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Author Archives: Alfonso Sanchez

Tasting No. 69 – January 12, 2020 – Piedmont Grapes, Gavi and Nebiolo

07 Friday Feb 2020

Posted by Alfonso Sanchez in Tasting Meetings

≈ Leave a comment

 

 Capri Ristorante – McLean, VA

By Megan Mallen – Flickr: Piemonte, Italy, CC BY 2.0,https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=16210509

TASTING OVERVIEW

The objective of these tasting is to assess and compare three Nebiolo-based wines from Piedmont, Italy and assess one Cortese white from the same region.

TYPE : Blind

  1. 2018 Principessa Gavia, Cortese, Gavi, Piedmont 
  2. 2015 Mauro Veglio, Barolo, DOGC, Piedmont 
  3. 2014 Giribaldi, Barolo, DOCG, Piedmont 
  4. 2016 Travaglini, Gattinara, DOCG, Piedmont

THE MENU

  1. Mixed greens salad with raisins and vinaigrette
  2. Butternut squash ravioli
  3. Wild mushrooms risotto
  4. Lamb with roasted vegetables and potatoes
  5. Dessert and/or coffee

PRESENTERS: Orlando Mason and Ricardo Santiago

PARTICIPANTS: Orlando Mason, Orlando Reos, Alfonso Sanchez, Jairo Sanchez, Ricardo Santiago

INFORMATION ON THE WINES

(All information obtained and condensed from several Internet articles.)

2018 Principessa Gavia, Cortese, Gavi, Piedmont 

The Wine: (WE) This has a subdued nose offering whiffs of honeydew. The simple palate offers green apple and lemon zest alongside vigorous acidity.

Winemaker Notes: Brilliant straw yellow color. The bouquet is intense, floral and fruity. In the mouth, the roundness is well balanced by a touch of acidity. Good persistence.  An aperitif wine, excellent with hors d’oeuvres and seafood.

The Winery: (Wine.com). In 1979, John and Harry Mariani, owners of Banfi Vintners, established the the Principessa Gavia estate. Just a few kilometers from the town of Strevi in Italy’s Piedmont region, this vineyard estate is dedicated exclusively to the cultivation of the Cortese di Gavi grape, the sole white grape used to make Principessa Gavia Gavi and the light frizzante Principessa Perlante.

Among Piedmont’s most historical and respected white wine producing zones, Gavi—also known as Gavi di Gavi and Cortese di Gavi—comes from Piedmont’s southeast, in the province of Alessandria. Gavi is the main town of the area; Cortese is the grape. Cortese for Gavi is grown in any of 11 communes in the area where the soils are abundant in chalky, white, limestone-rich clay. The best Gavi from these locations are delicately floral, with stone fruit and citrus characters and a crisp, mineral-laden finish.

While typically made in a fresh and unoaked style, by law Gavi can come in many forms: frizzante, spumante, metodo classico and méthode ancestrale. But most producers maintain a conventional winemaking practice of temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel and make fresh, still whites. However, there are several barrique-aged examples, which can be interesting. The biodynamic wines of Gavi, fermented with ambient yeasts can be the most expressive.

Read More about the winery here: https://castellobanfi.com/en/wines/banfi-wines/piedmont.php#secondo_blocco

 

2015 Mauro Veglio, Barolo, DOCG, Piedmont  

The Wine: Winemaker Notes: Ruby red of medium intensity and garnet red hues. Aromas are intense, harmonic, with ethereal and captivating nuances and a final note of red fruit. Balanced, with good persistence; already drinking well. Finishes with polished tannins and a delicate vanilla aftertaste. 

Wines and Spirits: This combines fruit from plots in the La Morra and Monforte d’Alba communes to make a fruit-forward, juicy Barolo laced with notes of licorice and vanilla bean. Ample acidity and supple tannins make it approachable in its youth. 

(Wine.com) Responsible for some of the most elegant and age-worthy wines in the world, Nebbiolo, named for the ubiquitous autumnal fog (called nebbia in Italian), is the star variety of northern Italy’s Piedmont region. Grown throughout the area, as well as in the neighboring Valle d’Aosta and Valtellina, it reaches its highest potential in the Piedmontese villages of Barolo, Barbaresco and Roero. Outside of Italy, growers are still very much in the experimentation stage but some success has been achieved in parts of California. Somm Secret—If you’re new to Nebbiolo, start with a charming, wallet-friendly, early-drinking Langhe Nebbiolo or Nebbiolo d’Alba.

The Winery: (Wine.com) Their families were farmers for many generations, like many other families in the Langhe. In 1992, Mauro began to drastically reduce the number of grapes per hectare and started to vinify on his own in his new cantina. He utilized shorter macerations with temperature controlled rotary-fermenters and aging in small oak barrels, and he started to produce, little by little, wines that were more elegant with higher quality grapes.

Unlike the tendency of contemporary philosophy production which means the same as manipulating nature, they believe in natural systems of cultivation and vinification: they reject the use of chemical fertilizers or pesticides in their vineyards. Any chemical process is refused in the winemaking as well as any artificial concentration or aromatization: this means that the quality of the wine is the result of the natural character of the vineyards, their soil composition and microclimatic differences determining the maturity of the individual vintages. The result is the authentic essence of their “terroir” in a glass.

Read more here: http://www.mauroveglio.com/en/winery

2014 Giribaldi, Barolo, DOCG, Piedmont 

The Wine: (WE) Dark berry, vanilla and toasted oak sensations lead the nose. The linear palate delivers black plum, mocha and clove alongside grainy tannins that lead to a mouth-puckering the finish. Drink after 2022.

A ruby red colour with garnet reflexes. On the nose wild roses, raspberries and cinnamon. In the mouth it is dry and warm with sensations of vanilla, tobacco, leather and green tea leaves.

The Winery: The Giribaldi winery began at the beginning of the 20th century and has been producing wines for three generations. In those days, times were hard, and agriculture was not only a means of income but also a real pride for those who loved their land even though it made them suffer so much. It was normal for them to make sacrifices for the land they brought up on. Giribaldi produces organic wines. “Today, “organic” may seem like a market trend. However, for our winery “organic” means something very different. We started our organic grape growing back in 2001, and we obtained our first organic certification in 2004. This makes us one of the first organic wine producers.”

Read more about this winery here: https://vinigiribaldi.it/en/

2016 Travaglini, Gattinara, DOCG, Piedmont 

The Wine:The Gattinara best expresses the classic qualities of the appellation; it is a wine with marked minerality and complexity.Deep ruby red in color with garnet reflections. On the nose, aromas of red fruit, blackberry, plum and licorice with hints of vanilla and leather. Full-bodied palate, with intense flavors of cherry, raspberry and spice culminating in a long and smooth finish. Outstanding with red meat, game, and hard cheeses. Recommended aging from 3 to 10 years, but this wine will easily maintain its integrity for years following.

The Winery: (from Taubfamilyselecctions.com) The Travaglini family has been producing remarkable, limited-production wines from their estate in Gattinara for four generations. Gattinara plays an important role in Italian viticulture, but until a couple decades after the turn of the century, this beautiful region of Alto Piemonte was nearly forgotten. A winemaking region older than Barolo, Gattinara covered almost 600 hectares by the end of the 1800’s, making it one of the largest in Northern Europe. The phylloxera plague, coupled with a devastating hail storm in 1905, completely destroyed the region and wine production in Gattinara was abandoned.

The Travaglini family has owned land in Gattinara since the beginning of the 19th century. They farmed a few hectares of land and produced wine for local consumption. The small winery started with Clemente Travaglini, who was succeeded by his son Arturo. It was not until 1958 however, when Arturo’s son, Giancarlo, established the Travaglini Estate Winery. It was Giancarlo who recognized a greater potential in Gattinara and executed groundbreaking changes in his vineyards and cellar, unseen before in the appellation. For example, he pioneered research into improving viticultural methods, such as high density planting (up to 5,000/HA), 100% hand-harvesting and Guyot vine training; today commonly practiced throughout the Appellation. His passion for Nebbiolo helped raise the profile of Gattinara, a commitment that has been carried on through the generations.

