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~ Notable wines that leave a lasting memory

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Category Archives: Wine Regions

Tasting #39 – Sept. 22, 2014 – Wines of Abruzzo, Lazio, and Sardegna – Capri Restaurant

19 Friday Sep 2014

Posted by Cecilio Augusto Berndsen in Tasting Meetings, Wine Regions

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

Central Italy, d'Abruzzo, italy, Lazio, Merlot, Sardinia

NotablesTransparent

Tasting #39 – September 22, 2014 13:00 hs  – Wines of Abruzzo, Lazio, and Sardegna – Capri Restaurant – McLean VA

 

CONTENIDO

  • I   –    Presentadores
  • II  –    Participantes
  • III –    Los Vinos y el Menú
  • IV –    Información sobre los vinos
  • V  –    Notas regionales
  • VI –    Vinotables rating de los vinos
I.     Presentadores:
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Mario Aguilar, Orlando Mason y Cecilio-Augusto Berndsen
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II.    Participantes:  (as of September 19, 2014)
 ..
Mario Aguilar, Orlando Mason, Cecilio-Augusto Berndsen, Alfonso Sanchez, Jairo Sanchez, Juan Luis Colaiacovo y Orlando Reos.
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III.    Los Vinos y el Menú
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Los vinos que presentaremos son:
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  1.  Podere Castorani – Riserva 2009, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo
  2.  Montiano 2001 – Montefiascone, Lazio
  3.  Stellato Vermentino Pala- 2011, Sardegna
  4.  Viniola Riserva 2010 – Cannonau di Sardegna
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El Menú:
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  1. Rockfish grillé con pure de berenjena
  2. Spaghetti con ragu y salchicha – raspaduras de queso provolone
  3. Ensalada mixta
  4. Medallones de filete con zucchini, zanahoria y otras legumbres, en salsa de hongos.
IV.  Información sobre los Vinos
Wines from Italy purchased at MacArthur Liquor

1. 2009 Podere Castorani – Riserva. Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. APV 14%. from $30 to $40

Podere CastoraniPresenta un rosso rubino con riflessi violacei, con intensi sentori di frutti bosco e liquirizia e leggere note di vaniglia, cioccolata e rosa appassita. Il sapore è pieno ed avvolgente con tannini setosi ed eleganti. Retrogusto di frutta matura, tabacco e con note balsamiche.  from vinepoint.com.it

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Ha vinto i premi più importanti delle guide Duemilavini e Gambero Rosso: 5 grappoli e 3 bicchieri. Alla vista colora il calice di un intenso color rosso rubino, impenetrabile e impreziosita da nuances viola. Il profumo speziato, le note di piccoli frutti di bosco, di liquirizia, i leggeri sentori di vaniglia, cioccolato e rosa appassita caratterizzano il bouquet olfattivo di questa speciale riserva. Il palato é pieno ed avvolgente, con tannini setosi ed eleganti che rendono il retrogusto lungo e persistente che lasciano in bocca note balsamiche e di tabacco. ll Montepulciano è ottimo con piatti molto saporiti come le lasagne abruzzesi oppure con polpette e in genere, tutte le paste fresche per cui l’Abruzzo è famoso. Quello di cui bisogna tener conto in questo caso è la grande acidità, che caratterizza questo vino e che gli permette di contrastare qualsiasi sugo di pomodoro o comunque a base acida. from Saldiprivati.com

Wine-Searcher appraisal: 92/100
Participants Rating: 88/100
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2.  2001  Montiano – S. Pietro, Montefiascone, Lazio.  Merlot  APV 13.5%  or  14%, $53  € 25.

 

 

montiano_laziofrom suzieandpeter.com:      Montiano Merlot, IGT Lazio 2007, Falesco, 14% (Montecchio (Terni), Umbria; Production = 55,000 bottles) – Ubiquitous Italian winemaking consultant Riccardo Cotarella was in fine fettle, proclaiming he’s “never been a believer in boundaries as far as quality goes”, lambasting Italians for promoting varieties over terroir, and saying he particularly enjoyed this wine, “not for the profits it’s given us but for what it’s proven about areas that were previously considered inauspicious”. For this project, Merlot was grafted over Trebbiano in an area near Lake Bolzano (Cotarella: “the traditional wine here was nothing special”). And the results are impressive, an elegant red, pleasantly filigree in texture and refined in structure. Savoury, old-world style with some creamy oak and gently raisined fruit. Ripe fruit, fine sinewy tannins: in Susie’s words, a stylish rendition of Merlot that is beautifully savoury/sweet. 7.5/10

from DoctoWine.it       Falesco is a small miracle in northern Lazio, in the volcanic area near Lake Bolsena where traditionally wines were made for quantity and not quality (a local wine is Est! Est!! Est!!! that today is more famous for the history of its name than the wine). The region does not have a great variety of indigenous grapes, especially for red ones. For this reason the Cotarella brothers planted international grapes although they still grow local ones like Roscetto. Falesco is a very well-made Mediterranean Merlot. It has a fruity nose with raspberry, wild strawberry, black plums and touches of sweet spice. The mouthfeel is broad and the tannins, while present, are not aggressive. A nice, distinctly fruity finish.

Acclaim:  Wine Searcher and Wine Spectator: 90/100, Gambero Rosso 3/3

Participants rating: 88/100

 
 

3.  2011 Pala Stellato Vermentino di Sardegna,     APV 14% $31

Stellato_Vermentinofrom Wine Enthusiast:      Stellato is the quintessential seafood wine that opens with yellow flower, citrus, pear and apple aromas. There’s a grassy accent of dried hay at the back, and the wine is crisp and bright in the mouth.

from winereviewonline   (This is on the 2006 vintage) –  The first impression is an exhilarating aroma mingling both floral and mineral/wet stone fragrances, followed by a bright constellation of fruit flavors balanced by crisp acidity (Stellato translates as ‘full of stars’).  The wine can age beautifully for at least five years, taking on a more honeyed aspect as it evolves. 89  Marguerite Thomas May 8, 2007

Acclaim: Wine Enthusiast 87/100
Participants rating: 90/100
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 .

4.   2010 Cantina Dorgali ‘Viniola’ Cannonau di Sardegna Riserva.  Blend: Cannonau (Grenache) 95% and Rebsorten 5%.   Sardinia, Italy.   APV  14%     $22

 .

viniola_cannonauFrom the various Cannonau, all top quality, that were submitted this time, the Viniola stands out, a Riserva ’10 with intense notes of crisp, red fruit, but also hints of eucalyptus and myrtle. Delicate and graceful on the palate, a hint of tannin melts into the matter and blowing the wine in a satisfying finale. Three glasses. ” (Gambero Rosso 2014).

Participants rating: 88/100

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V.   –   Notas Regionales

Abruzzo

abruzzo_map (from Winesearcher.com)    Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is one of Italy’s most famous wines, and can be found on wine store shelves all around the world. This classic, well-rounded, plum-scented Italian red is made from Montepulciano grapes grown in the Abruzzo region, on Italy’s Adriatic coast. It is quite distinct from Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, which is a Sangiovese-based wine from Tuscany.The Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC title was created in 1968, and covers a vast area of eastern Abruzzo. It spans all 75 miles (120km) of Abruzzo’s coast …more

Abruzzo is a region on the east (Adriatic) coast of central Italy, situated halfway up the ‘boot’. Its immediate neighbors are Marche to the north, Lazio to the west and south-west and Molise to the s…more

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Lazio

Lazio

Lazio

 Lazio IGT is the region-wide IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica) title used for the Lazio region of western central Italy. It is in fact one of six IGTs used in Lazio, but is the by far the most widely used – largely because it covers the entire region

 

Wines produced under the Lazio IGT title may be red, white or rosé in color, and still, sparkling, sweet or dry in style. The sweet wines are even sub-categorized down into passito (from dried grapes) and vendemmia tardiva (from late-harvest grapes). Merlot-based red is the predominant style produced under this title, but there are few strong patter …more

Lazio is a region in central Italy, and home to the ancient capital city of Rome. Like many Italian wine regions, Lazio’s vine heritage is ancient. Its first inhabitants were the Etruscans, though it was the Latins who gave the area its original name Latium. The Romans brought the region into another era by improving trade and agriculture, although after the collapse of the Roman Empire the land was neglected. Only in the 1870s, when Rome became the capital of Italy,…more

 

Sardinia

 

Sardinia

Sardinia

Sardinia, 150 miles (240km) off the west coast of mainland Italy, is the second-largest island in the Mediterranean Sea. Covering roughly 9,300 square miles, it is almost three times the size of French-owned Corsica, its immediate neighbor to the north, and only marginally smaller than Italy’s other island region, …more

 

VI  –   Vinotables rating de los vinos

To be posted

 

If_I_am_missing

Recorrido de los Vinos Españoles en 2013

06 Thursday Feb 2014

Posted by Alfonso Sanchez in Member's Forum, Wine Regions, Wines

≈ Leave a comment

Por Miguel Segovia

SpainFlagMiguelSegoviaReconociendo que las diferencias climáticas y variedad de suelos hacen de la Península Ibérica un lugar privilegiado para la producción de vinos de características muy distintas, al iniciar nuestra exploración de los vinos de España, partimos nuestro recorrido dividiendo a España en seis regiones, que por sus características geográficas y climáticas, nos ayudaran a conocer sus diferentes variedades y estilos de vinos:

  1. Noreste/ Galicia.  En la costa sus albarinos y en el interior en Bierzo y Valdeorras, sus Godello y Mencia.
  2. El valle del Duero y sus vinos de Cigales, Toro y Rueda
  3.  La meseta central. Castilla la Mancha, Madrid y Valdepeñas
  4. El Valle del Ebro.  Rioja, Navarra y Cariñena
  5. Andalucía.  Su jerez y manzanilla
  6. Cataluña.  Cava, Priorato y Penedés

Estimo, apreciamos cómo los vinos españoles, han ido adquiriendo mayor calidad y que hoy día compiten en el mercado mundial, con ventaja en relación a su costo y calidad. También pudimos apreciar como los tempranillos varían de acuerdo a su procedencia, caracterizándose en tres estilos; los de Castilla, más ligeros, los de Rioja, mas balanceados, finos y de medio cuerpo, los del Duero, con más cuerpo y densos.

Como sus variedades blancas nos brindaron agradables y refrescantes vinos de verano y buenos compañeros de comida de mar.

O sea que el vino tiene que saber a la uva o uvas de que está hecho y reflejar el estilo y características del lugar en donde es hecho.

A lo que no pudimos llegar fue a la región de Cataluña, y la costa norte del Mediterráneo.

Cataluña, una región con un espíritu independiente. En donde su vinculación con el vino data del siglo IV AC cuando barcos fenicios llegaron a las costas catalanas cargadas de ánforas, de piedra para los vinos de calidad y de cerámica para los vinos corrientes, con el propósito de trocar metales por vino a los etruscos.  Posteriormente la colonización, griega, romana, musulmana deja huellas y marca su historia del vino.

Recordemos como la cultura mediterránea del vino tuvo uno de sus ejes cardinales en el Penedés (la vía augusta, aorta comercial del comercio internacional romano atraviesa el Penedés) y en donde a su vez confluyen los caminos vinarios  del Ebro, Duero, Ródano y Guadalquivir.

En la actualidad sus DOs comprenden app. 60.000 viñedos, en Cataluña, Emporda, Costa Brava, Costers del Segre, Penedés, Monsant, Priorato y Cava. Y sus vinos tinos no son principalmente tempranillo sino garnacha y cariñena, y su blancos macabeo y parellada y su estilo es espumante (cava) producido con el método champagnois

Destacan dos de sus regiones Priorato y Cava

Priorato

Junto con Rioja son las únicas dos regiones DOC (dominio de origen calificado) en España. Su nombre “Priorato” tuvo su origen en la edad media, cuando un minero tuvo un sueño, en donde las laderas empedradas se convirtieron en una escalera al cielo, por donde ascendían y descendían los ángeles.

En el siglo XI se fundó en ese sitio un monasterio cartujo, que fue conocido como “La Scalla de Dei”, y que por la importancia y relevancia de la presencia de los frailes, fue conocido como  “priorato “, derivado del español “ prior “.

Priorato es remoto y rocoso, su terroir es único y sus suelos muy pobres y sus cosechas de bajo rendimiento y gran extracto, y en donde el suelo  conformado por piedras de pizarra que parecen venas de cuarzo resquebrajadas se le conoce como “llicorelas”, los cuales imparten acentos de mineralidad a la vid.

Vinos de cuerpo, color oscuro y definido y aptos para el añejamiento.

Sus uvas la garnacha y la garnacha peluda, la cariñena, syrah y cabernet sauvignon, y en donde predomina el estilo Bordeaux. Pocos viñedos siguen la tradicional clasificación de crianza, reserva y gran reserva, lo usual es la “ vi de guarda” 18 meses en barril y 6 meses en botella.

Pocas regiones como esta tienen la capacidad para la elaboración de unos vinos excepcionales por su estructura, graduación y fuerza, que hoy día son considerados como las joyas más cotizadas del vino español

Algunos de los productores a tener presentes: Palacios, Pastrana, Jose Luis Perez, Rene Barbier, Mayol, Llicorella, Igneus, Celler Mas de les Pereres y otros.

Penedés/Cava

De espalda las montañas empinadas del macizo de Monserrat y al frente el Mediterráneo.  Su clima y suelos de magníficas condiciones para el cultivo de la vid.

Región de Posición de vanguardia en la tecnología del vino: elegantes espumosos (cava ), blancos secos y aromáticos, intensos chardonnay de crianza, rosados frutales y buenos tintos de gran prestigio y calidad.

Sus cavas producidos por el método “champanoise“ desde 1872, por la bodega Codorniu de don Jose Raventos. En sus inicios se conocía como “xampany” o sea champan.  Posteriormente al reconocerse que aunque similares no eran parecidos y por lo tanto merecían su propio nombre cava.

Cava no es un espumante que busca ser champagne. Tienen muchas coas en común como su método de elaboración y los estilos (brut, extra brut, dry, demisec ).  Pero se diferencian en que cava es un vino producto exclusivo de uvas blancas y el champagne es un maridaje de blancas y tinta.  Su terroir y clima no tienen semejanza, en su añejamiento el champagne lo hace por 15 meses y el cava por 9 meses.

Pero tal vez la diferencia más importante es la imagen que el consumidor tiene.  Se podría decir que el champagne históricamente se relaciona con momentos de gran celebración  y casi una bebida de lujo, en donde su maridaje se da con el caviar.

En España, la cava, es un vino de fiesta, de brindis de momentos para festejar y recordar, la manera perfecta de empezar una noche de verano, acompañada con un pan con tomate o un buen queso. Indispensable en un bautizo, en donde hasta el niño que se bautiza lo prueba.

Recordemos que cuando se recorren las calles de Barcelona, hay lugares de tapas y casi el mismo número de “champagnerias”

Tasting No. 33 – September 12, 2013 Valle del Ebro, Spain

13 Tuesday Aug 2013

Posted by Cecilio Augusto Berndsen in Tasting Meetings, Videos, Wine Regions, Wines

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

Ebro Valley, España, formulario, Rioja, Somontano, Spain, Vale del Ebro

cropped-notables.jpgCapri Restaurant

Valle del Ebro, que comprende las D.O Rioja, Navarra, Somontano, Campo De Borja, Cariñena, Calatayud

  1. Presenters and Participants
  2. Wines summary
  3. Menu
  4. Wines Information Detail
  5. Grapes/Varietals of this Tasting
  6. Regions of Production of the Wines
  7. Valle del Ebro: a Panoramic View (3 minutes video clip)
  8. Formulario de Desgustación, contribuición de Alfonso Sanchez (printer friendly pdf)

1. Presenters and Participants

SpainFlagPresenters of the wine for the tasting: Wilson Moreira, Carlos Paldao, and Cecilio-Augusto Berndsen, with the collaboration of Miguel Segovia

Participants: Wilson Moreira, Cecilio-Augusto Berndsen, Mario Aguilar, Jairo Sanchez, Alfonso Sanchez, Miguel Segovia, Orlando Mason, Agustín, Juan Luis Colaiacovo, Italo Mirkov  (as of August 21).

