reached only by a ride of switchbacks up from the town of Monforte.
The Wine. Nebbiolo 100%. Seghesio’s Barolo is concentrated, big and muscular with pure Nebbiolo aromas and velvety texture. The estate is no-longer the secret of those in-the-know, ever since the 2004 vintage received 95 points from the Wine Spectator. Ageing: 24 months in French oak barriques and tonneaux with a further 12 months in bottle prior to release.
Alcohol: 15%; Price: $52
Expert ratings: WA 93; IWC 91
Piemonte, Lombardía, Liguria and Valle D’Aosta.
The Aosta Valley (Valle d’Aosta) covers a mountainous corner of Italy’s far northwest, where the nation’s borders meet those of France and Switzerland. It is Italy’s smallest and least populous region, just one eighth the size of neighboring Piedmont in the Graian Alps. It is a narrow mountain valley about 25 miles (40km) long and vineyards lie within this narrow strip of land, mostly running along the left bank of the Dora Baltea river, where the soils are a mix of sand and clay. Those vines planted slightly higher up off the valley floor are exposed to cooler temperatures (particularly at night) but enjoy an abundance of sunshine during the daytime.
French is the official second language here, and French grape varieties are just as common here as Italian varieties (Chardonnay and Gamay grow cheek-by-jowl alongside Nebbiolo and Dolcetto). In addition to the more familiar grape varieties, the Institut Agricole Régional has indexed 13 native regional grapes, some well suited to use in single-variety wines, others used only in blends. Among the reds are Petit Rouge and Fumin, but the most prevalent is Picotendro, the local form of Nebbiolo. Fruity whites are produced in both dry and sweet styles, from Moscato Bianco and Pinot Grigio (sometimes known here as Malvoisie). The valley’s continental climate means that winter arrives early, making early-ripening varietals the most successful here.
Around three-quarters of Aosta Valley wine is produced by six co-operative wineries, which between them have 450 grower-members. Annual production is approximately 30,000 hL (792,000 gallons): under a quarter of that qualifies for DOC status and the majority is sold locally.
Aosta Valley has no DOCG titles but produces excellent wines. In Valle d’Aosta, together with the white wines in the area of Morgex from Prie Blanc grapes, delicious dessert wines such as Malvasia di Nus and Moscato di Chambave are produced. Slightly more downstream there are delicate red wines from Fumin, Pinot Nero, Petit Rouge grapes, up to the Nebbiolo di Donnas, in the best exposed plots of land on the banks of the Dora Baltea river.
Liguria is a wine region located on the Mediterranean coast of Italy and spreads between the French border to Tuscany, Though much of the scenery is indeed stunning, it’s also rocky and steep, creating quite the viticultural challenge. But despite this, wine has been produced here for many centuries, dating from the Etruscan and Roman era. Vineyards are sprinkled throughout Liguria wherever conditions permit, some so remote they can only be reached by boat. Most of these are small boutique operations, dedicated to making the most out of these steep and difficult surroundings. The slopes do have their benefits, shielding some of the coldest winds and yielding limestone rich soils that produce excellent, minerally white grapes, many particular to the region. Coronata, which has Riesling-like properties, is produced in the poetically named Colli di Lune (Hills of the Moon) DOC. Pigato, found in Riveria Ligure di Ponente among other wines, has unique, bone dry saline flavors with a slightly pine-like aroma which are an excellent match for briny seafood and herbal pasta dishes. Buzetto and Lumassina are also found as varietal releases and blends. Golfo di Tigulio is known for its passito (sweet) wines that are made from blends using the local Bianchetta Genovese white grape.
The most famous Ligurian wine is Cinque Terre (Five Lands), for the villages of Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore. Vineyards here are so steep that a monorail system has been built for harvest time to carry the grape bushels to the production houses. The wines are mostly dry whites from Bosco, Albarola and Vermentino. These are also produced as Cinque Terra Sciacchetra, a traditional sweet wine that has been produced since at least the early centuries AD.
Lombardy (Lombardia) region is the industrial powerhouse of the country by contratst it produces some of the most artisan, small production wines made here and surprising pockets of beautiful unspoiled wine country. Nestled in the northwest of Italy, Lombardy is situated just below Switzerland and to the northeast of Piemonte. The main center of commerce is bustling Milan and the region has an array of beautiful “art cities” including medieval Bergamo, Cremona (home of the violin where Stardivarius had his workshop) and Mantova (famous for its literary festival). Lombardy is blessed with spectacular lakes, from chic Lake Como, to exuberant Lake Garda to darling Lake Iseo and peaceful Lake Maggiore. Landscapes range from lakeside Grand Tour villas and lush gardens, to the Alpine scenery of the Valchiavenna and Valtellina.
Today many wineries are indeed located in converted monasteries. DOCGs in Lombardy include Franciacorta (Italy’s best bubbly), Valtellina Superiore (high altitude wines) and Sforzato di Valtellina. Some famous DOCs here include Lugana and Garda, while lesser known DOCs include Botticino (near Brescia), Moscato di Scanzo and Valcalepio (both near Bergamo), and Oltrepò Pavese (south of Pavia).