The Travaglini family owns 59 hectares of vineyards; 52 of which are dedicated to vines, primarily Nebbiolo, which covers roughly 50% of the total Gattinara DOCG. A small portion of old vines, is planted to native varieties Vespolina and Bonarda.

This small appellation lies in the rocky foothills of the Monte Rosa range, where ventilating winds blow down from the nearby Alps. Soils are rocky and rich in porphyry, granit and iron, imparting a reddish color in the soil. Similar in composition to the Alps, Monte Rosa’s sedimentary rocks is highly acidic, due to low levels of calcium carbonate and magnesium, and an absence of calcium. Vines grown in this rare soil produce grapes with a unique flavor profile, as well high acidity and tannins. Its northern, mountainous location experiences a continental climate, with very cold winters, warm, sunny summers, and a strong diurnal temperature shift.

Following traditional red wine fermentation in stainless steel tanks at controlled temperature, the wine is aged for 3 years: 2 years in used Slavonian oak casks of different sizes. The wine then rests for 3 months in bottle.

 

Read more here:

 VINOTABLES RATINGS FOR THIS TASTING:

The quality of all the reds was found from very good to excellent.  There was consensus that the best wine was the Mauro Veglio in terms of overall elegance, structure and balance.  All the reds have good potential to improve over time. The Gavia Cortese turned out surprisingly good for the price.  Good acidity, minerals and fruit, refreshing and easy to drink.

View full evaluation here: 69 Summary of Tasting Scores

ADDITIONAL NOTES

Barolo: (Wine.com) The center of the production of the world’s most exclusive and age-worthy red wines made from Nebbiolo, the Barolo region includes five core townships: La Morra, Monforte d’Alba, Serralunga d’Alba, Castiglione Falletto and the Barolo village itself, as well as a few outlying villages. The landscape of Barolo, characterized by prominent and castle-topped hills, is full of history and romance centered on the Nebbiolo grape. Its wines, with the signature “tar and roses” aromas, have a deceptively light garnet color but full presence on the palate and plenty of tannins and acidity. In a well-made Barolo, one can expect to find complexity and good evolution with notes of, for example, strawberry, cherry, plum, leather, truffle, anise, fresh and dried herbs, tobacco and violets.

There are two predominant soil types here, which distinguish Barolo from the lesser surrounding areas. Compact and fertile Tortonian sandy marls define the vineyards farthest west and at higher elevations. Typically the Barolo wines coming from this side, from La Morra and Barolo, can be approachable relatively early on in their evolution and represent the “feminine” side of Barolo, often closer in style to Barbaresco with elegant perfume and fresh fruit.

On the eastern side of the region, Helvetian soils of compressed sandstone and chalks are less fertile, producing wines with intense body, power and structured tannins. This more “masculine” style comes from Monforte d’Alba and Serralunga d’Alba. The township of Castiglione Falletto covers a spine with both soils types.

Nebiolo is a black grape with high levels of acidity and tannins but little color. In the Barolo wine region, the grapes ripen slowly in the steep south-facing slopes developing perfumed aromas of sour cherries, herbs and sometimes dried flowers. In the best years, the wines are full-bodied with high acidity and tannins and they have the ability to develop in the bottle. Today, improvements in vineyard management and gentler methods of extraction results in wines with smoother, riper tannins, and mean that many producers now choose to mature their wines for shorter periods of time. [WSET, Understanding wines: Explaining style and quality.]

The name Nebbiolo drives from nebbia, Italian for ‘fog’, probably referring to the thick, natural bloom covering the ripe berries, as if they were covered in a layer of fog. … in very general terms unadulterated Nebbiolo tends to be light in colour, turning orange with bottle age rather faster than most other red wine varieties, to be high in both acid and (especially) tannin, and to exhibit a haunting array of aromas which might include tar, cordite, leaf mould, dried cherries, liquorice, violets and rose. [Jancis Robinson et al., Wine Grapes.]

Cortese (Wine Searcher) is a white grape variety that is most famous for its role in the crisp, lime-scented wines of Gavi. The variety is known for its bracingly high acidity and its ability to retain freshness, even when grown in hot environments. Apple, peach and honeydew flavors are commonly associated with Cortese wine, with lime, almond and light herbal or grassy aromas.

In the Gavi wine region, the vines are grown in hills where the altitude and sea breezes result in long, slow ripening of Cortese grapes, emphasizing its natural high acidity and floral character. The wines are pale and light-bodied, with high acidity and aromas, and flavours of citrus, green apples and pears.

Cortese must be watched carefully in the vineyard to ensure success: it is a vigorous, productive vine and if yields are not kept in check then the wines can be bland and lacking in character. Ripeness is another key issue – while it does well in Gavi’s warm environs, it can struggle to ripen fully in other parts of Piedmont. This leads to wines with almost unmanageably high acidity, which is why Cortese is used more often as a minor blending grape outside of its home town.

Some producers use malolactic fermentation to mitigate the variety’s high acidity, but it is usually produced in a crisp, dry style. High acidity can be useful to growers as well. Cortese is sometimes used to make sparkling wines.

 

(Wine.com) 

Tasting No. 68 – January 15, 2020 – Zinfandel

12 Sunday Jan 2020

Posted by Alfonso Sanchez in Tasting Meetings

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Tags

California, Loire, muscadet, Zinfandel

 

 Capri Ristorante – McLean, VA

Lodi Wineries Signs – Source: Wikimedia

TASTING OVERVIEW:

Zinfandel is one of the classic wines of California, where it has been popular since Gold Rush days. The red Zinfandel grape thrives in warm climate regions, most notably portions of the Central and Sonoma valleys. When fully ripe, Zinfandel grapes contain high amounts of sugar, which can be completely fermented to create a dry and fairly high-alcohol wine, or be left in part as a trace of residual sweetness.

Zinfandel wine made in the traditional fashion may be unoaked, easy-drinking and jammy, or oak-aged and full bodied. Old-vine versions can be particularly intense and rich. Expect flavors of black fruits and spice in all. The full flavors and bit of sweetness make Zinfandel a great match for grilled and barbecued meats, especially those cooked in sweet or tomato-based sauces.Despite its firm foothold in California, Zinfandel is thought to have originated in Croatia. Recent research determined that Primitivo, a grape long grown in Southern Italy to produce full-bodied and fruity red wines, is actually Zinfandel.

The Objective of this tasting is to assess three Zinfandels from different  AVAs (regions) in Claifornia.

 

TYPE : Blind

  1. 2018 Muscadet Sévre & Maine, Sur Lie, Chateau du Jaunay, Loire
  2. 2016 Sobon Estate Reserve Zinfandel, Plymouth, California
  3. 2017  Macchia, Mischievous, Zinfandel, Old Vines, Lodi, California
  4. 2015 Ridge, Ponzo, Zinfandel, Russian River, Somoma County, California

THE MENU

  1. Mussels in white wine sauce 
  2. Caprese Salad
  3. Penne with vegetables in tomato sauce 
  4. Chicken Marsala 
  5. Dessert and/or coffee

PRESENTERS: Jorge García-García, Orlando Reos

PARTICIPANTS:

Mario Aguilar, Juan Luis Colaiacovo, Jorge García, Orlando Mason, Orlando Reos, Alfonso Sanchez, Jairo Sánchez, Ricardo Santiago, Peter Scherer

INFORMATION ON THE WINES

(All information obtained and condensed from several Internet articles.)

2018 Muscadet Sévre & Maine Sur Lie, Chateau du Jaunay, Loire

The Wine: Muscadet, Loire, France- What a bouquet! Vibrant aromas of lime, flowers, grapefruit, melon and fig in the bouquet. The palate follows the aromas with hints of red grapefruit and lime that finish with a refreshing crispness. Try it with raw oysters on the half shell.