2. Wines Summary

2.1-  2012 Vinas del Vero Chardonnay and Macabeo. Somontano, Aragon, V. del Ebro. APV: 13.5%  $ 15
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2.2.  2012 Terraplen rosado Garnacha (Crianza). Nuevos Vinos. Navarra, V. Ebro. APV: 13.5, $11
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2.3.  2003 Viña Gravonia White Crianza. Viura. R. Lopes de Heredia, Rioja Alta, Rioja. APV: 12.5%,  $ 25
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2.4.   2010 Castillo de Monséran Garnacha. Cariñena, Aragon. APV: 12.5%, $ 9 Total Wine
..
2.5.   2005 Fabla Calatayud Reserva. Temparanillo 60%, Garnacha 30%, 10% Cab Sauvignon. Calatayud, Aragon, Spain. APV: 14%, $ 14 Total Wine
2.6.   2001 Baron de Ley Rioja Gran Reserva. Tempranillo. Rioja, Spain. APV: 13.5%,   $ 40 Total Wine.
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2.7.   2011 Viña Rubican Moscatel Navarra. Muscat 75%, Viura 25%, dessert fortified. Bodegas Corellanas.  Navarra, Spain. APV: 15%,  $ 11  Total Wine

ebro3. Menu  

CHEESES, OLIVES AND OTHER APETIZERS (Coordinated by Miguel Segovia)   with Vinas del Vero, Chardonnay & Viura.

CESAR’S SALAD with Terraplen, Garnacha
Mixed Organic Greens Tossed with Virgin Olive Oil & Aged Balsamic Vinegar

AGNOLOTTI    with Vina Gravonia, Macabeo
Homemade Agnolotti filled w/fresh spinach,
Imported ricotta & Parmesan Cheese in a light cream sauce

MILD ITALIAN SALCICCIA AND SPINACH  with  Castillo de Monserán, Garnacha
Mild Italian sausage served over lightly cooked spinach.

NEW YORK STEAK ON ROSEMARY SAUCE  with  Baron de Ley, Tempranillo  and  Fabla, blend Tempranillo and Garnacha
New York Steak on Rosemary sauce, pepper corn and vegetables.

DESSERT: Chef’s choice  with Viña Rubican, Moscatel and Viura

______________________________________

4. Wines Information Detail

4.1-  2012 Vinas del Vero Chardonnay and Macabeo. Somontano, Aragon, V. del Ebro. APV: 13.5%  $ 15

VinasDelVeroChadonhttp://www.decantalo.com:  Features of the wine:    Prepared by cold maceration and subsequent pressing of macabeo and chardonnay grapes from our vineyards in Salas Bajas and Barbastro.   It has an attractive bright yellow gold.  Presents a complex and intense aroma of green apple, peach, citrus and tropical fruits on a floral background. Your palate is broad and fresh thanks to its sustained acidity. This wine is full, elegant and rich in sensations.

SEBASTIANMELMOTH wrote on April 3, 2013  http://www.cellartracker.com/: Clear and shiny, pale lemon colour with presence of tear. Clean medium+ intensity developing nose with aromas of roses, lychees, ripe bananas and cinnamon. Off-dry, medium refreshing acidity, medium integrated alcohol, medium+ body and medium+ intensity aromas of lychees, ripe bananas, roses and lemon peel. Medium finish. Typical well made gewürztraminer, more spicy than other vintages, balanced but lacking some complexity, good quality. Drink now, but has potential for further ageing

4.2. 2012 Terraplen rosado Garnacha (Crianza). Nuevos Vinos. Navarra, V. Ebro. APV: 13.5, $11

terraplenroseGarnachahttp://terraplen.es y   http://www.nuevosvinos.es :    Vinificación:Fermentación en depósitos de acero inoxidable a temperatura controlada. Una vez el vino ha fermentado, permanece durante unos meses en depósito de hormigón hasta su embotellado. 100% Garnacha.

TERRAPLEN es un proyecto propio de NUEVOS VINOS. El vino ha sido diseñado para cubrir las necesidades de un mercado que busca un vino de muy buena calidad a un precio económico. El vino ha sido concebido y hecho por nuestro equipo de enólogos y diseñadores.

Es un vino hecho de la variedad Garnacha, que tan buena y ganada reputación tiene, para la elaboración de rosados de calidad. Aporta gran cantidad de fruta, buena acidez y equilibrio en boca.

Premios:  – Medalla PLATA en el Mondial Du Rosé en Cannes (Francia) 2013  – Medalla BRONCE en el IWC (Londres) 2013.

De color rosado oscuro, es brillante y limpio. En nariz es bastante aromático, con aromas de frutas rojas y fresa ácida. En boca es rico, largo y con una buena acidez. Postgusto afrutado.

4.3.  2003 Viña Gravonia White Crianza. Viura. R. Lopes de Heredia, Rioja Alta, Rioja. APV: 12.5%  $ 25

vinaGravonia_L_Herediahttp://www.lopezdeheredia.com :  Pale gold. Nose: Fresh and almost sweet. Complex and developed. Bouquet with aromas of third generation. Taste: Fruity, complex, developed and fine. 100% Viura (Macabeo) from producer vineyards. Ageing period in barrels for 4 years, 4 years, being racked twice a year and fined with fresh egg whites. Very Dry.

Characteristics of the 2003 vintage:
Clasified by The Regulating Council as GOOD. This year we were producing from 155 ha. of the 170 own by us in our 4 vineyards: Viña Tondonia, Viña Cubillo, Viña Gravonia y Viña Bosconia. We harvested a total of 951.476 Kgrs. of grapes. The yields were very high considering that this year could have been more difficult due to the heat wave that affected our vineyards from May until the beginning of September. The vines recovered thanks to the rain of the month of September. The harvest started in September 24th and lasted until October 23rd. Therefore, it was one of the longer lasted harvest in our History. This was due to the fact that we wanted the grapes to take maximum advantage of the late September rain. Our experience due to the fact that the age average of the vineyards of Viña Gravonia is quite high, it allowed the vines to survive without suffering hydric stress and made rich and round wines capable to be stored for a long time.

4.4.   2010 Castillo de Monséran Garnacha. Cariñena, Spain. APV: 12.5%, $ 9 Total Wine

Winemaker’s Notes  

Castillo_monseranEasy drinking, fruit driven wine. Herbal overtones, bursting ripe berry and plum fruit of the Garnacha. Soft and round on the palate, this wine has limited extraction and tannin to enhance youthful consumption. Lingering fruit flavors.

A great wine for tomato-based pasta dishes, cold cut platter and mixed tapas.

Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate:

The 2010 Garnacha spent 3-6 months in American oak. Aromas of rose petals and black cherries inform the nose of a grapy, ripe, easy-going red to pair with pizzas and burgers over the next 3 years. (6/ 2011)<

Wine Enthusiast:

*Best Buy* Floral berry aromas are fresh and carry only the slightest grassy, green element. The wine feels crisp and tight, with nice red plum and raspberry flavors. Mild, focused and not very hefty or thick on the finish. (12/ 2012)

Wine Spectator:

This lively red delivers the fresh flavors of ripe cherries, with hints of vanilla, fresh ginger and herbs. It’s light-bodied, with gentle tannins and good acidity. (Web Only- 2012)

4.5  2005 Fabla Calatayud Reserva. Temparanillo 60%, Garnacha 30%, 10% Cab Sauvignon. Calatayud, Aragon, Spain. APV: 14%  $ 14 Total Wine.

Elegant, Spicy, Vanilla, Full-bodied.

Fabla_CalatayudThe color is tile red with brick-red shades. The nose combines dark, ripe fruit, licorice, dried fruits, coffee, spices and vanilla. The palate is structures, tannic and meaty, with fruit, spices and tobacco to the fore, with toasted notes from the oak.

Fabla:

The wines of Fabla hail from the up-and-coming Calatayud region of Spain which enjoys a growing reputation for producing world-class Garnacha (Granache). Produced from hand-harvested grapes from high-elevation vineyards, these wines show off the wonderful character of the region’s old-vine fruit. Since Calatayud is not as well known as Spain’s Rioja or Ribera del Duero areas, the wines offer amazing value. The Fabla wines are imported by Laurent Terrison, who made his reputation by finding great wines from the lesser known regions of France’s Rhône Valley.

4.6. 2001 Baron de Ley Rioja Gran Reserva. Tempranillo. Rioja, Spain. APV: 13.5%   $ 40 Total Wine

Wine Advocate -93-  “It reveals beautiful, nearly ethereal aromatics from baron_deLey_riojaits extended stay in barrel and bottle. Smoke, Asian spices, incense, violets, black cherry, and blackberry notes are followed by a round, silky wine of finesse.”

International Wine & Spirit Competition 2010: Gold (Best In Class):
Dark red core colour with brushes of brick and orange. A faint scent of rose, then prune and smoked meats. The palate has plenty of grip and tension, with supple tannins and excellent balance, persistence and elegance on the long finish. Is drinking very well but still has promise.
Wine-Searcher  Score: 88. When to drink: 2009 to 2020
The Wine-Searcher score of 88/100 is calculated from the following wine critic scores:

Wine & Spirits Magazine 92/100 drink  2009 to 2014
Stephen Tanzer            91/100
Wine Spectator            91/100
CellarTracker               89/100 (105 notes from 72 users )
Wine Enthusiast           84/100
Jancis Robinson           16.5/20
El Mundo Vino             14.5/20

4.7.  2011 Viña Rubican Moscatel Navarra. Muscat 75%, Viura 25%, dessert fortified. Bodegas Corellanas.  Navarra, Spain. APV: 15%,  $ 11  Total Wine

Bodegas Corellanas note:
Vina_Rubcan_Moscatel75% petit grain Moscatel and 25% viura. Following a temperature controlled maceration, the slow fermentation process begins and eventually ends at a low temperature. The process leaves behind natural residual sugars which give the wine a personality distinguishing it from other sweet wine

It is a white wine with bright golden tones, an intense Moscatel bouquet with fruity and flowery overtones and an agreeable smooth taste which caresses the palate. It has a lasting flavour and the aftertaste provides a subtle reminder of the Moscatel sweetness, as well as the Viura freshness, making it a well-balanced wine.

totalwine.com:   Sweet, Orange, Honey, Medium-bodied

A sweet wine by nature with the perfect balance of acidity, this 100% Moscatel from Spain’s northern Navarra region offers an aromatic nose and matching palate of honey, orange and floral nuances. A perfect after dinner treat.

5. Grapes/Varietals of this Tasting

5.1.  Viura (Macabeo):  The synonym used in the Spanish DO of Rioja for Macabeo, which is the most popular grape of northen Spain. High in production, the Macabeo takes well to hot and dry regions. It also buds late which makes it less likely to be harmed by frost. Together with the varietals Parellada and Xarel-lo it is used in the production of the sparkling Spanish wine Cava. Both still and sparkling wines from the Macabeo are dry, medium in acidity, and have notes of delicate wildflowers and bitter almonds. Macabeo is best consumed young.

Besides Cava the best examples of Macabeo come from Rioja, where it is known as Viura, and now makes up 90% of the still white wine production in that area. It can also be found in large quantities in southern France, particularly in the Languedoc area where it is usually blended with Grenache Blanc. winegeeks.com

5.2. Chadornay:

Flavor Notes: Noted for rich, buttery flavor, Peach, Pear, Apple, and tropical fruit.

Facts of note: Chardonnay grapes are the most popular green-skinned grape in making white wine. Produced in almost every wine region in the world. Chardonnay is a medium producing grape with average sized clusters and berries. It ripens earlier than most of the red varieties which helps it be less susceptible to late rains and rot. A favorite variety for producing champagne.

DESCRIPTION: Produced in almost every wine region in the world, Chardonnay is truly a special variety that is considered one of the most complex of White varieties. Rich in fruit flavors such as Peach, Pear, Apple, and some Tropical fruit, it is a treat to get a good bottle of Chardonnay and enjoy it by itself or with a good meal.

Many Chardonnays are aged in Oak barrels which impart a layer of complexity to the finished wine. Chardonnays tend to be consumed within 3 to 4 years after being made. It is not a wine for long aging.   http://www.groworganic.com

5.3. Tempranillo:

Arguably the most famous of Spain’s native grapes, is a vibrant, aromatic varietal that offers spicy, red fruit aromas and flavors. The grape’s name translates to “little early one,” a moniker that references fruit’s early ripening tendency– Tempranillo thrives even with a short growing season.

The varietal is at its best in top Riojas, where oak aging is employed to generate increased complexity and harmony. From the best sites, these wines can be remarkably concentrated with great aging potential. New wines from this region are darker, and more robust, with more dynamic primary fruit flavors than traditionally styled examples. These wines seem to reflect the influence of Spain’s other key region for Tempranillo.    http://www.wineaccess.com/wine/grape/tempranillo

5.4. Cabernet Sauvignon:

http://wine.about.com/     Cabernet Sauvignon, often referred to as the “King of Red Wine Grapes,” originally from Bordeaux, with a substantial foothold in California’s wine races, has the privilege of being the world’s most sought after red wine. Cabernet Sauvignon grapes tend to favor warmer climates and are often an ideal wine for aging, with 5-10 years being optimal for the maturation process to peak. Because Cabs take a bit longer to reach maturation, allowing their flavors to mellow, they are ideal candidates for blending with other grapes, primarily Merlot. This blending softens the Cabernet, adding appealing fruit tones, without sacrificing its innate character.

Flavor Profile

Cabs range from medium-bodied to full-bodied and are characterized by their high tannin content which serves to provide structure and intrigue while supporting the rich fruit characteristics. The flavor profile includes plum, cherry, blackberry, blueberry, warm spice, vanilla, tobacco and sometimes leather aromas and or flavors.

5.5. Grenache:  The unmistakable candied fruit roll-up and cinnamon flavor is what gives Grenache away to expert blind tasters. It has a medium to full weight in taste, but has a deceptively lighter color and is semi-transulcent. Depending on where it’s grown, Grenache often lets off strong smells of orange rinds and ruby-red grapefruit. When Grenache is grown in Old World regions such as Côtes du Rhône and Sardinia, it can have herbal notes of dried oregano and tobacco. winefolly.com

5.6. Muscat:  (Muscatel, Moscatel)    Muscat, with its strong and distinctive perfume, was probably one of the first grape varieties to be identified and cultivated, probably in Greece. The Romans likely brought the first vines to Southern France before the 1300s, where it thrived and gained fame and name around the Languedoc village of Frontignan and dominated the Roussillonuntil the nineteenth century. It may be the most ancient known variety, since it is the first documented variety in France’s Alsace, Italy’s Piedmont, and as early as the 1100s in Germany.  

Each muscat produces, with subtle variation, wines with the distinct, intense, aromatic, rosy-sweet, and easily-recognized scent of muscat and, unusual for most wine varieties, that actually taste like grapes. The muscat family has two main branches, one based on Muscat Blanc, one on Muscat Alexandria. Of over twenty identified distinct varieties of the muscat grape, the most desirable for wine due to its powerful aromatic intensity is Muscat Blanc, known as Muscat de Frontignan in France and Moscato di Canelli in Italy.   http://www.winepros.org/wine101/grape_profiles/muscat.htm

6.    PRODUCTION REGIONS

Rioja

riojaRioja is  the most famous wine region in Spain, lies mostly within the autonomous community ofLa Rioja in the north of the country. The region is thought to derive its name from the OjaRiver (el Rio Oja), a tributary of the Ebro. Rioja covers a stretch of land 60 miles (100 kilometers) long and 25 miles (40 kilometers) wide that straddles both banks (although predominantly the south) of the eastward-flowing Ebro and encompasses parts of the Alavaprovince of the País Vasco (Basque Country) and Navarra regions. The designation’sla_rioja_map boundaries are naturally demarcated by the local geography: the Sierra de la Demandamountain range in the south and the Sierra de Cantabria range to the north and west. These features combine to create the enviable grape-growing conditions of Rioja. The region’s red wines, based on Tempranillo, have cemented its place among Europe’s finest designations and firmly secured Spain’s position on the world’s wine map.