Franciacorta is well known to wine lovers for its ultra premium and much more expensive bubbly (more akin to Champagne). The Franciacorta wine zone is responsible for some of Italy’s most prestigious sparkling wines. Located along the shores of Lake Iseo, vineyards are planted in well-drained soils. by the cellarmaster. Pretty Lake Iseo is surrounded by vineyards growing Pinot Bianco, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Barbera, Nebbiolo and Merlot. Big names in the Franciacorta wine world include Ca`del Bosco, Bellavista, Cavalleri, Monterossa, Contadi Castaldi, Mosnel, and Bersi Serlini.
The sparkling wines of this area are composed primarily of the Chardonnay and Pinot bianco grape with a maximum 15% of Pinot nero allowed. The area has a Crémant style wine, known under the name Satèn, that has less CO2 than the standard sparkling wine but is more “bubbly” than a frizzante. This wine is not allowed to have any Pinot nero in the blend. The rosé sparklers are required to have a minimum 15% Pinot nero. The vintage -dated wines are required to have a minimum of 85% grapes from the indicated vintage and must be aged for at least 30 months prior to release. Non-vintage wines must be aged for at least 18 months. The Franciacorta sparklers are often a little sweeter than Champagne with the brut style having up to 20 g. per liter of sugar while brut Champagne can have no more than 15 grams.
While sparkling wine production accounts for more than half of the Franciacorta area’s production, many producers have begun focusing on make red Bordeaux- style blends and Burgundy-style Chardonnays aged in oak . Despite the frequent use of Pinot nero in the sparkling wines, a still Burgundian-style red Pinot nero is not permitted under the Terre di Franciacorta DOC.
The Piedmont wine region wraps the northwestern arch at the top of the Italian boot, and sits at the base of the Alps and Apennines. Hence its name. Some white wines are made here but reds rule the Piedmont with their world famous Barolo and Barbaresco wines. A few of the major appellations in the region are Barbaresco, Barbera, Barolo, Dolcetto, and Asti.
The Dolcetto wines are not sweet as the name could imply. Dolcetto is distinctly dry and light bodied and is frequently the first wine served in a traditional Piedmontese meal. It is easy drinking like a French Beaujolais but contains more tannin. The Barbera results in medium to full body, frutyand with good acidity to go with food. The Nebbiolo is is the grape used to make the full bodied, high tannin and alcohol Barolo and Barbaresco with a long bottle life. Piemonte is also home to a variety of local white grape specialities, which to my palate share delicacy, dryness and an aroma that often reminds me of ripe pears. Cortese is the grape of the most respected white, Gavi; the perfumed Arneis has been very fashionable as Roero Arneis
Barolo is a red Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) wine produced in the northern Italian region of Piedmont. It is made from the Nebbiolo grape and is often described as one of Italy’s greatest wines. The zone of production extends into the communes of Barolo, Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga d’Alba and parts of the communes of Cherasco, Diano d’Alba, Grinzane Cavour, La Morra, Monforte d’Alba, Novello, Roddi, Verduno, all in the province of Cuneo, south-west of Alba. Only vineyards planted in primarily calcareous–clay soils in the hills with suitable slopes and orientations are considered suitable for Barolo production. Barolo is often described as having the aromas of tar and roses, and the wines are noted for their ability to age and usually take on a rust red tinge as they mature. When subjected to aging of at least five years before release, the wine can be labeled a Riserva.
In the past Barolos often used to be very rich on tannin. It could take more than 10 years for the wine to soften up and become ready for drinking. Fermenting wine sat on the grape skins for at least three weeks extracting huge amounts of tannins and was then aged in large, wooden casks for years. In order to appeal to more modern international tastes, which preferred fruitier, earlier drinking wine styles, several producers began to cut fermentation times to a maximum of ten days and age the wine in new French oak barriques (small barrels). “Traditionalists” have argued that the wines produced in this way are not recognizable as Barolo and taste more of new oak than of wine.
The main difference in Barolo and Barbaresco is in the soils. The soil in Barbaresco is richer in nutrients and, because of this, the vines don’t produce as much tannin as found in the wines of Barolo. Both wines smell of roses, perfume and cherry sauce — and they both have a very long finish. The difference is in the taste on the mid-palate; the tannin won’t hit you quite as hard in the Barbaresco. Barolo requires wines be stored for 3 years before release, whereas Barbaresco only requires 2 years.
VINOTABLES RATINGS FOR THIS TASTING:
1. Punta Crena – Vermentino – Vigneto Isasco 2012. Min 78; Max 92; Promedio 88.3.
2. Marcarini Barolo Brunate 2008. Min 85; Max 95; Promedio 88.8.
3. Marchesi de Gresy – Barbaresco – Martinenga 2008. Min 89; Max 94; Promedio 91.3.
4. Seghesio – Barolo – La Villa 2007. Min 90; Max 96; Promedio 92.5.
El mejor Vino: Seghesio – Barolo – La Villa 2007