Melon de Bourgogne (known simply as Melon in the United States) is the white grape synonymous with the Muscadet appellation in the western Loire Valley. The variety has naturally high acidity, but often struggles to achieve good concentration of flavor. The best wines show apple and citrus flavors, with underlying mineral notes. A saltiness can sometimes identified in the wine, suggestive of the region’s maritime geography.

The Winery: No information available for this winery

2016 Sobon Estate Reserve Zinfandel, Plymouth, California 

The Wine: Winemaker Notes From Paul Sobon’s own hand-farmed sustainably grown 84 year-old vineyard come this classic Sierra Foothills Zin. Medium to full-bodied, bright garnet, with effusive, perfume aromatics. This silky, well integrated wine has laser beam fruit that literally explodes on the pallet. The flavors are reminiscent of fresh blueberries, wild blackberries and ripe summer plums with hints of toasty vanilla, anise and white pepper and a rich, elegant finish. Proportion and balance define this limited release. This rich, zesty offering is best enjoyed with spicy, heartier fare such as Hunan style beef, Texas style baby back ribs and lamb burger sliders with melted Gruyere cheese.Serve with ribs or lamb; or my favorite – Duck Confit. Blend: 90% Zinfandel, 10% Petite Sirah

The Winery: (From Wine.com) Shenandoah Vineyards in Plymouth, CA, was founded in 1977 by Shirley and Leon Sobon. They moved from Los Altos, California, where Leon was a Senior Scientist with the Lockheed Research Lab. Leon’s gift for home winemaking led him to leave Lockheed and begin a new career as a Winemaker. The selection of a winery site in the Shenandoah Valley of Amador County was well researched. Leon and Shirley moved to the old Steiner Ranch, outside Plymouth, CA, planted a vineyard, and converted the old stone garage to the Shenandoah Vineyards winery. Sobon Estate was formed with the purchase of the D’Agostini winery in 1989.

As the lower part of the greater Sierra Foothills appellation, Amador is roughly a plateau whose vineyards grow at 1,200 to 2,000 feet in elevation. It is 100 miles east of both San Francisco and Napa Valley. Most of its wineries are in the oak-studded rolling hillsides of Shenandoah Valley or east in Fiddletown, where elevations are slightly higher. Most Amador vines are planted in volcanic soils derived primarily from sandy clay loam and decomposed granite. Summer days are hot but nighttime temperatures typically drop 30 degrees and the humidity is low, making this an ideal environment for grape growing. Because there is adequate rain throughout the year and even snow in the winter, dry farming is possible.

Read more here: http://sobonwine.com/

2017  Macchia, Mischievous, Zinfandel, Old Vines, Lodi, California

The Wine: (From: Wine-Searcher) Lodi Appellation grows a wide variety of grapes, but Zinfandel is the undisputed King.  It is not hard to find 50, 60, 70 even 100-year-old vineyards dotting the landscape.  It is from these grapes that some of California’s Best Zinfandels are produced.  This Mischievous blend uses multiple Old Vine Zinfandel vineyards that when combined, produce the classic, fruit-forward characteristics that are the centerpiece of all great Lodi wines.  Just a touch of Petite Sirah adds structure, as well as, increasing its complexity.  Aging in small oak barrels creates a soft vanilla finish making it a very food-friendly wine that can be enjoyed daily with everything from rich pasta to a juicy barbecued steak.

The Winery: Lodi AVA, part of the larger Central Valley wine region of California, is located directly east of San Francisco Bay between the cities of Sacramento and Stockton. The west of the region lies close to the edge of the Sacramento-San Joaquin Delta, while its eastern boundary runs parallel with the Sierra Foothills. Although quite a distance from the coast (the Pacific lies 70 miles/115km to the west), Lodi is blessed with a more moderate, Mediterranean-style climate than might be expected for somewhere this far inland. This is thanks to the many rivers which run through the AVA and the creeks, estuaries and bays into which they flow.

The rivers are not the only factor keeping temperatures down in Lodi; topography plays a vital role too. While most areas of inland California are separated from the Pacific by California’s Coastal Ranges, Lodi is not. The Bay Area forms a significant gap which allows on-shore breezes to penetrate many miles inland. The Golden Gate (the narrow strait spanned by the eponymous bridge) is the funnel neck of this gap, and is famously characterized by stiff sea breezes and the fog they carry inland, up into the low-lying valleys east of San Francisco.Those parts of the region which are closer to the Delta are noticeably cooler, although most of Lodi enjoys warm days and is suited to the production of full-flavored red wines. Mineral-rich, free-draining, sandy clay soils help in the production of quality wines, not just the bulk wine common in the Central Valley.

Modern-day Lodi vineyards are planted with a classic make-up of California’s favourite varieties. Red Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot are complemented by Chardonnay, Viognier and Sauvignon Blanc. Although much less common, Petite Sirah, Cabernet Franc, Tempranillo, Graciano, Riesling and Albarino also appear in Lodi wines.

One of Lodi’s former stalwarts was the unusual Flame Tokay, otherwise known as Ahmeur bou Ahmeur. Of North African origin, this robust red variety had traditionally been used around Lodi to make fortified wines and brandy. There are no commercial plantings anymore.

Read more about here: https://www.macchiawines.com/home.html

2015 Ridge, Ponzo, Zinfandel, Russian River, Somoma County, California

The Wine: Winemaker Notes: Favorable spring weather helped set a full crop at the Ponzo vineyard. The temperate climate of the Russian River Valley typically delays harvest into October, but by early September the grapes were fully ripe. After a natural yeast fermentation, we chose the Old Vines block for its structure and the Front and Back blocks for their intense fruit and aromatics. This sumptuous zinfandel will be best over the next six years. Blend: 97% Zinfandel, 3% Petite Sirah

The Winery: (From: Wine.com) Ridge Vineyards is a Californian wine producer based in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Its flagship wine, Monte Bello, is a Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated Bordeaux blend known for delivering the complexity and elegance of Bordeaux wines, as well as typical California fruit intensity. This wine has earned numerous awards and accolades over the years.

While Ridge is best known for its Cabernet, it is also well known for its range of Zinfandel wines and Zinfandel-based blends, led by the Geyserville cuvée. Wines made from Petite Sirah, Carignan and a Grenache – Mataro blend also feature in the range, and Ridge has made a small amount of Chardonnay each vintage for many decades.

A standout region for its decidedly Californian take on Burgundian varieties, the Russian River Valley is named for the eponymous river that flows through it. While there are warm pockets of the AVA, it is mostly a cool-climate growing region thanks to breezes and fog from the nearby Pacific Ocean.

Chardonnay and Pinot Noir reign supreme in Russian River, with the best examples demonstrating a unique combination of richness and restraint. The cool weather makes Russian River an ideal AVA for sparkling wine production, utilizing the aforementioned varieties. Zinfandel also performs exceptionally well here. Within the Russian River Valley lie the smaller appellations of Chalk Hill and Green Valley. The former, farther from the ocean, is relatively warm, with a focus on red and white Bordeaux varieties. The latter is the coolest, foggiest parcel of the Russian River Valley and is responsible for outstanding Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

Read more here: https://www.ridgewine.com/

 VINOTABLES RATINGS FOR THIS TASTING:

View full evaluation here: 68 Summary of Tasting Scores

Tasting No. 67 – September 18, 2019 – Rhone Blends from Central Coast USA

08 Sunday Sep 2019

Posted by Alfonso Sanchez in Tasting Meetings

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Tags

Bonny Doon, California, Central Coast, Chateauneuf du Pape, Paso Robles, Rhone Blends, Tablas Creek

 

 Capri Ristorante – McLean, VA

Tablas Creek Vineyards

TASTING OVERVIEW 

This blind presentation’s objective is to compare red blends from the Central Coast in the USA against a Chateauneuf Du Pape, the reference wine, of similar price and quality. We will be tasting also a Rhone Blend white.

The Central Coast is a large encompassing American Viticultural Area (AVA) that extends from the south of San Francisco all the way to Santa Barbara, California. The region contains 40 AVAs including Paso Robles, Santa Cruz Mountains, Monterey, and Santa Barbara and each of these sub-regions specializes in different types and expressions of wine.