Rioja was awarded DO (Denominación de Origen) status in 1925, making it the first in the country to receive this. In 1991, it was upgraded to the highest status, DOCa (Denominación de Origen Calificada). Again it was the first designation in Spain to obtain it, due to its proven record in consistently producing top-quality wines.       more http://www.wine-searcher.com/regions-rioja

This short clip gives a good view of the Rioja DO. Can you afford 2:57 minutes?


Navarra  (Navarre)

A key characteristic of the D.O. Navarra area is the extraordinary diversity of its climate and landscape wich spread across more than 100 kilometres lying between the area around Pamplona in the north and the Ebro river plain to the south.

The fact is that Navarra enjoys an exceptional location, one which is practically unique in the Iberian Peninsula and is marked by thec onfluence of the Atlantic, Continental and Mediterranean climates. The proximity of the Bay of Biscay, the influence of the Pyrenees and the temperate incluence of the Ebro valley are all key factors in giving Navarra its unique range different climates.

These climatic differences mark the Navarran landscape, where more than 11,700 hectares dedicated to the Designation of Origin are distributed across the different ecosystems and crop growing conditions: slopes; river plains; plateaux; and plains. The D.O. is divided into 5 distinct wine-making areas: Baja Montaña, Valdizarbe, Tierra Estella, Ribera Alta and Ribera Baja.  more  http://www.navarrawine.com/en/do_navarre/do-navarre.aspx

Check out these videos clips suggested  by J.Luis Colaiacovo. The first one is just 3 minutes long and gives a birds view of the vineyards of Navarra.

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This one shows architectural aspects of Navarra. 

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Somontano

La denominación de origen Somontano fue creada en 1984 y desde entonces ha evolucionado de forma positiva a través del campo de acción del consejo regulador,la aparición de nuevas marcas de vinos,la instalación de nuevas bodegas y el trabajo profesionalizado de los viticultores. Todo ello ha potenciado la consolidación y prestigio de esta zona vitivinícola.

mapa-somontano-bigEl informe “Los Vinos de Aragón. Una oportunidad de mercado” de AC Nielsen, exponía que “Somontano” había liderado en Aragón el proceso de innovación total de la producción y comercialización de vinos “creando una imagen totalmente nueva a través de nuevas variedades”. Ésta es otra de las claves que explica el crecimiento de estos vinos del alto Aragón. Paralelamente, la apuesta y priorización de la calidad de los vinos y la estabilidad de los precios cierran la fórmula matemática que explica la positiva trayectoria de esta denominación de origen.    more  http://dosomontano.com/

Campo de Borja

Campo de Borja Wine
Campo de Borja is a DO wine zone in Aragon, northern Spain. This extremely arid area is situated just south of the Ebro River and north of La Huecha River, and borders the southern stretches of the Navarra wine region. It is centered on Borja, a small town laden with history, having been founded in 5 BC by the Celtiberians (tribes thought to be of mixed Iberian and Celtic stock). The Borgia family, who came to prominence in Italy during the Renaissance and produced two Popes, were of Borjan origin. The campo in the DO’s name means ‘field’ or ‘land’.

Campo de Borja attained DO status in 1980 and the designation is administered by a local Consejo Regulador (wine authority).

Winemaking here dates back to Roman times, and was continued by Cistercian monks at the foot of the imposing Sierra de Moncayo mountain range.

As in the other wine regions of Aragon, Garnacha reigns supreme here. With an average age of 30 to 50 years, the low-yielding vines in Campo de Borja are treasured for producing some of the best examples of Garnacha wines: concentrated, powerful and very aromatic. It’s no wonder some locals refer to the region is El Imperio de la Garnacha (the Empire of Garnacha).  more  http://www.wine-searcher.com/regions-campo+de+borja

Cariñena

Cariñena is a Spanish Denominación de Origen (DO) for wines located in Cariñena, Aragón, Spain. It is one of the oldest protected growing areas in Europe, the DO having been created in 1932. Cariñena vineyards are located near the centre of Aragón, about 50 km southwest of Zaragoza, on a plateau known as the Campo de Cariñena. The lower vineyards lie at an altitude of 400 m, rising to 800 m as they approach the Sierra de la Virgen mountains. To the west they border on the Calatayud (DO).

The 1990s was a period of rapid development due partly to the numerous mergers of small wineries and cooperatives, and to the adaptation of the wines produced to a more modern palette. The traditional robust, high alcohol content wines are still produced for local consumption, but now fruitier, lighter and well balanced wines are also produced in response to the tastes and preferences of the average export consumer. Exports have quadrupled since 1995 and a new research centre is helping to improve production.

The region is the acknowledged source of the French Carignan grape, which is also grown in Italy, California and several other New Worldregions. The grape is still widely grown in Cariñena, where it tends to be better-known as Mazuelo.  more   http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cari%C3%B1ena_(DO)

Calatayud

The Calatayud wine region is situated in the province of Zaragoza and covers an area of 5,600 hectares. The Calatayud wine region consists of 15 vineyards (Bodegas), which produce 14 millon liter of wine annually.

It is situated in the Province of Zarazoga. With an area of 5,600 ha of wine it produces 14 million liters of wine.

Wine varieties:

Red: Garnacha Tinta, Tempranillo, Mazuela, Monastrell, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot.

White: Macabeo, Malvasia, Moscatel de Alejandria, Garnacha Blanca and Chardonnay.more  http://www.espavino.com/spain_wine_region/wines_calatayud.php

7.  Valle del Ebro: a Panoramic View (3 minutes video clip)

Valle del Ebro vistas del Valle en medio el Ebro al fondo los Pirineos.

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8. Formulario  de  Degustación

preparado por Alfonso Sanchez

Haga click aqui >>>    FormDegustaciónS_33     <<< abre en una nueva pantalla

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Tasting 31 – July 11, 2013, Capri Restaurant – German Wines

09 Tuesday Jul 2013

Posted by Cecilio Augusto Berndsen in Tasting Meetings, Wine Regions

≈ Leave a comment

cropped-notables.jpgTasting 31 July 11, 2013, 12:30      Capri Restaurant – German Wines

Contents of this post:

  • I  – Presenters and Participants
  • II – Introduction
  • III- Wines for this Tasting, by Peter Scherer
  • IV – German Wine Varieties, by Peter Scherer
  • V  – Vinos da Alemania, by Miguel Segovia

I  ♦  Presenters and Participants

Presenters: Miguel Segovia and Peter Scherer

Participants: Hugo Benito, Cecilio Ausuto Berndsen, Peter Scherer, Italo Mirkov, Jairo Sanchez, Wilson Moreira, Orlando Reos, Alfonso Sanchez, Mario Aguilar, Miguel Segovia and Carlos Algandona.

II  ♦  Introduction 

Miguel Segovia that partnered with Peter Scherer wrote:

En años recientes los vinos alemanes fueron perdiendo prestigio al aumentar su producción de vinos dulces de baja calidad y baratos, sin embargo, en los últimos anos MiguelSegovialos productores alemanes han venido rescatando la tradicional  buena calidad de sus vinos, para la satisfacción de los aficionados al buen vino como son los miembros del Grupo Notables.

Asi que confirmo que conjuntamente con Peter Secher, se han seleccionado los vinos y el menú correspondiente para nuestra degustación en el Capri Restaurant 11 de julio, a la  1 pm.

To this Peter Scherer complemented:

 Estimados Notables, 

Peter SchererThe honorable Miguel Segóvia has made a valiant statement: the German wines aren’t as bad as their reputation. Well, we will see — taste. Indeed, there has been a determined drive among German wine makers towards higher quality wines with distinct styles since the mid-nineties.  The dreadful ubiquitous Liebfraumilch of yore is no longer synonymous with mediocre German wine.

While the German Rieslings have been gaining in credibility, the German Reds have languished in obscurity. Undeservedly so, as it became evident in the recent international blind Pinot Noirs tasting in London. Thanks to our President for calling attention to this path breaking event.  The 10 most important Pinot Noir growing regions competed after a pre-tasting of some 600 wines. Germany placed seven in the top ten wines selected. 

I have the list of the German winners but it is impossible to get individual bottles in DC. It is a sad fact, that I only found a single German Pinot Noir with some credibility among the Washington wine stores. Also, I could not get a Sylvaner, which I consider perhaps the most underrated grape in Germany.

In view of obvious constraints, both in availability and price, I opted against a comparison of Rieslings from the leading territories in favor of selecting 

  • a) a flight of Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc), Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris) and Spaetburgunder (Pinot Noir), which will allow to assess mutations of the same basic grape against each other;
  • b) two Mosel Rieslings of different categories (ripeness of grapes, a key grading criteria in Germany) but from the same winery, which will allow to assess whether there is reason behind the German labeling system; and
  • c) A vintage Riesling from Franken from my collection. It will allow assessing, partially, the aging effects in a Riesling.

This arrangement counts with the blessing of Miguel.

In recognition of the Notables’ audacity to submit to a tasting of German wines, I have capped the aggregate cost for the participants at $120.

Following is the sequence of wine presentations, which Miguel and I determined after reviewing menu possibilities.

I have prepared extensive notes on characteristics of German wine production, which I will distribute and post in this blog.

Without further ado, PROSIT. 

III  ♦  WINES FOR TASTING

1.     Iphoefer Kronsberg, Riesling Kabinett, Trocken, Franken, 1989, APV 11,0%

a.     Tasting Notes: A robust wine, fruity and full bodied yet dry, with a subtle acidity cut and aging potential.

b.     Winery: The Estate figures among the best known and largest private wineries in Franken. In operation since 1630, the foundation of the present operations was laid after the devastation of the II. World War and infestations from a wine pest.

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2.     Gut Hermannsberg – Pinot Blanc (Weissburgunder),  Nahe, 2011, Qualitaetswein, Trocken APV.13.0%; $19.99

a.     Tasting Notes: Juicy with fresh minerality and delicate structure but spicy stylistics, the result of unclear fermenting of some mush.

b.     Winery: Gut Hermannsberg was once praised by the renowned British wine writer Hugh Johnson as perhaps the best vineyard in Germany. Risen from the ashes of the former Royal Prussian Weinbaudomäne” estate administration, it is now back in the top ten in the region. There exclusively white wines, once almost moselanic slim, are now rather powerful and full-bodied, almost Palatine.

3.     Ihringer Winkelberg — Dr. Heger; Pinot Gris (Grauburgunder), Baden, 2007, GC, APV. 13.5%, $36.99
Dr_Hegera.     Tasting Notes: n.a.

b.     Winery: The Dr. Heger wine estate was established in 1935. It is located in the Southern foothills of the Kaiserstuhl region in the South-Western tip of Germany. It is considered the warmest area in Germany with almost subtropical climate. The decomposed volcanic stone with good ventilation on steep slopes creates characteristic minerality of these elegant and delicate wines. High quality is enhanced by reduced yields and careful hand harvesting.

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4.      Dr. Heidemanns – Riesling, Mosel, 2011, Qualitaetswein, APV. 9.5%, $10.99

Dr_Heidemanns_Mosel

a.     Tasting Notes: Distinctive flair. Powerful and dry with strong aromas.  Distinctive crispness supports pleasant acidity. Mineral notes.

b. Winery: Please see next wine.

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5.  Dr. Heidemanns Bernkastel, Kabinett, Riesling, Mosel, 2011, Alc. 8.5%

Dr_Heidem_Reisl_Kabinett

a)     Tasting Notes: Plenty of plushness spicy notes mingle with cream, baked peach and dried apricot flavor. Finishes pure, with ripe citrus notes that show hints of ginger snap.

b)     Winery: The vineyards of Weingut Dr. Heidemann rank among the top Middle Mosel Estates with a reputation for offering only the highest quality Rieslings. The Estate first mentioned in 1156, is now headed by a Ph.D. in agricultural sciences. His first name: Peter. Don’t blame the Germans for being narrow minded. Peter went to the Napa Valley to learn what is cooking and used his learnings to apply modern production technologies in the Estate of his family.

6.     Blue Slate– Meyer-Näkel, Pinot Noire (Spaetburgunder), Ahr, 2011. Qualitaetswein, APV. 14.0%;   $44.99
Meyer_Nakela)     Tasting Notes: Fruity with elegant balance and moderate tannins. Reportedly praised buy Jancis Robinson.

b)     Winery: The Meyer-Näkel winery deliberately lowers yields by using selective handpicking of grapes from old vines.  Slate soils and Mediterranean climate create subtle fruit flavors and aging potential.

MEMO ITEM: In reading the above, take account of Scherer’s 50:50 law of taste notes — 50% of the universe of attributions can be applied randomly to 50% of all wines tasted.

IV  ♦ GERMAN WINE VARIETIES 

Weisser Burgunder (Pinot Blanc)

O   Pinot Blanc is a point genetic mutation of Pinot noir. Pinot noir is genetically unstable and will occasionally experience a point mutation in which a vine bears all black fruit except for one cane, which produces white fruit. In Germany, as in Alsace and Italy, the wine produced from this grape is a full-bodied white. Somewhat confusingly, the designation “Pinot blanc” for Alsace AOC wine does not necessarily mean that the wine is varietally pure Pinot Blanc. Rather, the designation means that it is a white wine made from Pinot varieties.

O   In Alsace, the “Pinot blanc” grape is often blended with Auxerrois grapes, in order to give it the typical full bodied Alsatian flavor with spicy and smoky character and moderate acidity. No such blending in In Germany.  Weißer Burgunder or Weißburgunder is a pure Pinot grape derivative, produced mainly in Baden and Palatinate It can be either dry or sweet. It is.

O   It offers fruity aromas, often of apple, citrus fruit, and exhibits floral characteristics, minerality and generally distinct acidity. Weissburgunder are usually made for immediate consumption.

  • Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris)

O   Grauburgunder is a white wine grape variety. A  mutant clone of the Pinot noir grape, it has a grayish-blue fruit, accounting for its name (gris meaning “grey” in French) but the grape can have a brownish pink to black and even white appearance. The word pinot, meaning “pine cone” in French, could have been given to it because the grapes grow in small pine cone-shaped clusters. The wines produced from this grape vary in color from a deep golden yellow to copper and even a light shade of pink.

O   The clone of Pinot Gris grown is known in in Italy as Pinot grigio. However, there are considerable differences between Pinot Grigio and Pinot Gris/ Grauburgunder — they are separately derived as multiple clones of both Gris and Grigio. The grapes are different but they are closely related. Consider it similar to Cabernet Sauvignon and Cab Franc.

O   Until the 18th and 19th century, the grape was a popular planting in Burgundy and Champagne but poor yields and unreliable crops caused the grape to fall out of favor in those areas. The same fate nearly occurred in Germany, but vine breeders in the early 20th century were able to develop clonal varieties that would produce a more consistent and reliable crop.

O   Flavors and aromas vary greatly from region to region, and from style to style, but commonly feature notes of pears, apples, stone fruit, sweet spices and even a hint of smoke, or even wet wool according to one astute observer.  Most winemakers avoid obvious oak character in     their Pinot Gris, but some use older barrels (which leave less oak flavor in the wine) for fermentation. For weightier, more complex styles of Pinot Gris, lees contact and partial malolactic fermentation are commonly used. Sweet late harvest versions wines are common.

O   Pinot Gris grapes are naturally low in acidity and high in sugars, so the finest Pinot Gris wines come from the world’s cooler viticultural regions; those from warmer climates tend to lack acidity and structure and can be overbearingly alcoholic. A person with connections to the Holy Sea declared that “God made Cabernet Sauvignon whereas the devil made Pinot noir. It is much less tolerant of hard, windy, hot and dry, harsh vineyard conditions than the likes of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, or Grenache.

O   Europe’s showcase examples come from vineyards on either side of the Rhine River, from Baden and Pfalz in Germany and particularly Alsace in France. In these regions, the wines are made in varying levels of sweetness, from bone dry to lusciously sweet; a Pinot Gris Selection de Grains Nobles from Alsace is one of the sweetest, most intensely flavored wines on Earth.

  • Spaetburgunder (Pinot Noir)

germanywineO   Pinot Noir may one of the toughest grape to grow, but the effort is often well worth the constant care and investment. It is a fickle grape that demands optimum growing conditions, opting for warm days consistently supported by cool evenings. As for style, Pinot Noir is typically a lighter-medium bodied, fruit-forward red wine. Pinot Noir is Burgundy’s most famous noble grape. It is known as “Red Burgundy” – the source of the German name ‘Spaetburgunder’, in much of the world.