During the last 20 years, a group of producers in the California Central Coast have been traveling the Châteauneuf road. There are now many California red wines blended in the style of the southern Rhone. There has been a growing interest in Grenache, Mourvèdre and other grapes of the southern Rhone.  The Central Coast — especially Santa Barbara, Monterey and, increasingly, Paso Robles and Edna Valley in San Luis Obispo County — are proving to be prime sources for Rhone-style wines. From Carneros to Santa Barbara, California winemakers have consistently proven that the state excels with Rhône varieties. It makes perfect sense that grapes like Syrah and Viognier thrive here, as the climate is like that of the Rhône, with warm, dry summers and cooling winds.

The two hottest trending wines in California in recent years have been white Roussanne and red Grenache.  Roussanne, relatively new to California, has a savory yet fruit-driven character, Grenache is more exuberant, with plenty of fruit and acidity, very good in blends. Grenache and Roussanne are just two of the many Rhône varietals that thrive in Santa Barbara County, with great Syrah also coming from Ballard Canyon.  Fragrant and savory, more producers are discovering how to coax complexity from Syrah, the ultimate Rhône grape, and craft beautifully balanced wines.

An inspiration for many of these producers has been Château de Beaucastel, one of the greatest producers of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, particularly for Tablas Creek, a partnership between an American importer, and the owners of the Chateau. Its vineyard was planted on land in the western part of Paso Robles chosen for its resemblance to Châteauneuf

TYPE : Blind to rank the wines and then open to compare the Central Coast reds with the reference wine.

  1. 2015 Bonny Doon, Le Cigare Blanc, White Rhone Style Blend, Arroyo Seco Monterrey
  2. 2016 Les Halos de Jupiter, Chauteneauf du Pape
  3. 2013 Bonny Doon,Le Cigare Volant, Red Rhone Style Blend, Central Coast
  4. 2015 Tablas Creek Esprit de Tablas Rouge, Paso Robles

THE MENU

  1. Prince Edward Mussels, sauteed in saffron sauce with toasted bread
  2. Portobello al forno.  Baked Portobello with fresh tomatoes and mozzarella served with grilled zucchini
  3. Ravioli Di Vitelo. Homemade Ravioli filled with veal and mozzarella in aurora sauce.
  4. Grilled steak in red wine sauce with vegetables and sauteed potatoes.
  5. Dessert and/or coffee

PRESENTERS: Orlando Mason, Alfonso Sanchez

PARTICIPANTS: Mario Aguilar, Juan Luis Colaiacovo, Jorge García, Orlando Mason, Italo Mirkow, Orlando Reos, Alfonso Sanchez, Peter Scherer

INFORMATION ON THE WINES

(All information obtained and condensed from several Internet articles.)

2015 Bonny Doon Le Cigare Blanc, Arroyo Seco, Monterrey

The Wine: Winemaker Notes: Since 2003, Bonny Doon has produced this blend of Grenache Blanc and Roussanne derived from a single vineyard source, the Beeswax Vineyard in the Arroyo Seco region of Monterey County. Farmed organically, surrounded by wilderness, and shielded from the cool Pacific Coast winds by the Santa Lucia Mountains, Beeswax Vineyard grows complex, concentrated and mineral intensive grapes from deeply rooted vines.Blend: 55% Grenache Blanc, 36% Roussanne, 9% Picpoul

WS: Offers a smooth, spicy mix of toasted coconut, Meyer lemon, peach cobbler and mango flavors on an appealing, fleshy frame, with a juicy punctuation point.

The Winery: Read More about the winery here: https://www.bonnydoonvineyard.com/about/history/

2016 Halos de Jupiter Chateauneuf du Pape 

The Wine: Enticing whiffs of game, leather and dried herbs lend savory complexity to plush mulberry, plum and dried-strawberry flavors in this opulent, full-figured red. It’s a rounded, voluminous wine with a slightly warming finish and ripe but grippy tannins. It needs a few years to integrate but should drink well from 2020–2030. Very old Grenache (over 100 years old) located between Orange and Courthezon. The blend is 85% Grenache, 10% Syrah & 5% Mourvèdre. Although this wine could be enjoyed young, it will only develop its full character much later. It will keep its freshness for at least 20 years after bottling.

The grapes are harvested at advanced maturity. This initial sorting at the plot is followed by a second at the winery to keep only the finest grapes. Vinification: The grapes are scraped but not crushed. Extraction very soft, just by manual punching and fermentation of about 5 weeks at a temperature regulated at 28 ° C. Grenache and Mourvèdre are assembled after malolactic fermentation and then aged in cement tanks for one year. To preserve its personality and intensity, this wine has not been filtered or glued.

The Winery: The Halos de Jupiter are a collaboration between the southern Rhône’s renowned oenologist Philippe Cambie, and the talented winemaker Michel Gassier. But above all it’s a story of friendship and shared passions: rugby, gastronomy, and Rhone wines, particularly those from Grenache. For Michel and Philippe, Grenache is the king of varietals of the southern Rhône. Together, they selected the appellations that offer Grenache the potential to reveal the unique and intrinsic qualities of each: Châteauneuf du Pape, Gigondas, Vacqueyras, Côtes du Rhône and Costières de Nîmes. Dedicated to the highest quality, these wines from some of the Valley’s best winegrowers, express their respect for the land and Michel and Philippe’s search for a hedonistic balance.

Read more here: https://www.halosdejupiter.com/en/wine/chateauneuf-du-pape/

2013 Bonny Doon, Le Cigare Volant, Red Rhone Style Blend, Central Coast

The Wine: Winemaker Notes: The 30th Anniversary release of this, their flagship wine. A beautiful wine—dark and mulberry in color as in nose. One scents cool loamy earth with suggestions of raspberries and Damson plums. This largely Grenache vintage of Cigare has an unmistakable spiciness to it—orange peel, cinnamon and black pepper. Grenache is not just about fragrance however; any synesthete worth his/her Maldon salt will know that the scent of Grenache is in part highly textural—soft and velveteen. And sure enough, on the palate the wine is also an essence of velours.

Grenache adds rich black fruit flavors and a discreet spiciness. Syrah is principally sourced from Bien Nacido vineyard in Santa Maria Valley, which produces the closest analogue we have found to a Northern Rhône Syrah—tannic and meaty in the lower registers; peppery, fruitful and delicately floral in the top, all the while showing great balance and harmony. A select group of non-irrigated, centenarian Contra Costa vineyards continues to provide Mourvèdre for Cigare. A touch of Cinsaut provides a very particular fragrance of flowers and aromatic herbs.

Blend: 55% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 16% Mourvedre, and 4% Cinsaut.

WE: The blend….offers subtle mulberry fruit on the nose, a spicy peppercorn kick and plenty of gamy meats. That funky meat quality, from raw to jerkied, is prominent and pure on the sip, surrounded by exotic plums and Middle Eastern spices.

The Winery: Read more about here:

2015 Tablas Creek Esprit de Tablas Rouge, Paso Robles 

The Wine: Winemaker Notes. The 2015 Esprit de Tablas has an inviting nose of warm berry compote, given complexity by sun-drenched bay leaf and newly turned earth: Mourvedre at its most appealing. The mouth is lush and dense, with big but refined tannins, and flavors of licorice, blackberry, and cedar. Mourvedre’s characteristic meatiness is in the background at this point, but just waiting for a few years in bottle to emerge. Alternatingly bright and deep on the finish, with lingering flavors of wood smoke, plum skin and spice.Blend: 49% Mourvedre, 25% Grenache, 21% Syrah, 5% Counoise

WS: Precise and well-structured, yet savory and expressive, with loamy mineral, dried cherry, smoky anise and black pepper flavors that build complexity toward broad-shouldered tannins. Mourvèdre, Grenache, Syrah and Counoise. Drink now through 2026.