O   Spaetburgunder is a dry, red wine that typically exhibits fruit-forward character with strawberry, cherry, raspberry and blackberry nuances. For generalities, earth-driven layers with herbal, mushroom, leather, and game-like qualities are common characteristics. Connoisseurs have detected warm spice notes in the Pinot Noir palate profile, often in the form of cinnamon, clove and smoky, tobacco nuanced – not to forget consistent acidity, subtle, silky tannins and lighter-bodied style. Spaetburgunder (Pinot Noire) is considered by many to be one of the world’s most versatile food wines.

o   For the high-fliers from a master sommelier (I am not making this up) : the most romantic of wines, with so voluptuous a perfume, so sweet an edge, and so powerful a punch that, like falling in love, they make the blood run hot and the soul wax embarrassingly poetic.

  • Riesling

O   Riesling is one of the noble grape varieties. It originated in Germany’s Rhein and Mosel river valleys. It was here that this white grape gained its predominant foothold in today’s German modern white wine market. Riesling wines are usually varietally pure and are seldom oaked. A Riesling wine can span a broad range of styles, being produced in both dry to sweet variations as well as light to full-bodied. Riesling is one of the wine world’s “new” sweethearts. Its food pairing versatility and refreshing palate appeal are among the top reasons for this renewed love affair. While enjoying double-digit market growth and culinary affections worldwide,

O   Riesling is estimated to be only the world’s 20th most grown variety. It is ranked with the more popular Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc among the top three white wine varieties for quality.

O   Memo item: The higher quality (Auslese, Trockenbeerauslese, Eiswein) German Riesling categories are comparable to the Sauterns, a blend of Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, and Muscadelle, from the Sauternais region of the Graves section in Bordeaux. Their characteristic, as well as that of the late harvest German Rieslings are affected by noble rot (Botrytis cinerea). It causes the grapes to become partially raisined, resulting in concentrated and distinctively flavored wines. Eisweins like Sauternes are some of longest-lived wines, with premium examples from exceptional vintages properly kept having the potential to age well even beyond 100 years. Sauternes typically Sauternes, especially the Premier Cru Supérieur estate Château d’Yquem, can be very expensive, due largely to the very high cost of production and harvest risks from climate vagaries. German Trockenbeerauslese or Eiswein aren’t cheap either but they give the Sauterns a run for their money. The best way to find out is to try.

 

V  ♦ Vinos de Alemania

por Miguel Segovia  

Alemania es uno de los países productores de vino más nórdico de Europa.  Lo que hace que su clima sea más frio en casi todo su territorio. Esto ocasiona que las uvas no maduren adecuadamente, lo cual es negativo para las cepas tintas, como consecuencia la mayoría de sus vinos son blancos y en donde predomina la uva riesling.

La industria de vinos en Alemania es un poco diferente al resto de Europa, como ya señalamos, la mayoría de sus vinos son blancos y muchos de ellos tienen considerable azúcar residual y rara vez se pasan por madera en su añejamiento. Otra característica es su bajo contenido alcohólico.

Como la mayoría de los países de Europa, fueron los romanos quienes llevaron las primeras vides a sus tierras. Estas se sembraron en las márgenes de los ríos Rhine, Mosela, Nahe, Ruwer y el Ahr.  Hoy día es donde se encuentran las principales regiones de producción. Inclusive, hay una anécdota del siglo viii, en la que cita a Carlomagno, cuando ordena que se plante la vid en la rivera opuesta, del único trayecto del Rhin en sentido este/oeste, el Rheingau.

El país, como señalamos, al estar tan al norte, tiene un clima frio, lo que dificulta que las uvas maduren, por eso la mayoría de las zonas vinícolas están al sur del país, donde predomina un clima un poco más benigno. Muchos de los viñedos se encuentran en las laderas de los ríos, con motivo de maximizar la exposición al sol de las vides. Esto también ha permitido aprovechar estos panoramas espectaculares para la industria  turística.

Los ríos tienen efectos significativos para moderar las temperaturas. El suelo es pizarra para absorber el calor del sol y para conservarlo durante la noche. Los sitios son a menudo extremadamente escarpados, así que cogen la mayoría de la luz del sol, pero son difíciles de cosechar mecánicamente, lo que incrementa sus costos.  Los viñedos son extremadamente pequeños comparados con otros países, esto hace que la lista de vinos que se producen sea larga y compleja, de una producción tan limitada.

Alemania produce los vinos en muchos estilos, blancos secos, semidulces, dulces y “late harvest”, vinos rose, vinos tintos y vinos espumosos.

Históricamente los vinos predominantes han sido los blancos y entre ellos, los producidos de la uva riesling. Muchos de sus vinos semidulces son de exportación a los mercados de Inglaterra, Estados Unidos y los Países Bajos (como por ejemplo el Liebfraumilch).

El vino tinto ha sido siempre difícil de producir en el clima alemán, y en el pasado era generalmente de color claro más cercano al rose o a los vinos rojos de Alsacia.  No obstante recientemente se producen con más cuerpo e intensidad, buena fruta y color más definido, envejecidos en barrica y principalmente de la uva Spatburgunder (Pinot Noir).

MoselLas etiquetas del vino no han contribuido a que el consumidor adquiera un claro conocimiento del vino que compra.  De acuerdo a la actual ley del vino alemán que data de 1971,  ordena no solo identificar su procedencia, región, viñedo, productor, variedad de uva y los distintos grados y aspectos de su clasificación. Que para empezar no es la tradicional de acuerdo a su calidad, sino que va de acuerdo al grado de maduración de la uva al momento de la cosecha.

El modelo que se sigue en la misma no es el tradicional francés o aun el del nuevo mundo, sino que es propio. En su mayoría aun utilizan letra gótica, y para los que hablamos español, al no ser el alemán una lengua latina, no existe semejanza entre las palabras alemanas y las del castellano.

Por ejemplo:

Kabinet (nivel más bajo de azúcar)

Tracken (nivel más alto de azúcar)

Spatlese (cosechado tardíamente)

Qwp (vinos de calidad)

Qmp (vinos de calidad con atributos especiales)

Eiswei (vino de hielo)

Rhein

Los vinos Kabinett, Spatlese y Auslese, pueden ser secos, semidulces o dulces, salvo que indiquen troken, que significa  (seco), o halbtrocken (semis seco), lamentablemente estas palabras no siempre aparecen en la etiqueta por lo que suele ser difícil saber que tan dulce es un vino antes de probarlos.

Una indicación general del grado de dulzura es el nivel de alcohol, un grado alcohólico por debajo de 9% puede indicar cierto grado de dulzor, por el azúcar residual que debe haber quedado sin fermentar.

Las uvas comunes del vino blanco son:

Riesling, que cubre la mayoría del área del viñedo alemán. Variedad aromática con un alto nivel de acidez que se puede utilizar para los vinos secos, semidulces, dulces y espumosos. La desventaja de la riesling es que tarda 130 días para madurar y en anos marginales, la cosecha de Riesling tiende a ser pobre.

El Müller-Thurgau, (cruce de Rieslling y Silvaner) uva alternativa a riesling, requiere solo 100 días para madurar, se pude plantar en más sitios, y es de un rendimiento más alto. Tiene un sabor más neutral (es la utilizada en el Liebfraumilch), su reputación ha recibido un golpe junto con esa variedad de vino. El Silvaner, variedad bastante neutral, produce vinos secos con un dejo terroso y rustico.

Otras variedades son la Gewurztraminer, la Grauer Burgunder (Pinot Gris) y la Weisser Burgunder (Pinot Blanco).

.o0o.o0o.o0o.

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Tasting No. 27 – February 14, 2013 – Ribera del Duero Valley

11 Monday Feb 2013

Posted by Cecilio Augusto Berndsen in Tasting Meetings, Varietals, Wine Regions, Wines

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Tags

Castilla y Leon, Cigales, España, Ribera de Duero, Ribera del Duero, Rueda, Spain, Tempranillo, Toto, Valle del Duero

NotablesTransparent

 

Capri Ristorante

Contents of this Post:

  1. Presenters and Participants
  2. Menu
  3. Wines Description
  4. Wine Producing Regions (Rueda, Toto, R. Duero and Cigales)

1.   Presenters and Participants

La primera cata de vinos españoles tendrá lugar el 14 de febrero en el Capri a las 12:30.   Los vinos a degustar seán del Valle del rio Duero, Castilla Y León, que comprende  las D.O Ribera Del Duero, Cigales, Rueda, Toro Los seleccionadores y presentadores son Juan Luis, Hugo y Jairo.

J.L. Colaiacovo

J.L. Colaiacovo

HugoBenito

Hugo Benito

Jairo Sanchez

Jairo Sanchez

‘”’

”””

””

””

Han confirmado su participación: Juan Luis Colaiacovo, Jairo Sanchez, Cecilio Augusto Berndsen, Wilson Moreira, Orlando Mason, Italo Mirkov, Carlos Paldao, Mario Aguilar, Agustín Riveros, Miguel Segovia, Hugo Benito, Peter Scherer y Alfonso Sanchez. February 8, 2013.

2. Menu:
1) ENSALADA DE MARISCOS SOBRE ARÚGULA

2) POTAJE DE JUDÍAS BLANCAS, GARBANZOS Y CHORIZO

3) LOMITO DE CERDO EN SALSA DE CASIS Y FRAMBUESA

4) CORDERO EN SALSA DE ROMERO.

5) POSTRE A SELECCIÓN INDIVIDUAL, ( MENÚ DEL RESTAURANTE CAPRI)

3. Wines Information:  All Wines from Spain

3.1.           2011 Palacio de Bornos Verdejo. Bodega Palacio de Bornos. Rueda. APV:. 13.5% $ 14.99

Palacio de Bornos VerdejoStephen Tanzer 89 points. Wine Enthusiast 90 points.

A fresh white wine made from the Spanish grape Verdejo with crisp Sauvignon Blanc-like aromas given an intriguing herby lift. Cool fermentation techniques extract the maximum fruit intensity from the flavour some grapes, and careful handling ensures good acidity levels are retained throughout. Try with Thai dishes. from: http://www.waitrosedirect.com

The Sanz family is one of Rueda’s best known producers, and their wines offer a very good price-quality ratio. Their Verdejo is pleasant, fresh and light, a quality white wine ideal for everyday drinking and perfect for keeping you cool during the summer! From http://www.vinissimus.com

” With the best Verdejos we expecto both texture and complexity along with a vibrant, lemony citrus character and a healthy doses of pear. With Bornos two fun things happen as well: it exhibits little of the grassy notes found in some verdejos and a finish almost tangible pear-skin note”
This is a fresh white wine with a crisp acidity. It is a good example of Verdejo from DO Rueda.

This winery was founded in 1870 in the town of La Seca. It expanded nationally and internationally in the XX century.

In 1976 the fifth generation of the Sanz family started the construction of a new winery in Rueda and begin the mos recent history of Palacion de Bornos.
Rueda soil and climate. Gravely, permiting great ventilation and drainage.
Continental climate with low rainfall.

”
3.2.    2009  Senorio del Tallar  Vendimia Seleccionada. Tempranillo. Bodega Milagrosa.  Ribera del Duero, Castilla y León.  APV 14.8 %   $ 17.99

” Aromas of pain grille, mineral, tapenade. Asian spices, and assorted black fruits lead to a dense, plush, full flavored wine that is nice proportioned and lengthy”. Wine Advocate. 93 points.

Ribera del Duero, Spain- Aromas of pain grille, mineral, tapenade, Asian spices, and assorted black fruits lead to a well balanced, full-bodied wine with a lengthy finish. Enjoy with grilled meats.

http://evewine101.com/  Grape Characteristics: Intense purple color, made from vines between 50 and 70 years old, aged in Hungarian oak. Aromas of incense, Asian and black fruits complement the dense texture with a fine and long finish.

Notes:  Luckily the wet cardboard smell (an indicator of cork taint) blew off quickly and I was left with dark fruit and the faintest hint of leaves.  The taste was all deep, dark fruits – a bowl full – framed by cigar, tannin and dust.  Another nice discovery.

3.3.  2009   Tierra Aranda. Tempranillo.  Bodega Virgen de las Vinas. Ribera del Duero.  Castilla Y León.    APV.: 14%  $ 19.99
Tierra Aranda” Bright red color with fresh fruit aromas and a hint of oak, structered in the palate, full bodied, spicy and round, Great balance and a long and lasting finish. Ideal with meats and cheese”. (label)
” Fresh, blackberry, oak, spice, full bodied”
” Deep purple in color, it offers up an inviting nose of sandelwood, Asian spices, tapenade, mineral, and blackberry. Some complexity in the palate”. Wine Advocate. 93 points.

Fresh, Blackberry, Oak, Spice, Full-bodied

Wine Advocate –  “Deep purple in color, it offers up an inviting nose of sandalwood, Asian spices, tapenade, mineral, and blackberry. Already exhibiting some complexity on the palate…rich, plush effort…” [BARREL SCORE 90-93]

3.4.  2008    Finca Sobreno 2008. Crianza. Tinta del Toro (Tempranillo clone). Bodegas Sobreno S.A.  Toro, Castilla Y León.     APV.:  14.5%     $ 19.99

Finca Sobreno“Grapes of the Tinta del Toro variety selected by hand in our oldest vineyard.
The wine is preocessed in our modern installations and then aged in oak barrels which make Sobreno a unique pleasure for any lover of fine red wines” (information in the label).
12 months in american oak barrels, 12 months in bottles.
Bodegas Sobreno was founded in 1998. In the early 90s a group of Rioja Winemakers became interested in Toro, convinced that top class wines could be made from the local Tempranillo clone known as Tinta de Toro. The combination of Rioja know-how, modern technology, strict attention to detail and fine old vines plantings has led Bodegas Sobreno to success.
The winery has 1400 barrels and boast production capacity of 500,000 bottles a year. The principal winemaking consultant is Manuel Ruiz Hernandez, one of Rioja’s most respected enologist. The wineyard currently owns 80 hectares, of which about half are vines over 30 years old and divided into may small parts.
In addition the winery controls 155 hectares of independently owned old-vines plots. The wineyards are 100% Tinta de Toro.
Soil types are allovial with a thick clay subsoil and a mix of sand and gravel. Yields are quite low, averaging 4000 kgs./hectare.
Bodegas ~SobreñoThe wines.
Tinto Joven. 3 months in oak
Crianza. 7-8 months in oak
Reserva, 3 years in oak, plus 1 year in bottles.
“Intense dark red color. Blackberry, black cherry fruit on the nose, ripe and full flavored.”

Wine Advocate. 89 + points.
” This purple/black colored wine offers up a slightly restrained nose cedar, violets, licorice, and blackberry. Ripe and and layered on the palate, this powerful effort will evolve for 2-3 years and drink well through 2020.”
Beverage Tasting Institute. 89 points. ” Aromas of chocolate, strawberries, and vanilla cupcakes with a silky fruit-yet- dry medium to full body and a juicy, cedar, cracked pepper, and spiced accented finish>”
Stephen Tanzer. International Wine Cellar 88 points. “Bright. Pungeant aromas of red fruit, rose and fresh herbs. Slightly tart-edged, but the bright floral and red berry flavors show good intensity and focus. Turn softer and suppler with air and finishes with good clarity and lingering speciness. ”

”
3.5.    2008    Finca Sobreno. Seleccion Especial 2008.  Tinta del Toro (Tempranillo). Bodegas Sobreño S.A., Toro, Castilla y León.  APV: 14.5%   $ 36.99

Sobreño - Seleccion Especial
Uva: Tinta de Toro. 14 meses en roble americano.
“Dark red color with dark purple tones. Powerful yet elegant nose, refined and stylish with ripe berry fruit, spicy complexity (clove, sandalwood, vanilla, chocolate). Muscular, elegant, yet silky smooth taste shows fruit preserves jam (blackberry, loganberry), chocolate truffle. Concentrated and rich, but not sweet with superb length. A good match for venison or wild boar with a fruit based sauce”. (label).

Stephen Tanzer. 91 points. “Opaque rubi. Exotic aromas of cherry-cola, blackberry preserves, vanilla, and potpourri. Weighty red and dark berry flavors are sweetened by vanillin oak and sharpened be cracked pepper and spice. The cola and floral notes build with air and carry through a long, sweet, quietly tannin finish”.

“
3.6.     Museum Real Reserva. Cigales.    100% Tinta del Pais (Tempranillo)   Anthony Murphy.     Cigales, Castilla Y León.  APV.: 14 %   $ 31

Museum RealWinemaker’s Notes:  Most famous as the predominant grape in the blended wines of Rioja, Tempranillo has emerged as a potential star in regions as disparate as Australia and California. Tempranillo generally produces medium-bodied wines with juicy acidity and bright raspberry fruit enlivened by notes of dusty earth, dry herbs and leather.

A very careful selection of grapes harvested by hand, in old vineyards around Cigales, in the Ribiera del Pisuerga area. Aged for two years in French oak. A full rich wine, similar in style to Rioja, great value. From:  Http://www.pauladamsfinewines.co.uk.

4.    Aspects of the Production Regions

Castilla y Leon Wines DO'sThis tasting focus the main Producing Regions of Castilla y Leon that are Ribeira del Duero, Rueda, Toro and Cigales.

Wine production here was generally fairly basith until the 1980’s when Ribera del Duero won its DO status and started make its presence felt.

“Rueda

Rueda is located north west of Madrid in the region of Castille and Leon. Laid on a high, flat plain that’s served by the Duero river, Rueda has a continental climate that’s affected by the Atlantic.

Rueda Seal This area is prone to frost, freezing fog and high winds during the winter and spring and so growers elect to train the vines close to the ground. However, Rueda enjoys long hot summers, around 2,700 hours of sunlight and a low chance of drought.

 

Rueda has an excellent reputation for fine white wines made from the Verdejo grape, and approximately 90% of vineyards focus on this grape. According to Rueda’s laws, Macabeo and Sauvignon Blanc can be used in a white wine blend but Verdejo has to constitute the significant majority. Red grapes are permitted and more recently Rueda has been growing Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Garnacha aside from the traditional Tempranillo.  From http://www.waitrosedirect.com.

Rueda  DO obtenida en 1980. Marques de Riscal promovio la zona con inversiones en 1972. Vinos blancos son la especialidad con uvas Verdejo y Viura. Para poner Verdejo en la etiqueta los vinos tienen que tener 85% de esa uva. Si aparece como Rueda tiene que tener 50%.
Los verdejos han sido producidos desde hace mucho en la region de Rueda. La cepa se origino en el norte de Africa y se trajo a Rueda en el siglo XI. Originalmente se hacia un vino fuerte oxidado tipo sherry. En 1970s Marques de Riscal con la colaboracion de Emile Peynaud comenzo a desarrollar un vino blanco fresco con esta uva. En 1980 los vinos blancos Rueda ganaron DO.
Los vinos verdejos son aromaticos, suaves, y full bodied. Las uvas se cosechan en las noches para evitar la rapida oxidacion que se produce con las altas temperaturas en setiembre.
Uva Tempranillo.
Originaria de Espana desde la epoca de los Fenicios. Principal uva en Rioja donde se la llamo la “noble grape”.
Madura varias semanas antes que otras cepas de ahi el nombre. A menudo se mezcla con Grenache y Carignan (se llama mazuelo en Rioja).
Normalmente plantada en lugares altos produce vinos con aromas y sabores de berries, plums, tobacco, vainilla, cuero y hierbas.
En 1990 hubo un renacimiento de esta uva gracias a bodegueros espanoles que probaron que podria dar buenos resultados fuera de Rioja principalmente en Ribera del Duero, Navarra y Penedes.
Tempranillo es una de las pocas uvas que se adapta a un clima mediterraneo. Constituye 90% de los vinos en Ribera del Duero y es la uva principal en los blends de Rioja. En Portugal se conoce como Tinta Roriz. Se conoce como Tinta del Pais en Ribera del Duero y Tinta de Toro en Toro.
Quality and Typicity
from the http://www.dorueda.com, The Official Website of the apellation.
The Denomination of Origin Rueda was approved by the Ministry of Agriculture on January 12, 1980; it was the first Denomination of Origin to be approved in the Region of Castilla y León, after years of hard work in order to earn acknowledgement and protection for its autochthonous grape variety: the Verdejo.

The Denomination of Origin Rueda possesses exceptional natural resources for the production of top-quality wines. Specialised in making internationally renowned white wines. Also, from the 5 of August of 2008 the red wines and rosé areprotected by the Denomination of Origin Rueda.

The production area included in the Denomination of Origin Rueda is located in the Region of Castilla y León and consists of 74 towns and villages, 53 of which are located south of the province of Valladolid, 17 to the west of  Segovia and 4 north of Ávila.

The different grape varieties grown here are irregularly scattered over the several municipal districts comprising Rueda Appellation of Origin. However, it is the area found within the boundaries of La Seca, Rueda and Serrada where vineyards are in a higher proportion and greater intensity.

There is only one D.O. in the region of Rueda, which is “Rueda D.O.”. Within the D.O. there are many styles of wine, and these styles each get their own back label. Learn about these styles and their corresponding black labels here.

Toro

Toro  es una denominacion de origen (DO) para vinos en la provincia de Zamora, la cual esta al Nordeste de Castilla Leon. El area cubierta por la DO esta en el SE de Torola provincia de Zamora e incluye las areas conocidas como Tierra del Vino, Valle del Guarena, y Tierra del Toro. Hace frontera con las areas de Tierra del Pan, y Tierra de Campos. Hay 8000 hectareas plantadas con vinas de las cuales 5500 estan registradas en el Consejo Regulador de la DO.
Clima. La DO tiene un clima continental extremo (veranos largos y calientes, inviernos muy frios). Temperaturas varian desde – 11C en invierno a 37c en verano. Llueve alrededor de 350-400 mm por ano. Las horas con sol van de 2600 a 3000 por ano.
Suelo. Esta formado por sedimentos de arena, arcilla, y lime lo cual produce un suelo obscuro (lime-bearing) con arena fina.
Variedades autorizadas. Tinto. Tinta del Toro (Tempranillo), Garnacha.
Blancos. Verdejo, Malvasia.
Vinos producidos ( 100%) Tinta de Toro.

  • a. tintos jovenes. Mejor tomarlos en el ano.
  • b. Roble. tintos jovenes envejecidos entre 3 y 6 meses (pueden tener un poco de Garnacha)
  • c. Crianza. envejecidos por los menos 2 anos, de los cuales al menos seis meses en barriles de roble.
  • d. Reserva. envejecidos por lo menos 3 anos de los cuales al menos un ano en barriles de roble.
  • e. Gran reserva. Envejecidos por lo menos 5 anos, de los cuales al menos dos anos en roble.

Los vinos rosados son hechos con 50% Tinta del Toro y 50% Garnacha.
Los blancos se hacen con 100% Verdejo o 100% Malvasia.
Historia de la region.
Se hace vino en Toro desde el siglo I AC cuando los griegos le ensenaron a las tribus Celtas locales. En la Edad Media los vinos de Toro fueron los primeros en ser comercializados en la region del rio Duero.
El rey Alfonso IX le cedio tierras a varias ordenes religiosas con el entendido que plantarian vinas y muchas de las 40 iglesias que existen en la ciudad de Toro fueron construidas gracias a la riqueza generada por el comerco de vinos.’
Los vinos de Toro comenzaron primeramente a ser vendidos en Sevilla y Palencia a medida que su prestigio crecia. Muchas bodegas fueron construidas bajo tierra para obtener mejores vinos y control de temperatura.
La DO Toro fue creada eb 1987.
A fines del siglo XIX se exportaban grandes cantidades de vinos de esta area para Francia durante la crisis de la phyloxera lo cual no afecto a Toro protegida por el suelo arenoso.
Los vinedos de otras regiones de Espana fueron sembrados con las vinas provenientes de Toro.

Ribera del Duero

     Ribera  del Duero is a Spanish Denominación de Origen (DO) located in the country’s northern plateau and is one of eleven ‘quality wine’ regions within the autonomous community of Castile and León.[1] It is also one of several recognised wine-producing regions to be found along the course of the Duero river.
The region is characterised by a largely flat, rocky terrain and is centred on the town of Aranda de Duero, although the most famous vineyards surround Peñafiel and Roa de Duero to the west, where the regional regulatory council or Consejo Regulador for the denominación is based. Text from Wikipedia.

Ribera del DueroRibera del Duero is home to the world-famous and highly-prized Emilio Moro, Cepa 21, Vega Sicilia and Tinto Pesquera wines and is dedicated almost entirely to the production of red wine from the Tempranillo grape.
Ribera del Duero was named wine region of the year 2012 by the prestigious Wine Enthusiast Magazine.

Cigales

The Cigales wine region is situated in the province of Valladolid and Palencia and covers an area of 2,600 hectares. The Cigales wine region consists of 37 vineyards (Bodegas), which produce 5 millon liter of wine annually. http://www.espanovino.com

This region within the Castilla y Leon province runs along the Pisuerga river. Wine-making dates back many centuries, having quenched the thirsts of the nobility and religious disciples who lived in the many castles and monasteries that dot the countryside. Cigales was finally awarded D.O. status in 1991.

Cigales has a very hot and dry continental climate. This is a region now mostly known for its rosados of Tinto del Pais (Tempranillo) and Garnacha, with quality red wines made from the same grapes. A small amount of white wine production is produced from Verdejo and Albillo. – Description from Amanda Schuster (snooth.com)

Cigales is a Spanish Denominación de Origen (DO) for wines located to the north of Valladolid (Castile and León, Spain) along both banks of the River Pisuerga.

Cigales

It includes several municipalities, including Valladolid itself, Dueñas, Cabezón de Pisuerga, Cigales, Corcos del Valle, Cubillas de Santa Marta, Fuensaldaña, Mucientes, Quintanilla de Trigueros, San Martín de Valvení, Trigueros del Valle and Valoria la Buena. The DO has an extension of 574 km² and is at an altitude of 750 m above sea level. It is a relatively recent DO, having been created in 1991. Wikipedia.com

Terroir at Bodegas Museum, Cigales

Like other DOs in the region, Cigales supplied Valladolid and other cities with wine during the Middle Ages. While Toro supplied red wine and Rueda white wine, Cigales specialised in clarets and rosés. These wines were made until recently in underground cellars, which were often shared by small wine-makers (bodegueros) and which were excavated to depths of over 10 m.

.o0o.

Videos: Castilla y León with focus on Vale del Duero

10 Sunday Feb 2013

Posted by ClubVino in Wine Regions, Wines

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

Castilla y Leon, Cigales, Ribera del Duero, Rueda, Toro, Vale del Duero

Castilla y LeónVideos: Castilla y León with focus on Vale del Duero

To watch the videos click the arrow

Castilla y León, la comunidad autónoma más extensa de España:

The Wine Brothers – The Wines of Ribera del Duero

The Wine Brothers – Wines of Rueda & Toro 2

Bullish on Toro! The next hot wine from Spain

Terroir at Bodegas Museum, Cigales

Wines From Ribera Del Duero In Spain


Finca Sobreño

Virginia vintners get a proper nod – article of D. McIntyre summarized by J.L. Colaicovo

18 Thursday Oct 2012

Posted by Cecilio Augusto Berndsen in Member's Forum, Opinons, Wine Regions

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

Dave McIntyre, governors cup, Steven Spurrier, virginia

Virginia vintners get a proper nod

Virginia vintners get a proper nod

by Dave McIntyre, Washington Post, October 15, 2012    to read the full article click here

Estimados amigos del GN:

Resumen hecho por L.L. Colaicovo

Para aquellos que no han tenido oportunidad de leer el WP de hoy les hago llegar un resumen muy ilustrativo sobre los vinos de Virginia tema sobre el cual hemos

J.L. Colaiacovo

estado muy ocupados. Creo que es un excelente articulo de Dave McIntyre.
Recientemente el gobernador de Virginia organizo en Richmond a Wine Summit. El invitado de honor fue Steven Spurrier que escribe sobre vinos para la revista Decanter y que se hizo famoso al organizar el Paris tasting en 1976 y que puso los vinos de California en el mapa mundial del vino.  Datos de la película que conta el Paris tasting en 1976 puedem ser vistos en el blog de Club del Vino – haga click aqui (Bottle Schock) para ver datos sobre Bottle Schock, el filme que hizo S. Spurrier mas famoso.
Con un comentario interesante endoso los vinos del estado: “Virginia makes wines I like to drink”. “They are not flashy or over-extracted. They call for a second glass. It is not very often with some of those big, burly 15.5% alcohol wines from California that I even want half of the glass in front of me”. People in Virginia ignore what is in their backyard.
1. “Virginia is a national contender”
2. “He became a fan of the wines of Barboursville, Breaux, Keswick, King Family, Veritas, and Williamsburg wineries.”
3. “Here on the East Coast with its cooler, more humid climate, Virginia makes quite different wines. This is in my view a strenght”.
4. “As for grape varieties, he endorsed viognier as Virginia’s calling card for whites, and cabernet franc and petit verdot as its strongest reds. Few wine regions in the world make a varietal petit verdot.”
5. “He also praised nebbiolo and petit manseng (a variety from southwestern France). Esta uva es un componente del Tarara 2010 Honah Lee white que probamos en el GN.
6. “Blended reds are arguably Virginias’s strongest category.”
7. Vinos recomendados:
a. Viognier. Veritas 2011, Barboursville 2010, Chrysalis 2011
b. Chardonnay. Ankida Ridge2011, Linden Hardscrabble 2009, Stinson Vineyards 2011, Chatham Vineyards Church Creek Steel 2009.
c. Petit Manseng. Chester Gap 2009 Cuvee Manseng, Horton 2008
d. Cabernet Franc. Baroboursville 2010, Michael Shaps 2008, Glen Manor 2010.
e. Petit Verdot. Veritas 2010, Linden 2009, Ingleside 2008.
f. Bordezux blends. RdV Lost Mountain 2009, Boxwood Topiary 2010, Potomac point Heritage Reserve 2009.
Es bueno guardar esto en el blog. Amigos con nuestro tasting estuvimos muy bien.
Saludos. Juan Luis.

Tasting No. 21- June 14, 2012 – Nebbiolo

13 Wednesday Jun 2012

Posted by ClubVino in Tasting Meetings, Varietals, Wine Regions

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Tags

italy, nebiolo

   

CAPRI rISTORANTE

Content of this post:

 
Orlando Mason
  • I  Participants
  • II    Nebbiolo   Wines
  • III   Nebbiolo Grape (Wikipedia)
  • IV   The charms of lesser Nebbiolo wines, Washington Post 

I    Participants:  

Alfonso Sanchez, Jairo Sanchez, Carlos Paldao, Miguel  Segovia, Orlando Mason, Orlando Reos, Cecilio-Augusto Berndsen, Wilson Moreira and Mario Aguilar.

Wines presentation by Jairo Sanchez and Orlando Mason

The menu to be served:

  • 1.       Entrada:               Mejillones en salsa de vino blanco, ajo y limón
  • 2.       Ensalada:             Rucola, queso de cabra, tomates “cherry’ y nueces, con aliño de aceite de oliva y limón
  • 3.       Pasta:                    Penne y ragú de ternera
  • 4.       Plato Principal:  New York steak con salsa de reducción de vino tinto y hongos shiitake, acompañado de papas horneadas y espinacas
  • 5.       Postre:                 Selección del menú.
Informative material collected and selected by Jairo Sanches and Orlando Mason. 
.

II     Nebbiolo Wines  to be Tasted

 Vieti Barolo Castiglione 2007, Terre Del Barolo Barbaresco 2006, Travalini Gattinara 2005, & Gavi di Tassarolo La Fornace 2010


>  Vieti Barolo Castiglione 2007
Vietti - Barolo "Castiglione" DOCG 2007Designation: estate-bottled, Barolo DOCG
,  Region: Barolo, Piedmont, Italy,    Grapes: 100% Nebbiolo

,      Alcohol: 14,50 %,   Acidity: 5,4 g/l.

   Total dry extract: 32,9 g/L.