The Winery: Tablas Creek is a pioneer of California’s Rhone movement. Founded in 1989, it is the culmination of a friendship between two of the international wine community’s leading families dating back to 1967: the Perrin family of Chateau de Beaucastel and the Haas family of Vineyard Brands. After a four-year search, the partners chose Paso Robles, California for its many similarities to the Southern Rhone and began the lengthy process of importing vine cuttings, building a grapevine nursery, and creating an estate vineyard from the ground up. Today, the vineyards at Tablas Creek are proudly Biodynamic® and organic certified by Demeter USA. Since 2010 we have incorporated many Biodynamic techniques across the vineyard, including our own mobile herd of sheep, alpacas and two guard donkeys, Fiona and Dottie.

Tablas Creek’s limestone-rich 120-acre organic estate vineyard is located in the heart of the Adelaida District, in the hills north and west of Paso Robles, about 11 miles from the Pacific Ocean. Our viticulture practices emphasize quality through dry-farming and moderate crop levels. We farm organically, have been certified organic since 2003.

Read more here: https://tablascreek.com/

 VINOTABLES RATINGS FOR THIS TASTING:

  • Wine 1 – CV Rating:  TBA –  Experts Rating: TBA Pts. – Price: $TBA
  • Wine 2 – CV Rating:  TBA –  Experts Rating: TBA Pts. – Price: $TBA
  • Wine 3 – CV Rating:  TBA –  Experts Rating: TBA Pts. – Price: $TBA
  • Wine 4 – CV Rating:  TBA –  Experts Rating: TBA Pts. – Price: $TBA

View full evaluation here: Summary of Tasting Scores 67

Best Rated: 2016 Les Halos de Jupiter, Chauteneauf du Pape

Best Buy: 2016 Les Halos de Jupiter, Chauteneauf du Pape

THE RHONE BLENDS 

(From Wine .com) With bold fruit flavors and accents of sweet spice, red Rhône blends originated from France’s southern Rhône Valley. Grenache, supported by Syrah and Mourvèdre typically form the base of the blend, while Carignan, Cinsault and Counoise often come in to play. With some creative interpretation, Rhône blends have also become popular in Priorat, Washington, Australia and California.

In the Glass: The taste profile of a Rhône blend will vary according to its individual components, as each variety brings something different to the glass. Grenache is the lightest in color but contributes plenty of ripe red fruit and a plush texture. Syrah supplies dark fruit flavors, along with savory, spicy and earthy notes. Mourvèdre is responsible for a floral perfume and earthy flavor as well as structure and a healthy dose of color. New World examples tend to be fruit-forward in style, while those from the Old World will often have more earth, structure and herbal components on top of ripe red and blue fruit.

Perfect Pairings: Rhône red blends typically make for very food-friendly wines. These can work with a wide variety of meat-based dishes, playing equally well with beef, pork, lamb or game. Braised beef cheeks, grilled steak or sausages, roasted pork and squab are all fine pairings.

Sommelier Secret: Some regions like to put their own local spin on the red Rhône blend—for example, in Australia’s Barossa Valley, Shiraz is commonly blended with Cabernet Sauvignon to add structure, tannin and a long finish. Grenache-based blends from Priorat often include Carignan (known locally as Cariñena) and Syrah, but also international varieties like Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. In California, anything goes, and it is not uncommon to see Petite Sirah make an appearance.

Wine Tastings and more in Tuscany

04 Sunday Aug 2019

Posted by Alfonso Sanchez in Member's Forum

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By Peter Scherer

Most of you will have visited Tuscany. I had not, until this summer. Sylvia and I spend a good month in Florence and the countryside. Staying a week at the Batzella winery, at the invitation of our friends, wasa highlight. Aside from getting some first hand lessons on the art of making wine, we used the winery as a hub to visit what is outstanding in Tuscany — much there is.

This proposition of visiting three wineries with 15 tastings, not to forget the grappas and olives, in 5 hours is nothing short of absurd. If you really want to immerse in Tuscan wines, you may want to consider attending  the annual special Tuscan Coast (from Pisa area down to the Maremma DOC of Morellinodi Scanzano) wine tasting event. It is organized by a producer association called Grandi Cru della Costa Toscana,  of which the Batzellas are are member.   You could  taste over 150 wines from some 50 leading Tuscan wine producers. The event takes place early May for 2 full days.

Alternatively you could  go for in depth tastings at the Tenuta dell’Ornellaia and the Batzella wineries. The Guada al Tasso Estate, producer of Sassiciaia, has been closed for visitors. So no tastings there  Tenuta  Ornelliaia is one of the foremost producers in the Bolgheri appellation. Its Ornellaia is one of the original Super Tuscans, made from Cabernet Sauvignons and Merlot. Its owner hails from the illustrious Antinori family of Sassicaia fame. The Batzellawinery does not have a comparable pedigree but it is up and coming. A visit of the winery has been voted  as the No. 1 thing to do in Castagneto, the municipality of Bolgheri.

The Batzella property abuts the Ornellaia estate, which is adjacent to Guada al Tasso’ Sassicaia vineyard. The two are separated by a pintoresque olive tree lined country road. Hence, at the Batzella’s one is in good company. Their terroire is very similar to that of their more famous neighbors.

We had a memorable dinner at the Osteria del Tasso — outside in the garden, five tables only,  with a view at the Tyrrhenian sea. The wines were spectacular.  Maybe it was the ambience, the sun set casting the last rays through the pine trees or the knowledge that a reportedly similar wine from the estate had garnered 100 points from Parker.

Not to forget Bolgheri. This quaint hamlet of 150 inhabitants breathes wine — more displays of wine bottles and cases per square inch than any other place we have seen.  It features a charming square and lovely restaurants, adorned by artistic flower arrangements. We spend hours there, observing the locals in the pursuit of their daily routines with barely another tourist to disturb.

Tasting No. 66- June 10, 2019 – Hidden Regions/Varieties

11 Tuesday Jun 2019

Posted by Alfonso Sanchez in Tasting Meetings

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Cabernet Sauvignon, malbec, Merlot, Red Blends, Tempranillo

 

 Capri Ristorante – McLean, VA

TASTING OVERVIEW 

This blind presentation includes four red wines made of four well known varieties or blends of them from four regions where these wines are typical.  The objective of the tasting is to find out the region of origin and the varieties of which the wines are made of as well as ranking of preference by the participants.

TYPE :  Blind

  1. 2015 Sierra Cantabria Rioja Coleccion Privada, Tempranillo
  2. 2015 Adams Bench Reckoning, Red, Columbia Valley
  3. 2015 Chateau la Pointe, Pomerol
  4. 2005 Poesía, Red, Mendoza 

THE MENU

  1. Gnocci “Au-Gratin”
  2. Chicken Marsala
  3. Vitello Alla Parmigiana
  4. Dessert and/or coffee

PRESENTERS: Juan Luis Colaiacovo, Ricardo Santiago

PARTICIPANTS: Mario Aguilar, Juan Luis Colaiacovo, Orlando Mason, Italo Mikow,, Ricardo Santiago, Alfonso Sanchez, Jairo Sanchez

INFORMATION ON THE WINES

(All information obtained and condensed from several Internet articles.)

2015 Sierra Cantabria Rioja Coleccion Privada 

The Wine: Vinous-Rioja, Spain – “High-pitched red/blue fruit, floral pastille, spicecake, coconut & allspice aromas, along with a smoky mineral quality that emerges with aeration… Shows excellent clarity & repeating florality on a very long, spicy finish that’s given shape by supple, even tannins.”

The Winery: (From: Jorge Ordoñez Selections) Bodegas Sierra Cantabria was founded by Guillermo Eguren, a self-made bodeguero, who was, in the family tradition, a viticulturist. His family, native to San Vicente de La Sonsierra, one of the most sought after terroirs in Rioja, had grown grapes in Rioja Alavesa since the 1870’s. For decades the family sold their grapes to local producers, but Guillermo recognized the potential that his family’s vineyards had to create great wine, and founded Bodegas Sierra Cantabria in 1957. Today, the fourth generation of the Eguren family directs all aspects of the winemaking process, with Marcos Eguren as the winemaker and director of operations and his brother Miguel Angel Eguren as the general manager. The family still prides themselves as viticulturists first, and as a result, all of the grapes are estate grown, and they do not source fruit from any third party source. As viticulturists in Rioja Alavesa, they grow a vast majority of Tempranillo, with only a small percentage of Garnacha and Graciano, as they recognize that Garnacha and Graciano do not ripen reliably in northern Rioja, and they do not want to source their Garnacha and Graciano from Rioja Baja.