 Production:  Bottles: 43.170,  Magnum 200;     US $  45   MacArthur Liquor Store    

Winemaking: The grapes are selected from vineyards located in Castiglione Falletto, Monforte, Barolo and Novello where the vines are planed an average of 4.800 vines per hectare. The vines are 7 to 35 years old with yields of 35 hl/ha, grown using the Guyot system. After harvesting, the grapes are gently pressed. Fermentation in stainless steel occurs over 15 days, with daily cap submersion for extraction of flavor and color.

Aging: The wine is then aged for 24 months in casks. The wine was blended in stainless steel tanks 8 months before bottling. Description: “The 2007 Barolo Castiglione deftly balances the open, radiant personality of the vintage with considerable underlying structure. Warm, dense and full-bodied, the 2007 Barolo Castiglione flows effortlessly across the palate with generous fruit and fabulous overall balance. The wine was even better when I tasted it from bottle a few months later. It is another overachieving wine from Vietti and a bottle that is exceedingly fairly priced”. (Antonio Galloni – The Wine advocate – February 2011).

Food Pairings: Hearty stew, wild game, roasted red meats and cheeses.

The Vietti family first began growing grapes within the part of Piedmont that gives birth to Barolo in the middle of the 19th century. However, it wasn’t until 1919 that patriarch Mario Vietti began releasing wines made from the family grapes under the Vietti name. Originally a varied family farm (with olives and agriculture as well as grapes), Mario Vietti oversaw a transformation of the land on which the Vietti family worked, so that by the time of succession, the Vietti family were only involved in grape growing and wine production.

Run by Alfredo Currado from 1952 (Luciana Vietti’s husband – only deceased in 2010), Vietti began to build a reputation for high quality and was one of only two producers to rescue the grape “Arneis” during the 1970s. Since 1990, Luca Currado (Alfredo’s son) took on an increasing role in the Vietti winery and has remained the senior winemaker since his father’s death.

Despite the fact that the Vietti winery became widely known as a result of the work undertaken with the Arneis grape, it has always been the range of Vietti Barolos that has formed the pinnacle of the Vietti range of wines. Today owning 35 hectares of vineyards, the Vietti winery is the only producer of Barolo to own land in all eleven of the communes permitted for Barolo production. Producing no fewer than five different Vietti Barolos (the Vietti Barolo Castiglione, the Vietti Barolo Rocche, the Vietti Barolo Lazzarito, the Vietti Barolo Brunate and the Vietti Barolo Riserva Villero), this Vietti Barolo Castiglione represents the entry point to a substantial range of Vietti Barolo.

100% Nebbiolo (as is required of all Barolo by Italian law) this Vietti Barolo Castiglione is a blend of grapes selected from family owned Vietti vineyards in Castiglione Falletto, Monforte d’Alba, Barolo and Novello. The Vietti Nebbiolo vines in these vineyards are seven to thirty five years of age.

After picking, the Nebbiolo grapes that make up this 2007 Vietti Barolo Castiglione were gently pressed, before being passed into stainless steel tanks where a fermentation of 15 days in duration occurred. After fermentation of this 2007 Vietti Barolo Castiglione was complete, this 2007 Vietti Barolo Castiglione was then passed into oak casks for 24 months aging (prior to the 2010 vintage all Barolo must have received 24 months in oak prior to release, after the 2010 vintage this legal requirement for Barolo was reduced to 18 months). Following this time, this 2007 Vietti Barolo Castiglione was added back into stainless steel tanks for blending for around 8 months prior to bottling.

With Nebbiolo a slow ripening grape and one which can be particularly susceptible to climatic conditions during the growing season, the weather experienced by the south and south-western areas of the Barolo DOCG zone of production (from which the grapes for this 2007 Vietti Barolo Castiglione are drawn) will have been key in determining the quality of this 2007 Vietti Barolo Castiglione. As it happened, 2007 was an extremely unusual vintage in Barolo, with the growing season starting significantly earlier than normal (around four weeks early in most parts), but with grapes spending around 3 weeks longer than average on the vines before picking.

In relation to this 2007 Vietti Barolo Castiglione, the commune of Barolo (from which a portion of this 2007 Vietti Barolo Castiglione is drawn) typically produces elegant and approachable wines (even when young) although this will likely be balanced by the portion of this 2007 Vietti Barolo Castiglione that hails from Monforte a’Alba that is known for producing more structured expressions of Barolo. How the Vietti winery dealt with a late, but heavy series of hailstorms that affected the south of the Barolo zone of production will also have been key to how this Vietti Barolo Castiglione from the 2007 vintage fares.

Examining the bottle of this 2007 Vietti Barolo Castiglione, one can certainly say that it is particularly aesthetically pleasing. An embossed, weighty and low-shouldered bottle is adorned with a brightly coloured label. The cork of this 2007 Vietti Barolo Castiglione is real and appears tightly grained and of good quality. Barolo is known as a wine that can be capable of extended of aging (although perhaps the 2007 vintage of Barolo should not be considered quite as age-worthy as some other recent vintages) although this cork looks as if it would withstand extended cellaring should one desire to put a few bottles away in good conditions.

In the glass, this 2007 Vietti Barolo Castiglione is clear (i.e. non-faulty), and shows a garnet hue of moderate intensity. The Nebbiolo grape is known for the discolouration that occurs with bottle and oak aging and this 2007 Vietti Barolo Castiglione certainly shows a significant degree of rusticity at the rim of the wine as a result of two years in oak and subsequent bottle age. The alcohol content of this 2007 Vietti Barolo Castiglione is relatively easy to spot, with the legs of this 2007 Vietti Barolo Castiglione prominent on the side of the glass when swirled. The quoted abv of this 2007 Vietti Barolo Castiglione is 14.5%. Most Barolo in the 2007 vintage showed 14-14.5% abv.

On the nose, this 2007 Vietti Barolo Castiglione is clean (i.e. non-faulty) and pronounced in its fragrance. Red fruit is the prominent aroma of this 2007 Vietti Barolo Castiglione (red cherry and a little redcurrant), although oak derived vanilla notes, notes of candied fruit (raisins and prune) and aromas of roses all add complexity and interest. A comparatively fragrant nose hints at both the 2007 Barolo vintage’s initial warmth and the inclusion of a parcel of fruit from the commune of Barolo in this 2007 Vietti Barolo Castiglione.

In the mouth, this 2007 Vietti Barolo Castiglione is dry, full-bodied and long. Red fruit and oak characteristics are particularly well balanced (something which cannot be said of all wines in the 2007 Barolo vintage – which has seen the fruit of some wines overpowered by cedar notes and gripping oak derived tannins). Those candied fruit notes from the nose of this 2007 Vietti Barolo Castiglione overlay the red fruit and oak as they pass on a structured but elegant journey through the palate over well resolved tannins and a good level of acidity that nonetheless remains in balance. For sure this 2007 Vietti Barolo Castiglione is a wine with an obvious structure, however it never overpowers the fruit notes it is there to support.

Overall, this 2007 Vietti Barolo Castiglione is a particularly accomplished Barolo. In a Barolo vintage that many winemakers have referred to as difficult and even unique, Vietti have created a Barolo in the form of this 2007 Vietti Barolo Castiglione that has retained balance and elegance and have crafted a Barolo that is also suitable for drinking earlier than many wines from within this zone of production and vintage. Traditionalists may find the oak influence of this 2007 Vietti Barolo Castiglione a little sweet, however it is this very characteristic (along with the delicacy of those candied fruit notes) that makes this 2007 Vietti Barolo Castiglione so approachable and enjoyable in the first place. Often approachability comes at the cost of complexity, although this is not the case when it comes to this 2007 Vietti Barolo Castiglione.

£30 for a bottle certainly does not make this 2007 Vietti Barolo Castiglione an inexpensive purchase, however in the context of the majority of Barolo, this 2007 Vietti Barolo Castiglione is less expensive than much of the competition. Not only that, but this 2007 Vietti Barolo Castiglione offers quality over and above what might normally be seen at this price level in Barolo.

Traditional food pairings for this 2007 Vietti Barolo Castiglione include hard cheeses, rich stews and game.

> Terre Del Barolo Barbaresco 2006 Riserva

Designation: Barbatesco 2006 DOCG
Riserva,  Region: Langhe, Piedmont, Italy

,    Grapes: 100% Nebbiolo
,   Winemaker: Terre de Barolo. Bottled by Cantina Terre del Barolo Soc. Coop. Agr. Castiglione Falleto, Alcohol: 14.5%,   US $ 24, MacArthur Liquor Store

Barbaresco wine is made from Nebbiolo grapes grown in the hillsides of 4 villages in Langhe, around Alba. Ageing 12 months in oak cask highlights its finer, more refined qualities, and great elegance and appeal make it a very versatile match for a wide range of dishes. An ageing period of not less than four years can give the wine a specification of “riserva.”

Ruby-garnet in the glass with aromas of black fruit, rose petals, spice and sandalwood.  This is a dry, very approachable Barbaresco with soft texture, good balance and silky tannins. Very well priced. A delight with lamb or pasta with a mushroom sauce. (VINTAGES panel, Nov. 2010)

Drinking window: Drink between 2011 and 2015

Tasted by Rubious on 11/26/2011. Rated 90 points: Opened for 3hrs then decanter for an hour before drinking. On the nose is very smooth and aromatic with tones of roses. The decanting opened this very nicely. Could spend a few years in the cellar.      Score: 4.5/5            Released:Sep 03, 2011

A light and easy drinking Barbaresco that is a bit darker ruby than one would expect from the nebbiolo-based wine.

Medium bodied with sharp tannins, this wine is still a little tight and can use a few more years in the cellar. After 2 hours in a decanter, subtle spice and floral notes dominate the palate with berrylike undertones that produce a tangy and medium finish.   A good wine for its value (approx. $25), but for a few dollars more, there are better options out there.    Score: 87

>  Travaglini Gattinara 2005

 

Region:  Gratina, Piedmont, Italy,  Grapes:  Nebiolo, Alcohol:  13.0%   US $ 25

This wine is from Italy, Piedmont region, Gattinara sub-region. Grapes are grown in Piedmont’s Gattinara D.O.C.G., in vineyards planted on steep slopes at an elevation of 900 – 1,300 feet. The soil is rich in iron and trace quantities of carbonate, calcium and magnesium. These unique soils combine with an ideal microclimate to yield high quality nebbiolo grapes. 

90 points Parker’s Wine Advocate: “The 2005 Gattinara is a pretty, mid-weight Nebbiolo. Sweet cherries, tobacco, herbs and crushed flowers are some of the notes that emerge from this classy, refined red. The Gattinara is a somewhat fleeting, ethereal wine, but it has the freshness and firmness to age well for at least another decade. This entry-level Gattinara possesses tons of varietal character in a translucent, weightless expression that is typical of the appellation. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020.” 

Winemaker’s notes:

The wine shows a deep ruby red with garnet reflections. On the nose, aromas of red fruit, blackberry, plum and licorice with hints of vanilla and leather, which lead to a taste which is full-bodied, with intense flavors of cherry, raspberry and spice culminating in a long and smooth finish.

Tasting Notes: Full-bodied, dry and deep flavour with a fruity accent underlined by a slight sapidity. Long and persistent aftertaste.    This wine is outstanding with red meat, game and hard cheeses.

Travaglini is a family-owned wine estate in the tiny Gattinara appellation within north Italy’s renowned Piedmont region. Established in the 1920s by Clemente Travaglini, the winery is Gattinara’s most esteemed producer of traditional, limited-production wines from the nebbiolo grape (known locally as spanna). The family’s passion for winemaking has not diminished through the generations; Cinzia Travaglini, a great-granddaughter of Clemente, manages day-to-day operations at winery. Her husband Massimo Collauto is chief winemaker, a role he inherited from his late father-in-law and beloved mentor, Giancarlo Travaglini (winemaker at Travaglini for 45 years). Giancarlo’s wife, Lilliana, oversees vineyard operations.

Travaglini wines are easily recognized by their distinctive bottle shape, featuring a unique curve that fits naturally in the palm of the hand and serves to catch sediment during decanting. Specially designed to celebrate Travaglini’s excellent 1952 vintage, the bottle was so well received that family decided to keep it as their trademark.

PIEDMONT            Piedmont has more DOCG titles (15 as of early 2011) than any other Italian wine region – a statistic which strongly supports its status as Italy’s finest wine region. The first Piedmont wine to be granted DOCG status was Barolo, followed just a few months later by its neighbor Barbaresco. Barolo was one of the first DOCG wines in Italy, promoted to this newly created classification on the same day as Tuscany’s Brunello di Montalcino, on 1 July 1980.

Barolo and Barbaresco remained alone as Piedmont DOCGs until joined by Gattinara (also a Nebbiolo-based red) in 1990 and the sweet, sparkling whites of Asti (both Moscato d’Asti and Asti Spumante) in 1993. Three very different wines earned DOCG badges during the later 1990s: aromatic, sparkling red Brachetto d’Acqui in 1996, Ghemme (a fourth Nebbiolo DOCG) in 1997 and dry white Cortese di Gavi in 1998.

In 2005 even Dolcetto, far from Piedmont’s most glamorous grape, was given its own DOCG –Dolcetto di Dogliani Superiore (Dogliani for short) – later joined by Dolcetto di Diano d’Alba (Diano d’Alba for short) in August 2010, a week before Erbaluce di Caluso (Caluso for short). It was not until 2008 that wines made from Barbera grapes were recognized as DOCGs, when Barbera d’Asti andBarbera del Monferrato Superiore were elevated to this highest rank of Italian wine classification.

The variety of wine styles included among Piedmont’s DOCGs is impressive. Dry, sweet and sparkling styles are all on the list, and each have both red and white representatives. Crowd pleasers such as Moscato are made alongside stubborn, tannic Nebbiolo reds, while familiar varieties such as Barbera hold equal rank with obscurities such as Erbaluce and Ruche.

Piedmont DOCGs are concentrated mostly to the south of Alba and Asti, at the meeting point of the Alps and the Apennines. The majority are found within a few miles of the Tanaro river which bisects Piedmont, leaving only Ghemme and Gattinara (up near Lake Maggiore and the border withLombardy) to fly the flag for the region’s north – though in 2010 they gained an ally in the form of Caluso.

There will no doubt be new additions to the list of Piedmont DOCGs in the coming decade, particularly given Italy’s apparent determination to claw backs its share of the world wine market. Thanks to the economic advantages of a DOCG label, there will be no shortage of candidates vying for promotion.

>  Gavi di Tassarolo La Fornace, 2010
Productor and Region:  Azienda Agricola Cinzia Bergaglio, Tassarolo, Piemonte, White Wine,  Grape: Cortese,    Alcohol: 12.5%   about US $ 15

A great Gavi with a complex nose and palate of almond, blossom and hints of

vanilla. The limited oaking lends weight rather than a woody flavour, giving the wine good body and some length.

Expert’s View   View Vincent Honorat’s Profile
“Here’s an excellent take on this ever popular Italian white wine, made from the classic Cortese grape, the native variety of Alessandria in Piedmont. Cortese has been so successful in producing world-class wines in Gavi (which is located in the south of Piedmont close to Liguria) that it is today known locally as Cortese di Gavi.”

Food Pairing

Frequently compared to Chablis due to its crisp, lean fruit and aromatic complexity, Gavi is a lovely food wine. This delightfully floral expression is perfect for fish and seafood, as well as lighter chicken dishes. Squid has a natural affinity with this wine, especially when seared with garlic and a touch of chilli, or stuffed and chargrilled.

Origin

Located just outside of Tassarolo in the province of Alessandria, south Piedmont,  L’Azienda Bergaglio is a family-run winery of over four generation. They have five hectares of vineyards across Gavi and Tassarolo, and use strict green harvesting and low-impact farming methods to create healthy vines and intensely flavored grapes.

Our Tasting Notes

Pale lemony yellow with a delicious inviting bouquet of quince, lemon, white scented flowers and some softer honey and blanched almond notes. On the palate it is light and fresh, with a pleasant, cleansing mouth feel and flavors of grapefruit, apple and wild herbs mingling together. The finish is refreshing and fragrant.