Bodegas Sierra Cantabria is the family’s original winery, and comprises a collection of their most classic style Rioja wines. Due to their viticultural background, the family’s wines are composed of mostly Tempranillo, as they recognize that Garnacha and Graciano do not ripen reliably in Northern Rioja.

Although the family’s business has evolved over the years through the foundation of other projects, Bodegas Sierra Cantabria comprises their most traditional, classic styled wines. The wines are made from a blend of selected vineyards, as opposed to Viñedos Sierra Cantabria, which is the family’s collection of single vineyard wines.

2015 Adams Bench Reckoning, Red, Columbia Valley

The Wine: (From: Advinetures) This is a Bordeaux type blend based on Cabernet Sauvignon. This blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Merlot and 6% Petit Verdot takes its name from the bench outside the principal’s office where students would wait to face their reckoning. Very suave, this shows its red and black fruits profile in a medium+ body. Black cherry, plum and blackberry are supported by hints of baking spice. The terrific balance gives it a smooth mouthfeel. Ripe tannins create definition but do not distract. Polished and refined.

The Winery: Tim Blue and Erica Blue’s Adams Bench debuted in 2005 with their first vintage. Tim, an attorney, and Erica, a physician, had found the perfect spot for this labor of love in a beautiful property above the Hollywood Hill winery area in Woodinville. Tim and Erica’s wines have a stellar reputation, and have been praised by Wine Spectator, The Wine Advocate, and more, with their wines very often earning ratings well above 90 points. Their fruit is hand picked, whole berry fermented, and bottled without filtration, and they feel treating the young wine with respect shows through when the wines are released.

2015 Chateau la Pointe, Pomerol 

The Wine: RP :The 2015 La Pointe is a blend of 84% Merlot and 16% Cabernet Franc, picked between 27 September for the younger vines for the second wines, and 1 October for the heart of the Merlot, the Cabernet picked 8 and 12 October. Eric Monnoret told me that the 2015 was matured in 50% new oak. It has a comparatively flamboyant bouquet compared to recent vintages of La Pointe, with opulent red berry fruit, kirsch, cassis and patina of tar. The palate is medium-bodied, firm in the mouth at the moment, quite structured, the oak nicely integrated with a slightly savory finish. This is a robust La Pointe, quite spicy in the mouth with a long aftertaste. It will gain more harmony during its élevage.

The Winery: (From Wine-Seracher) Château La Pointe is one of the largest wine estates in Pomerol, making a Merlot-dominant wine. It dates back to 1845, and has been controlled by the d’Arfeuille family since 1941.The La Pointe estate consists of 23 hectares (57 acres) of vineyards planted mostly to Merlot with some Cabernet Francon a mix of gravel, clay-gravel and sandy soils. These sit on a terrace below the main Pomerol plateau, near châteaux Neninand Trotanoy. The estate also boasts 2ha (5 acres) of formal gardens, and in 1868 was one of the first two estates in the appellation to be allowed to call itself a château. The name La Pointe comes from a sharply angled triangular plot near the entrance to the property.

The vineyard is managed plot-by-plot, and individual parcels of fruit are vinified in small vats. Wines are aged in oak barrels, 50 percent of which are new.Since 2006, Château La Pointe has been owned by the Generali France insurance company. Since then, there have been several key improvements to both viticulture and winemaking. These have included removing Cabernet Sauvignon vines, improving vineyard drainage and lowering the yield of Cabernet Franc, as well as renovating the winery’s vat room.

2005 Poesía, Red, Mendoza 

The Wine: (RP): “The winery’s flagship is called Poesia and is a blend of 60% Malbec and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon. It too is sourced from an 80 year old vineyard in Lujan de Cuyo. The 2005 Poesia was barrel-fermented and aged for 18 months in 100% new French oak. Opaque purple-colored, it has a high-class aromatic array of pain grille, violets, spice box, black cherry, and blueberry. Smooth-textured, ripe, and sweetly-fruited, this elegant wine is beautifully balanced, nicely concealing enough structure to permit 5-7 years of evolution.”

The Winery: (From WS) Poesia, which means poetry in Spanish, is the latest project of Hélène Garcin-Lévêque, 30, and her husband, winemaker Patrice Lévêque, 36. Garcin and Lévêque are no strangers to wine. Garcin manages several small Bordeaux châteaus owned by her mother, Sylviane Garcin-Cathiard, including Clos L’Église in Pomerol and Barde-Haut in St.-Emilion, while Lévêque makes the wines.

The Bordeaux connection to Argentina is already strong, with several joint ventures — such as Bodegas Caro (between Domaines Baron de Rothschild-Lafite and Catena Zapata) and Cheval des Andes (Château Cheval-Blanc and Bodegas Terrazas de los Andes) — producing wines that try to marry the two region’s styles. But Garcin is looking for something different through Poesia.

“We want to have an original Argentinean wine, and not a copy of a blend that is already done in another country,” Garcin said.

Garcin first came to Argentina in 1998 as part of a group of investors in Bodega Monteviejo, a project led by Bordeaux consultant Michel Rolland and located in the Vista Flores area in the Uco Valley. But with progress there sluggish, Garcin changed her plan. She sold some of her parcels to other members of the group and moved up north to the historical heart of Mendoza, Luján de Cuyo. There she purchased a 32-acre vineyard notable for the Malbec that had been planted in 1935.

The vineyard, which also contains Cabernet Sauvignon, is being farmed organically by Garcin and her vineyard manager Marcelo Casazza. Poesia will not use any purchased grapes, and production will be small: Only 1,300 cases were made in 2001 and 2002, and just more than 1,500 cases in 2003. The wine will retail for around $40.

Though Garcin wants to make a uniquely Argentinean wine, she is blending Malbec — the country’s premier grape — with Cabernet Sauvignon, the leading player in Bordeaux. “Cabernet has better body and tannin structure,” she said. “So it gives more complexity to the blend.”

The wine receives 18 months in 100 percent new French oak, but the barrel staves have only a medium to light toast and the barrel heads are not toasted. This light-handed approach to the élevage allows the wine’s purity to shine through. Samples of the 2002 and 2003 tasted with Garcin showed lush raspberry confiture notes supported by racy tannins.

 VINOTABLES RATINGS FOR THIS TASTING:

 

  • 2015 Sierra Cantabria Rioja Coleccion Privada, Tempranillo – CV Rating:  Very Good to Excellent
  • 2015 Adams Bench Reckoning, Red, Columbia Valley – CV Rating:  Very Good
  • 2015 Chateau la Pointe, Pomerol – CV Rating:  Excellent
  • 2005 Poesía, Red, Mendoza – CV Rating:  Excellent

View full evaluation here: Summary of Tasting Scores 66

Best Rated: 2005 Poesía, Red, Mendoza

Best Buy: 2015 Chateau la Pointe, Pomerol 

Three Wine Regions Worth Exploring

05 Sunday May 2019

Posted by Alfonso Sanchez in Member's Forum

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Bolgheri, England, New Mexico

By Juan Luis Colaiacovo.

The links below correspond to articles related to New Mexico, Bolgheri and South England wine regions.

New Mexico

“To my surprise.”

New Mexico’s Deep Winemaking History
This Southern border state planted grapevines back in 1629. And now, nearly 400 years later, the quality of New Mexico’s wine only continues to grow.

Read in Wine Enthusiast Magazine: https://apple.news/A7eQoDtIuQmWKpAmyTMkgBA

Bolgheri (Italy)

“How  interesting.  Regrettable that we did not buy earlier. Our friend (Franco Batzella) former World Bank had excellent vision to establish his winery there.”

Wines From a Little-Known Region Became Some of the Most Expensive in the World
Ornellaia’s vineyard in Bolgheri, Italy. Courtesy of Ornellaia Bordeaux, Burgundy, Barolo. Any oenophile’s eyes will light up at these names. With histories of winemaking dating back centuries, premier wine regions like the aforementioned trio command high prices and break records at auctions. So how did Bolgheri, an obscure Italian hamlet, rise to fine wine prominence on par with these regions within just a few decades? For this Tuscan coastal area, which was granted DOC (Denomination of

Read in FORTUNE: https://apple.news/Ao5JaUqllReaqypgnaaaltQ

England

” We should try these sparkling. Also visit the place. How would these evolve if the french champagne makers are interested as it seems to be the case?”

Kent wine tour: Top wineries to visit – Decanter
The orderly vineyards at Gusbourne Estate, which also boasts a sleek new visitor centre. There’s a good reason why Kent is described as the Garden of England. With much of it edged by the sea, stretching from the Thames estuary all the way round to the English Channel, you’ll find a verdant landscape of rolling hills, blossom-filled orchards, white-cowled oast houses (hop drying kilns), and timbered villages with tile-hung cottages. And thanks to its eastern location, it gets more sunshine and

Read in Decanter: https://apple.news/AvvkdTJNmNb2AgqpZjmdNzQ

Tasting No. 65 – April 8, 2019 – California New Wave Wines

02 Tuesday Apr 2019

Posted by Alfonso Sanchez in Tasting Meetings

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Tags

Califormia, Marsanne, Red Blends, Syrah

 

 Capri Ristorante – McLean, VA

TASTING OVERVIEW 

Peter and Mario had been planning to present wines from California New Wave, as recently commented on by Jancis Robinson and others. Unfortunately, none of the experts in our customary wine stores knew anything about this wave, let along had any of the pertinent wines in stock. Hence, they searched for high-end relatively unknown American wines produced form rare grape blends, or in small batches. They found some specially interesting wines usually in short supply.

TYPE :  Blind

  1. 2017 Tablas Creek Vineyard, Marsanne, Adelaida District, Paso Robles
  2. 2012 Donelan Cuvee Christine Syrah. North Coast, Sonoma County
  3. 2013 Donkey and Goat Five Thirteen, El Dorado, Sierra Foothills
  4. 2013 Villa Creek Damas Noir. Mourvedre, Paso Robles

THE MENU

  1. Lobster bisque with shrimp
  2. Manicotti  in rich tomato bolognese sauce
  3. Lamb stew (carrots, potatoes, onions) with rice
  4. Grilled steak with veggies and mushroom sauce
  5. Dessert and/or coffee

PRESENTERS: Mario Aguilar, Peter Scherer

PARTICIPANTS:  Mario Aguilar, Juan Luis Colaiacovo, Orlando Mason, Italo Mirkow, Orlando Reos, Jorge Requena, Alfonso Sanchez, Jairo Sanchez, Peter Scherer

INFORMATION ON THE WINES

(All information obtained and condensed from several Internet articles.)

2017 Tablas Creek Vineyard, Marsanne, Adelaida District, Paso Robles 

The Wine: The 2017 Tablas Creek Vineyard Marsanne is Tablas Creek’s fifth varietal bottling of Marsanne, the noble white grape of France’s Hermitage appellation. We use most of our Marsanne in our Côtes de Tablas Blanc each year. However, in 2017 we felt that the Marsanne was so complete and compelling, and so representative of the Marsanne grape, that we selected out two lots for a single-varietal bottling.

(RP) “The 2017 Marsanne reveals aromas of lemon oil, beeswax and fresh peach, followed by a full-bodied, textural and multidimensional palate balanced by gentle acids and concluding with a sapid but pure finish. This is Tablas Creek’s fifth standalone Marsanne, and it should be interesting to follow for a decade or more. Haas notes that Marsanne needs a certain vine age to be interesting, and it also benefits from a cooler year—two criteria that were met in 2017.”

The Winery: Tablas Creek is the realization of the combined efforts of two of the international wine community’s leading families: the Perrin family, proprietors of Château de Beaucastel, and the Haas family of Vineyard Brands.

The partners searched California from the foothills of the Sierras in the north to coastal Ventura County in the south, looking for a close match to the Mediterranean climate and high pH soils of Château de Beaucastel. In 1989, they purchased a 120-acre parcel twelve miles from the Pacific Ocean in what is now the Adelaida District west of Paso Robles. They named it Tablas Creek Vineyard, after the small creek running through the property.

The property elevation averages 1,500 feet, and the shallow, rocky limestone soils are of the same geologic origin as those at Beaucastel. Summer days are hot and sunny, but the influence of the nearby Pacific cools the nights, and the remarkably Rhône-like Paso Robles climate allows the grapes to mature fully and yet retain crisp acidity. Ample rainfall in the winter allows most of the vineyard to be dry-farmed each year.

Red wines, comprising about 50% of the vineyard’s production, are made principally from Mourvèdre, Grenache Noir, Syrah, and Counoise. White wines, comprising about 35% of production, are made from Roussanne, Viognier, Marsanne, Picpoul Blanc, and Grenache Blanc. Two rosés, one based on Grenache and the other on Mourvèdre, account for the final 15% of production. Total production averages between 25,000-30,000 cases per year.

Read More about the winery here: https://tablascreek.com/

2012 Donelan Cuvee Christine Syrah. North Coast, Sonoma County 

The Wine: (RP) Syrahs have always been the benchmark wines from Donelan, since the early days when he was using winemaker Pax Mahle. The 2012 Syrah Cuvee Christine, which is fermented with a 30% whole clusters and aged in 80% neutral oak, comes from four separate vineyards in the Russian River Valley at Sonoma Mountain. This is 100% Syrah, aged 20 months in 33% new French oak and represents nearly 900 cases of wine. Deep purple in color with lots of roast beef, blackberry, bouquet garni, licorice and charcuterie spices, the wine is rich, beautifully pure, full-bodied and showing well already, which is of course a hallmark of 2012. It should drink well for at least a decade or more.

The Winery: Donelan Family Wines is a boutique California wine company that produces single-vineyard wines from specific AVAs in Sonoma County. It produces Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and white Rhône-style blends from Roussanne and Viognier, but it is most clearly recognized for its highly rated Syrah wines.

The company was formed in 2000 as Pax Cellars, and was a partnership between Joe Donelan and Pax Mahle, as financier and winemaker, respectively. This partnership dissolved in 2009, and Pax Cellars was rebranded as Donelan Family wines. Mahle went on to establish the Wind Gap brand.

Donelan owns four estate vineyards to produce its limited-production wine portfolio – Obsidian, Walker Vine Hill, Kobler and Richard’s Family – and sources additional fruit from Sonoma County growers. The company’s first vineyard, Obsidian Vineyard, is located in Knights Valley and was planted 30 years ago. The Walker Vine Hill and Kobler vineyards are located in the Russian River Valley, the latter in the cooler subregion of Green Valley. Donelan’s most highly acclaimed Syrah is sourced from one of the warmer warmer vineyard sites in Sonoma Valley, Richard’s Family Vineyard.

Most of Donelan’s single-vineyard and blended Syrah wines are fermented in whole clusters with native yeasts. The juice spends extended time on the skins for full extraction, and wines are typically pressed to French oak barrels to mature anywhere from 20 to 36 months.

Read more about  here: https://www.donelanwines.com/

2013 Donkey and Goat Five Thirteen, El Dorado, Sierra Foothills

The Wine: The name probably of this wine probably comes from the facta that it is a blend of 5 of the thirteen grapes accepted for Chateauneuf-du Pape. 40% Grenache – 18% Syrah – 18% Mouvedre – 14% Cinsault and 10% Counoise.

WE: Vivid, tangy cherry and raspberry flavors practically light up this medium-bodied, polished and complex wine. It pours out red cherry, cranberry and raspberry in refreshing bursts with each sip, with a lightly astringent, lip-smacking finish.