Gavi – Cortese di Gavi wine region

The Gavi, or Cortese di Gavi, DOCG is situated in the southern part of Piedmont, in north-westernItaly. Its name derives from the town of Gavi, which is at the centre of the production zone, and the indigenous white grape variety from which it is made. Due to its close proximity with Liguria, its winemaking and gastronomic traditions are more Ligurian than Piemontese, which could explain the light and fruity style of this white wine.

Despite being more closely linked in style with its neighboring region’s wines, Gavi is still considered Piedmont’s white jewel in the crown. It gained DOCG status in 1998 and its vineyards are mainly found in the hills of 13 communes in the province of Alessandria

Gavi was Italy’s first white wine to gain international repute and is still considered one of the top-ranking Italian whites today. Made exclusively from the Cortese grape, a variety which has a heritage dating back to the 1600s, this is a wine that reflects its terroir. It is noted for its bone-dry character and crisp, flinty and fresh acidity, coming from the mineral-rich soils of the area. The bouquet is particularly floral, offering delicate aromas reminiscent of white flowers, lemons, green apples and honeydew. It is a well-balanced wine, distinctly fruit driven with underlying hints of almonds on the finish. It may not display great potential alcohol but it is certainly an age-worthy wine.   Gavi is generally considered an excellent partner to seafood.

Those wines that state Gavi di Gavi on their label can do so only if their fruit comes from vineyards in the township of Gavi.

III      Nebbiolo Grape (Wikipedia)


Nebbiolo (Italian), or Nebieul (Piedmontese) is a red Italian wine grape variety predominately associated with the Piedmont region where it makes the Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) wines of Barolo, Barbaresco, Gattinara and Ghemme. Nebbiolo is thought to derive its name from the Italian word nebbia which means “fog.” During harvest, which generally takes place late in October, a deep, intense fog sets into the Langhe region where many Nebbiolo vineyards are located. Alternative explanations refers to the fog-like milky veil that forms over the berries as they reach maturity or that perhaps the name is derived instead from the Italian word nobile, meaning noble. Nebbiolo produces lightly colored red wines, which can be highly tannic in youth with scents of tar and roses. As they age, the wines take on a characteristic brick-orange hue at the rim of the glass and mature to reveal other aromas and flavors such as violets, tar, wild herbs, cherries, raspberries, truffles, tobacco, and prunes. Nebbiolo wines can require years of aging to balance the tannins with other characteristics.

Ampelographers believe that Nebbiolo is indigenous to the Piedmont region though some DNA evidence suggest that it may have originated in Lombardy. In the 1st century AD, Pliny the Elder noted the exceptional quality of the wine produced in Pollenzo region located northwest of what is now the Barolo DOCG zone. While Pliny does not explicitly name the grape responsible for these Pollenzo wines, his description of the wine bears similarities to later descriptions of Nebbiolo-based wines, making this potentially the first notation of wine made from Nebbiolo in the Piedmont region. The first explicit mention of Nebbiolo dates to 1268 where a wine known as “nibiol” was growing in Rivoli near Turin.[This was followed by a 1303 account of a producer in the Roero district described as having a barrel of “nebiolo” (sic). In the 1304 treatise Liber Ruralium Commodorum, the Italian jurist Pietro Crescenzi described wine made from “nubiola” (sic) as being of excellent quality. In the 15th century, statutes in the region of La Morra (in what is now the Barolo zone) demonstrated the high esteem that the Nebbiolo vine had in the area. According to these laws, the penalties for cutting down a Nebbiolo vine ranged from a heavy fine to having the right hand cut off or hanging for repeat offenders.

The grape first captured attention outside of Piedmont in the 18th century, when the British were looking for alternative wine sources to Bordeaux due to prolonged political conflicts with the French. However the lack of easy transport from Piedmont to London would keep the Piedmontese wine from having the enduring relationship with British connoisseurship that is associated with Bordeaux, Port and Sherry. Nonetheless, plantings of Nebbiolo continued to grow during the 19th century until the phylloxera epidemic hit. With vast swaths of vineyards devastated by the louse, some vineyard owners decided to replant with different grape varieties with Barbera being a significant beneficiary. Today, Nebbiolo covers less than 6% of Piedmont vineyards.

Relationships with other varieties

In 2004, research at the University of California-Davis and Istituto Agrario di San Michele all’Adige found Nebbiolo to be related to Piedmont to two aromatic grape varieties—the Freisa grape of Piedmont and the French Rhone variety Viognier. This research would further suggest a parent-offspring relationship between Nebbiolo and several Italian grapes including Freisa, Bubbierasco, Nebbiolo Rosé and Vespolina of the Piedmont region and the Lombardy grapes Negrera and Rossola.

Viticulture

The Tanaro river runs through the heart Nebbiolo country in Piedmont.

  1. Compared to the annual growth cycle of other Piedmontese grape varieties, Nebbiolo is one of the first varieties to bud and last variety to ripen with harvest taking place in mid to late October. In some vintages, producers are able to pick and complete fermentation of their Barbera and Dolcetto plantings before Nebbiolo is even harvested. To aid in ripening, producers will often plant Nebbiolo in the most favored sites on south and southwestern facing slopes, which give the grape more access to direct sunlight.[ The most ideal location is at an elevation between 150 and 300 meters (500 and 1,000 ft) and must provide some natural shelter from wind. The vine is very susceptible to coulure, especially if there is wet weather during budbreak or flowering. While rains during this period can affect yield and quantity, rains that occur after the period of veraison can have a detrimental effect on quality. The most highly rated bottles of Piedmont Nebbiolo tend to come from vintages that had dry weather during September & October. Nebbiolo needs sufficient warmth to develop the sugars and fruit flavors needed to balance the grape’s naturally high acidity and tannins.

Nebbiolo does not adapt exceptionally well to various vineyard soil types, preferring soils with high concentration of calcareous marl such as those found on the right bank of the Tanaro river around Alba where Barolo & Barbaresco are produced. The grape can thrive in sandy soils, such as those on the left bank of the Tanaro around the Roero district but the wines from this soil type tend not to be as perfumed-lacking in particular the classic tar aromas.The slightly acidic pH of the sandy Roero soils tend to be produce early maturing wines. The lighter wines of Ghemme and Gattinara come from the acidic porphyry soils of the hills between Novara and Vercelli. In the lower Aosta Valley, the soil has a high concentration of granite while the soils of the Valtellina region of Lombardy are predominately schist based. In addition to soil type, the drainage ability and concentration of magnesium and potassium can have an influencing effect on the type of Nebbiolo wine is produced.

Clones

Like many varieties (such as Pinot noir) with ancient pedigree, the Nebbiolo vine is genetically unstable and prone to mutation. As of 2001, there were around 40 different clones of Nebbiolo identified. The three main strains used for winemaking are Lampia, Michet and Rosé Nebbiolo. Rosé Nebbiolo has fallen out of favor in recent years due to its wine’s light coloring. The Lampia strain adapts best to different soil types. Perhaps due to inbreeding in Nebbiolo’s lineage, the vine is very prone to grape diseases caused by viruses. Viral infection of the Lampia strain causes the cane of the vine to fork, or split, giving rise to the Michet type, which adapts poorly to different soil types. Its smaller bunches and lower yields cause it to produce highly concentrated wines. In many vineyards, producers will maintain a variety of Nebbiolo clones in order to maximize their wines’ complexity.

Winemaking

Nebbiolo has a traditionally light ruby red color in its youth. In the most notable expression of Nebbiolo, the wines of Barolo, there is division between what is considered a “traditional” approach to Nebbiolo and a “modernist” approach. The roots of both style can trace its history to the early “pre-technology” production of Nebbiolo. Prior to the advent of temperature control fermentation, the late harvest dates for Nebbiolo meant that the wines began fermentation when the weather turned cold. These cool temperatures would delay fermentation for several days, extending the maceration period and extraction of phenolic compounds such as tannins. When fermentation did begin, temperatures would reach excessive levels of 95-100 °F (35-38 °C) which would drastically reduce potential aromas and flavors. With the high levels of tannins, these early Barolos would require five years or more aging in oak barrels to soften some of the astringency.  

Today’s winemaking for both traditionalist and modernist include strict hygiene controls and the use of some modern winemaking equipment. Rather than fall into one hardline camp or the other, many producers take a middle ground approach that utilizes some modernist technique along with traditional winemaking. In general, the traditional approach to Nebbiolo involves long maceration periods of 20 to 30 days and the use of older large botti size barrels. The modern approach to Nebbiolo utilizes shorter maceration periods of 7 to 10 days and cooler fermentation temperatures between 82-86 °F (28-30 °C) that preserve fruit flavors and aromas. Towards the end of the fermentation period, the cellars are often heated to encourage the start of malolactic fermentation which softens some of Nebbiolo’s harsh acidity. Modern winemakers tend to favor smaller barrels of new oak that need only a couple years to soften the tannic grip of the wines. While new oak imparts notes of vanilla, it has the potential to cover up the characteristic rose notes of Nebbiolo.[2]

Blending

In the Piedmont region, there is a long history of blending other grape varieties with Nebbiolo in order to add color and/or soften the grape’s harsh tannins. In addition to red wine grapes such as Barbera, Croatina and Bonarda Piemontese being used, white wine grapes such Arneis and Favorita also have a history of being blended with Nebbiolo. Historically the association with blending Arneis with Nebbiolo was so strong that a common synonym of the former is Barolo Bianco or “white Barolo”.[Today the DOCG regulations for Barolo and Barbaresco call for the wine to be a 100% varietal of Nebbiolo. In 1998, producers of the Barbaresco region drafted a proposal to allow 10-15% of other grape varieties into the wine but bad press by Italian wine critics lead to the rejection of that plan. While there is some speculation, from critics such as Oz Clarke, that Barbera or even Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon may be used to augment the color and flavors of Barolos by some producers there is no explicit proof that this is occurring.

For the Nebbiolo based wines of the Roero DOC between 2 to 5% of Arneis is permitted in the blend but the majority of producers rarely use this allowance. Similarly, many producers in Ghemme and Gattinara who are allowed some blending of Vespolina, Croatina and Bonarda opt instead to use nearly 100% Nebbiolo. In the Valtellina region of Lombardy Merlot, Pinot nero, Pignola, Prugnolo and Rossola are permitted blending partners for Nebbiolo.

Wine regions

Nebbiolo is found predominately in the northwest Italian region of Piedmont where it forms the base of many of the regions most well known Denominazione di origine controllata (DOC) and DOCG wines including Barolo, Barbaresco, Gattinara, Ghemme and Nebbiolo d’Alba. Despite the prestige and acclaim of Nebbiolo based wine, it is far from being the most widely grown grape in Piedmont. In 2000, there were just under 12,700 acres (5,100 ha) of Nebbiolo producing 3.3 million gallons (125,000 hectoliters) of wine which accounted for a little over 3% of Piedmont’s entire production. In contrast, there is nearly 15 times as much Barbera planted in the region. Outside of Piedmont, it is found in the neighboring regions of the Val d’Aosta region of Donnaz and Valtellina and Franciacorta in Lombardy. In the Veneto, there is a small amount which some producers use to make a Nebbiolo recioto wine. Outside of Italy, producers in the United States are experimenting with plantings in California, Washington and Oregon. In the Northern Region of Baja California, Mexico, over 2,700 acres (1,100 ha) support the production of the Nebbiolo varietal. In Argentina there are 200 acres (81 ha) planted in the San Juan province and Australian producers in the King Valley region of Victoria have found some success with their Nebbiolo plantings.[1]

Barolo & Barbaresco

The Piedmont region is considered the viticultural home of Nebbiolo and it is where the grape’s most notable wines are made. The consistent continental climate of the region, coupled with the influences of Tanaro river produces a unique terroir for Nebbiolo that is not easily replicated in other parts of the world. The two most well known Nebbiolo based wines are the DOCG wines of the Barolo & Barbaresco zones near Alba. Barbaresco is considered the lighter of the two and has less stringent DOCG regulations, with the normale bottlings requiring only 9 months in oak and 21 months of total aging and the reserva bottlings requiring 45 total months of aging. In contrast the Barolo DOCG requires 1 year in oak and 3 years total aging for normale bottlings and 57 months total aging for riserva. The minimum alcohol levels for the two region vary slightly with Barbaresco requiring a minimum of 12.5% and Barolo 13%.[2](However, Barolo, as of 1999, now only requires a minimum of 12.5% as well)

Nebbiolo planted in Novara and Vercelli region of northern Piedmont tend to produce lighter and earthier wines.

The Barolo zone is three times the size of the Barbaresco zone with the different communes producing Nebbiolo based wines with noticeable distinctions among them. In the commune of Castiglione Falletto, the wines are more powerful and concentrated with the potential for finesse. Nebbiolo grown in Monforte has a firm tannic structure and the most potential for aging. The Serralunga region produces the heaviest, full bodied Nebbiolo wines and is also the last region to start it harvest, often two week after other areas have begun picking. These three region located on the eastern edge of the zone have soils that are dominated by sand and limestone. In the west, the communes of La Morra and Barolo have soils dominated by chalk and marl and produce wines that are more perfume and silky in texture. Throughout both the Barolo and Barbaresco zones are deposit of clay which add considerable tannins to Nebbiolo.

Rest of Piedmont and Italy

Outside of Barolo & Barbaresco, Nebbiolo is found in the DOCG wines of Ghemme and Gattinara in the Novara and Vercelli hills of northern Piedmont. In these regions the grape is known as Spanna and tends to produce lighter more earthier wines. Rather than mandate a 100% Nebbiolo, producers are allowed to blend a small percentage of Bonarda, Croatina and Vespolina though most modern producers favor a high percentage of Nebbiolo. In the northwestern corner of Piedmont, near the Valle d’Aosta, the cool climate of Carema DOC produces Nebbiolo wines with lots of perfume but in some vintages will have difficulties with ripeness. In the Roero district located across the Tanaro river from Barolo & Barbaresco, the wines tend to be less tannic and lighter while those produced in nearby Alba under the Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC can have more complexity and body.

Outside of Piedmont there are significant plantings of Nebbiolo in the Lombardy region of Valtellina where the grape is known as Chiavennasca. The high yields and sub-alpine climate tends to produce Nebbiolo lacking ripeness with bracing acidity. Nebbiolo is also used to make a deeply concentrated Amarone-type wine known as Sfursat. In the Franciacorta, Nebbiolo is a permitted grape variety along with Barbera, Cabernet Franc and Merlot in the rosso wines of the region. Northwest of Piedmont, in the Valle Aosta, some Nebbiolo is grown in the Donnaz region near the border with Carema.

United States

In California, the influence of Italian immigrants in the early history of the state’s wine industry introduced Nebbiolo to the United States in the 19th century. As Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot increased in popularity in the 20th century, Nebbiolo (as well as other Italian grape varieties) steadily decreased in plantings. Today there are scattered plantings of Nebbiolo throughout the state with the majority located in the jug wine producing region of the Central Valley. As California wine producers aim for producing higher quality wines, there has been difficulties in locating ideally suited sites for Nebbiolo and the progress in producing world class California Nebbiolo is considerably behind that of other Italian varietals like Sangiovese, Primitivo and even Barbera and Dolcetto. In Washington State, Nebbiolo was first planted in the Red Willow Vineyard in the Yakima Valley AVA in 1985 with the first varietal release in 1987. As in California, Washington producers are still trying to figure out which sites are best suited to grow Nebbiolo. While the wine is mainly produced as a varietal, some producers make blends with Dolcetto and Syrah added in. Nebbiolo is planted in at least two vineyards in Virginia.

Other regions

In Australia, winemakers found little early success with Nebbiolo as many of the earliest plantings were in sites that turned out to be too warm for the grape. Research into cooler climate sites lead to some favorable examples coming from the marginal climate of Victoria’s King Valley. Further studies have indicated that the Mornington Peninsula in Victoria and the Margaret River area of Western Australia have similar amounts of rainfall, relative humidity and sunshine hours as the Langhe region of Piedmont. Victoria’s Bendigo, South Australia‘s Clare Valley and the Mudgee, New South Wales’s are also currently being explored for their potential with Nebbiolo.

In Ensenada, Mexico, producers (L.A. Cetto) have been experimenting with plantings of Nebbiolo in Baja California near the US border with promising result, there are 100% Nebbiolo wines produced from low yielding plants with very good color and fine qualities, like the wine produced at Arcilla. In South America, early results in Chile have so far produced wines with high acidity and poor color as winemakers work to find which clones are best suited for their climate. The development of Argentine Nebbiolo has been held back by excessively high yields. In Europe, there are some plantings in the Austrian region of Mittelburgenland.

Wines

 Nebbiolo is a late-ripening grape that is responsible for the great wines of Piedmont’s Langhe and Monferrato hills: Barolo and Barbaresco. These are the most coveted of Italian wines among international collectors. Notoriously difficult to cultivate, Nebbiolo tends to be planted in the warmest hillside sites, where drainage is excellent. Barolo comes from Nebbiolo planted on the hills southwest of the town of Alba, while Barbaresco is made from Nebbiolo grown just to the north of Alba. Both of these wines show aromas and flavors including but not limited to cherry, plum, raspberry, licorice, mushroom, and leather. Especially with younger examples, expect plenty of bold tannins: these are big wines. With extended bottle-aging, these wines will mellow and show greater austerity.

Wines made from Nebbiolo are characterized by their ample amounts of acidity and tannin. Most examples are wines built for aging and some of the highest quality vintages need significant age (at least a decade or more) before they are palatable to many wine drinkers and can continue to improve in the bottle for upward of 30 years. As Nebbiolo ages, the bouquet becomes more complex and appealing with aromas of tar and roses being the two most common notes. Other aromas associated with Nebbiolo include dried fruit, damsons, leather, licorice, mulberries, spice as well dried and fresh herbs. While Barolo & Barbaresco tend to be the heaviest and most in need of aging, wines made in the modernist style are becoming more approachable at a young age. Lighter styles from Carema, Langhe and Gattinara tend to be ready drink within a few years of vintage. Nebbiolo from California and Australia will vary from producer and quality of vineyard.

The richness and tannic intensity of top Nebbiolos makes them fine partners for strong flavored grilled meats and stews, as well as dry, aged cheeses.

For Barolo and Barbaresco, 2001 and 2004 stand out among recent vintages. Top producers include, but are not limited to, Vietti, Elio Grasso, Pio Cesare, and Giuseppe Rinaldi.

Synonyms

Nebbiolo has a wide range of synonyms used in various local districts of northwest Italy. In the areas of Novara and Vercelli it is known widely as Spanna. In the Val d’Aosta region and around Carema it is known as Picutener. In Valtellina it is known as Chiavennasca.

The Nebbiolo grape variety is also known under the name Barbesino, Brunenta, Femmina, Lampia, Marchesana, Martesana Melasca, Melaschetto, Melascone, Michet, Monferrina, Morsano di Caraglio, Nebbieul grosso, Nebbieul Maschio, Nebbiolin, Nebbiolin Canavesano, Nebbiolin lungo, Nebbiolin nero, Nebieu, Nebieul, Nebieul fumela, Nebiolo, Nebiolo du Piedmont, Nibieul burghin, Nibio, Nibiol, Nubiola, Pantin, Picot, Picotendre, Picote, Picotenero, Picoultener, Picoutendro Maschio, Počte, Prugnet, Prunent, Prunenta, Pugnet, Rosetta, Spagna, Span, Spana commune, Spana grossa and Uva Spanna..

Snapshot:

Recommended Growing Regions: Piedmont (Italy)

Flavor Profile: Big, bold, tannic red wines

Food Pairings: Grilled meats and stews; dry, aged cheeses

Other Notes: Don’t drink these wines too young, even the more modern styles benefit from some aging

Recommended Wineries for Nebbiolo

  • Pianpolvere Soprano Bussia
  • Bruno Giacosa
  • Gaja
  • Domenico Clerico
  • Luciano Sandrone
  • Giacomo Conterno
  • Roberto Voerzio
  • Vietti
  • Conterno Fantino
  • Bartolo Mascarello

Top rated Nebbiolo wines (??):

  • 2004 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Le Rocche del Falletto Riserva (98 pts)
  • 1996 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto di Serralunga Riserva (98 pts)
  • 2004 Domenico Clerico Barolo Percristina (97 pts)
  • 1996 Gaja Nebbiolo Sperss Langhe (96 pts)
  • 2004 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Asili Riserva (96)pts)
  • 2004 Conterno Fantino Barolo Sori Ginestra (96 pts)
  • 2001 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Le Rocche del Falletto Riserva (96+ pts)
  • 2004 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Le Rocche del Falletto Riserva (in magnum) (96(+)pts)
  • 2006 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo (96 pts)

2007 Conterno Fantino Barolo Sori Ginestra (96 pts)

IV    The charms of lesser Nebbiolo wines

By Jason Wilson, Washington Post, March 29, 2011

Rarely do you find the words “affordable” and “nebbiolo” in the same sentence. You probably don’t even see them very often in the same paragraph. For most of us, the idea of an affordable nebbiolo exists in some alternate realm where we all ride unicorns and no one ever goes bald or gray and the weather is always sunny and 75 degrees with no humidity.

Nebbiolo, after all, is the grape upon which Italy’s two greatest, and priciest, red wines are based: Barbaresco and Barolo. The latter, the so-called “king of wines,” is particularly expensive, with good ones starting around $80 and rising into the hundreds.

Now, I love Barolo, one of the handful of wines in the world that I would call profound. I love it so much that when people ask what my favorite wine is, I often exclaim, “Barolo!” And they nod, and say, “Ah, yes. Barolo, of course.” But saying Barolo is a favorite is very much a misrepresentation of my everyday drinking habits. I mean, how often do I drink it? Outside of professional tastings, when I’m buying wine to serve at home or when I order it in restaurants, I probably have Barolo three or four times a year. Maybe five if I’m particularly flush.

Don’t cry for me. Those times are always memorable. Lately, though, I’ve been interested in finding a way to experience the charms of nebbiolo on a more regular basis. So I’ve been looking for younger nebbiolo wines, or else nebbiolo wines from nontraditional regions.They exist, I promise. Many of them cost $25 or less, and some less than $20.

First, as always with Italian wine, there are a few quick points of geography and winemaking to keep in mind. Nebbiolo (taken from the word “nebbia” or fog) is a finicky grape that grows well in only a few places, most predominantly in Piedmont, the foggy northwest corner of Italy. That is also the same spot where the rare white truffle flourishes, and so we might reasonably assume that something strange and mysterious is going on in the soil there.

Barolo and Barbaresco are produced from 100 percent nebbiolo grapes grown in specific zones near Alba. Beyond geographic specificity, what separates Barolo and Barbaresco are their aging regulations. For instance, Barolo must spend at least a year in oak and then three years aging in the bottle, or at least 57 months for riserva. As a Barolo ages, the color turns brick orange, and its silky tannins, complex aromas of dried rose and violet, of leather and truffle and tar, deep cherry and plum flavors emerge. The finish lasts forever. It’s a wine to meditate, brood and ponder over.

However, nearly every producer of Barolo also makes wine bottled as either Nebbiolo d’Alba or Langhe Nebbiolo. Nebbiolo d’Alba is basically made from the same grapes that would become Barolo, only aged less. Langhe is nebbiolo from an even wider geographic area, but still the same basic neighborhood. These wines are not as complex as Barolo; they’re lighter, fresher, racier and completely enjoyable.

For example, Vietti, one of the most highly regarded Barolo producers, makes a Langhe Nebbiolo called Perbacco, which is so close to the real thing that the winemaker calls it a “baby Barolo.” Perbacco sells for $25. Vietti’s Barolos start at around $80.

Moving away from Alba, but still in Piedmont, look for nebbiolo from Roero, Langhe’s neighboring region. Malvira’s Roero nebbiolos are a wonderful value, and I wish we saw them more often in Washington, Maryland and Virginia. (Attention, local wine shops.)

Leaving Piedmont, the other region where nebbiolo is king is in the mountains of Lombardy, in Valtellina. Here, they call nebbiolo grape Chiavennasca, and the wine’s name is Sforzato di Valtellina, produced by drying the grapes before pressing, in a style similar to amarone. It falls somewhere in price between young nebbiolo and Barolo, but still usually less than $50.

Finally, leaving Italy entirely, some brave souls have attempted to grow nebbiolo in unlikely places such as Mexico (L.A. Cetto); Santa Barbara, Calif. (Palmina); and, closer to home, Virginia (Barboursville Vineyards and Breaux Vineyards). While not playing on the same field as Italy, those wines offer an interesting glimpse into nebbiolo’s potential outside its traditional home.

It’s a bold choice to grow nebbiolo in Virginia. I asked Jason Tesauro of Barboursville Vineyards a simple question: Why? He replied that his part of Virginia is also called Piedmont, and so why not?

“Nebbiolo is my desert island grape,” he says. “If I had to pick one grape only for the rest of my life, this is it.”

Given that as the reason, I can certainly understand the impulse to want to grow nebbiolo in Virginia. Or anywhere else.

Chateau La Caminade – La Comanderie Malbec 2008 – Appellation Cahors.

13 Friday May 2011

Posted by ClubVino in Member's Forum, Wine Regions

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Chateau La Caminade – La Comanderie Malbec 2008 – Appellation Cahors. Wine Enthusiast “Cellar Selection”

Alfonso Sanchez

This wine undergoes the strictest of winemaking regimens. Leafs are thinned and yield is limited so that overcropping does not occur. The grapes are 100% destalked and sorted followed by a long maceration and maturation in oak barrels of which 50% are new each year. This wine can be drank now and would do well with decanting or breathing for a bit. Given a bit of air or cellar time, it offers a robust and rich impression that calls for hearty red meat and goes down miraculously easy! La Commandery is textbook Cahors, with nuances of deep plum, black currant, smoke and licorice notes on both the nose and palate. Family-run since 1895, Chateau la Caminade has been setting standards for Cahors since it gained AOC status in 1971. This 100% Old Vine Malbec bottling of red wine is powerful and concentrated with hints of stones and smoke in the aroma. Dark berry fruit carries through a long, well-structured palate. Cahors was made famous in the 18th Century as the “Black” wine of France and is no doubt part of the cultural history that motivated Argentines to plant this wonderful grape. “Toasty aromas are followed on the palate by intense black fruits, tannins, and wood. It’s an impressive, powerful wine with a complex structure.” Wine Enthusiast 93 Pts


Cahors Region: Quick Fact: Name: Appellation   Cahors Controlée. Location: Largely west of the city of Cahors on both banks of the Lot River. Vineyards: 472 grape growers. Size of the vineyards: 4,250 ha (10,400 acres). Production volume: 30 million bottles Red wine only. Soil: Various: Clayey-limestone, limestone, siliceous and chalky soils. Weather: Continental with very hot, long, dry summers and very cold, dry winters.


Location, soils and climate: The Cahors wine region is located in the Lot Valley It is a compact area that is 60 kms long by 30 kms wide and comprising of 4250 acres with 45 villages. Cahors lies between the 44th and 45th Parallels, being equidistant (200 km) from the Atlantic, the Mediterranean and the Pyrenees (north of Toulouse and east of Bordeaux). This geographical position ensures that the vineyard is protected from both the Atlantic humidity and the Mediterranean downpours in the autumn thus resulting in a ripening of the crop without rain, through a sunny late summer. However the region is a land of extreme weather conditions. Summers can be very hot and dry, with winters that are cold and dry, and they can be very cold indeed. In February 1956 the big freeze was so bad and so long that all the vines were virtually wiped out. This resulted in the region being replanted with quality vines on virus-free rootstock. Hence the oldest vines in the region are now 60 years old. The vineyards are situated on either the sheltered terraces of the Lot Valley with alluvial deposits along with gravel and chalky stone deposits; on the slopes, where it is mainly deposits of quartz pebbles, gravel and chalky stones; or on the limestone plateau of the Causse, where the soil was formed by sea deposits comprising clay with rocky limestone with a high red iron-oxide content.

The Wines: Cahors wine has a bright, often deep red color tending to be almost black in some vintages. Hence the term “Black wine of Cahors”. It is a tannic wine, very full in the mouth. With age it becomes more refined, velvety and attains some very distinguished aromas such as leather, chocolate, plums and tobacco. Blending with merlot has produced much more ready-to-drink wines.

Grape Varieties: Malbec (locally called Cot or Auxerrois). Malbec gives Cahors wine its tannin, black colour and ability to age. Traditionally must account for 70% of total vine stock. Merlot. Merlot gives roundness, mellowness and bouquet to Cahors wine. Tannat. Tannat is a grape of the South west of France (Madiran) big on tannins and long aging.


Vineyards Management: Modern vineyard management is evident in the Cahors wine region. Largely due to replanting after the 1956 frost, the move has been to multi-wire trellises with steel standards. Vine training and positioning ends to be using the vertical shoot position method with leaf plucking evident. On the terraces of the Lot, the vineyards are made of subsoil composed of old alluvium and limestone plateau with clay and marl. Vineyards are often cultivated with grass between rows or at least every second row. Soil consisting of broken limestone with marl and clay. 30 year old vines shown.

French versus Argentine Malbec: You be the Judge

06 Friday May 2011

Posted by Cecilio Augusto Berndsen in Member's Forum, Opinons, Varietals, Wine Regions, Wines

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French versus Argentine Malbec: You be the Judge
(The Washington Post, 11/May/2011).
Aporte de Juan Luis
Todo indica que mañana tendremos un lindo día primaveral para la degustación de Malbecs. Hace unos días mi amigo Dave McIntyre me prometió que publicaría un artículo sobre Malbecs antes del jueves. Hoy cumplió y tenemos un artículo en el WP. Les hago un resumen:
1. “At Vinexpo 2009 a parade of Argentine winemakers came by to sample ‘the French Malbec’. It was a remarkable scene, a French wine region on the counterattack against a New World upstart that had stolen its marketing thunder by producing a wildly successful wine with the same grape whose French version had languished in obscurity.”
2. “In France, Malbec has an identity crisis. It traditionally was grown in 30 provinces and had almost as many names. The Bordelais called the grape “malbec” and made it part of their traditional blend, but it fell increasingly into disfavor because it was difficult to ripen in the humid climate. In the Loire it is known as Cot but plays a second fiddle to cabernet franc. Its most hospitable ground is in Cahors, midway between the Atlantic and the Mediterranean, where it traditionally was known as Auxerrois. This diversity of nomenclature is no big deal for the French, who emphasize wine’s region of origin over grape variety. But the rest of the world went the other way, and Malbec became known as the grape of Argentina, and the Andes foothills seen as its natural homeland.”
3. ” Argentina also invested heavily in Malbec and now grows more than 70% of the world’s production of that grape. France is a distant second, with just under 20%.”
4. ” The winemakers of Cahors responded to Argentina’s success by embracing ‘Malbec’ as the name of their grape and displaying it prominently in the label. They have also increasingly bottled their wines as 100% Malbec, though the appellation law allows some merlot and tannat in the blend.
On the other hand the Argentines are beginning to appreciate what other grapes can contribute to Malbec’s finesse”.
5. “Buy a bottle of Cahors and one of your favorite Malbecs from Argentina at a comparable price, and compare the two. They are likely to be strikingly different. Argentina tends toward a polished New World style, with new oak prominent to varying degrees and what I call disappearing tannins by which I mean you can sense them in the inherent structure of the wine but you don’t necessarily feel them on your tongue and teeth.
The French expression on the other hand, is more earthy. New oak is not a prominent. The flavors and textures are a bit more rustic and chewy, and they often get even better a day or two after the cork is pulled.
And yet both Cahors and Argentina feature Malbec’s essential flavors of blueberry, cherry, and plums. One style is not necessarily better than the other; they are just delightfully different.”
El autor del excelente artículo recomienda los siguientes Cahors (dice que no recomienda nada de Argentina ya que todos son buenos):
a. Clos La Coutale Cahors 2008. $ 18
b. Cosse Maisonneuve Le Combal $ 22
c. Mission La Caminade Malbec-Merlot $ 10
d. Cedre Heritage Malbec 2009 $ 15
e. Cotes d’oit Cuvee Tradition 2008 $ 10
f. Chateau de Gaudou Tradition 2008 $ 12
Espero que la información les resulte de interés y de valor para la degustación de mañana
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