The Winery: (From Wine .com) Donkey & Goat is a family owned and operated winery located in Berkeley California. Tracey & Jared Brandt craft their natural wines from Rhône varietals, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grown in the Anderson Valley, Mendocino Ridge and the undiscovered El Dorado appellation in the Sierra Foothills. Tracey & Jared trained in France, under Éric Texier, an up and coming Rhône winemaker who taught them the art and craft of making wines that speak to the soul about the earth from which they originate. Their maverick winemaking has helped pave the way for the natural wine movement. They make their wines for the table not the cocktail glass. They make Rhône varietals in both colors plus an atypical Chardonnay and a Pinot Noir true to the varietals nature, striving to make wine as naturally as possible and done so since day one.

As home to California’s highest altitude vineyards, El Dorado is also one of its oldest wine growing regions. When gold miners settled here in the late 1800s, many also planted vineyards and made wine to quench its local demand.By 1870, El Dorado County, as part of the greater Sierra Foothills growing area, was among the largest wine producers in the state, behind only Los Angeles and Sonoma counties. The local wine industry enjoyed great success until just after the turn of the century when fortune-seekers moved elsewhere and its population diminished. With Prohibition, winemaking and grape growing was totally abandoned. But some of these vines still exist today and are the treasure chest of the Sierra Foothills as we know them.

El Dorado has a diverse terrain with elevations ranging from 1,200 to 3,500 feet, creating countless mesoclimates for its vineyards. This diversity allows success with a wide range of grapes including whites like Gewurztraminer and Sauvignon Blanc, as well as for reds, Grenache, Syrah, Tempranillo, Barbera and especially, Zinfandel.

Soils tend to be fine-grained volcanic rock, shale and decomposed granite. Summer days are hot but nights are cool and the area typically gets ample precipitation in the form or rain or snow in the winter.

Read more here: https://www.donkeyandgoat.com/

2013 Villa Creek Damas Noir. Mourvedre, Paso Robles 

The Wine: Full of color, ripe fruit, plenty of texture and earthy goodness, Mourvèdre is an important grape in many key regions in the south of France, as well as in Spain and the New World. Mourvèdre is actually of Spanish provenance (there known as Monastrell or Mataro) and is the key variety in Alicante, Jumilla and Yecla. It truly thrives, however, in Provence’s Bandol region, where it shines on its own as a single varietal red and in Southern Rhône where it palys a major part in blends . It is also of great importance in the Southern Rhône alongside Grenache and Syrah—and in California and Australia, as a single varietal wine or in Rhône blends.

(RP) A wine that readers need to hide in the cellar for 2-3 years is the 2013 Damas Noir, which is a smokin’ wine made from 100% Mourvedre, fermented with, of course, 100% whole clusters. Brought up in neutral oak, this medium to full-bodied, concentrated 2013 has tons of spice, bloody meats, stem and mulled dark fruit-like aromas and flavors, as well as a structured, tannic finish. It’s loaded with potential. Winemaker Chris Cherry continues to produce a bevy of unique wines from his estate high up off of Peachy Canyon Road. The wines have shifted in style over the past decade, and today they’re much more savory and stem-dominated (most are fermented with 100% whole cluster and aged in a good portion of concrete) than in the past. I suspect the majority of these new releases will benefit from short term cellaring to let the stems integrate.

The Winery: Cris and JoAnn Cherry moved to Paso Robles in 1996 to open a restaurant, partake in the burgeoning wine scene and raise their children in the country. In 2001, they purchased their first grapes to make wine for their restaurant. And so began Villa Creek Cellars, their best expression of west Paso Robles’ Rhone grape varieties.

Today, they farm their own certified biodynamic and certified organic vineyard, the MAHA Estate in the hills west of Paso Robles. They continue to purchase grapes from the region’s most esteemed vineyards and strive to create exciting wines that reflect the land from which they originated.

The MAHA Estate is 8 miles west of Paso Robles. Extreme topography of south and west facing slopes that climb to 1800 feet continue to captivate Cris and JoAnn with the dynamic views of the coastal mountain range. The winery was erected in 2003 to house the production of roughly 3000 cases of wine each year. Monterey shale and siliceous shale provide an ideal foundation for the Rhone grape varieties planted in 2012 and 2013. Sustaining the vibrancy and the health of the land by farming the grapes under organic and biodynamic principles will, in turn, make vibrant wines. The soil is abundant in micro organisms and is the perfect host to the vines, the family and their flock of 30 Dorper sheep that graze the vineyard in the winter and spring. The energy of this site is palpable.

Read more here: http://www.villacreek.com/

 VINOTABLES RATINGS FOR THIS TASTING:

 

View full evaluation here: 65 Tasting Evaluation Summary

Best Rated: 2012 Donelan Cuvee Christine Syrah, North Coast. Sonoma County – 92 Pts. – $52

Best Buy: 2013 Villa Creek Damas Noir Mourvedre, Paso Robles – 89 Pts. _$32

Tasting No. 64- October 15, 2108 – Non-Traditional Varieties from New Regions of Argentina and Chile

28 Sunday Oct 2018

Posted by Alfonso Sanchez in Tasting Meetings

≈ Leave a comment

 

 Capri Ristorante – McLean, VA

TASTING OVERVIEW

Argentina and Chile have grown significantly during the last two decades in international wine markets.  Grape vines cultivation and wine production began since the early years of Spanish settlement in these two countries.  Historical records show wine production since the beginning of the XVI century, initially as part of religious organizations activities and later as an established agricultural practice.   But only after 1970 the wines from Argentina and Chile started to become familiar names on the tables of restaurants almost all over the world.

In recent years new production areas and new grape varieties have appeared in the market in addition to the traditional Malbec or Torrontés in Argentina, and Carmenére or Cabernet Sauvignon in Chile, which have been flagship varieties of wines since the ‘70s.

In the spirit of Vinotables objective of exploring and tasting wines of high quality and in the process expanding the members’ knowledge of new wines as well as of wine and food pairing, we want to explore some of those new wines which are making noise in the market and are promise of great taste, aromas and flavors.

We have selected from Argentina a Bonarda from Mendoza, and a Pinot Noir from Rio Negro, Patagonia  a new production region with great potential for the creation of wines from certain varieties that adapt to colder climates.  From Chile we have selected Sauvignon Gris, a white Bordeaux variety that survived the filoxera in Chile, together with Cármenere. There are only a few houses that produce 100% Sauvignon Gris and they are only in France and Chile. Also a few top producers in Bordeaux mix it in their white wines.  The red wine from Chile is a Sirah which is comparatively new in Chile but it is growing in quality and popularity, in the same way that it happened with the Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir a few years ago

PRESENTERS: Orlando Mason and Orlando Reos

TYPE :Blind

PARTICIPANTS: Juan Luis Colaiacovo, Orlando Mason, Orlando Reos, Alfonso Sanchez, Peter Scherer

These are the wines:

  1. 2015 Cousiño Macul, Isidora, Sauvignon Gris, Valle del Maule
  2. 2016 Bodega Chacra Barda, Pinot Noir, Patagonia
  3. 2014 El Enemigo Bonarda, Mendoza
  4. 2015 Montes de Alpha Syrah, Colchagua Valley

THE MENU

  1. Green salad
  2. Fried calamari
  3. Veal Ravioles in aurora sauce
  4. Beef medallion and vegetables
  5. Dessert and/or coffee

INFORMATION ON THE WINES

(All information obtained and condensed from several Internet articles.)

2015 Cousiño Macul, Isidora, Sauvignon Gris, Valle del Maule 

The Wine: (WE) This varietal Sauvignon Gris isn’t as aromatic as the more pungent Sauvignon Blanc. In the mouth, this is medium in body, with good overall texture. Dry racy flavors of scallion and bitter melon are not exuberant but turn fruitier on the finish.

(The Wine Bow Group) Clear, soft yellow with bright edges, this wine has a delicate freshness and zest on the nose. Fruit aromas of ripe peach, juicy pineapple and French lemon. In the mouth, it is very fresh, balanced and delightfully fun. A complex wine, citric and fresh with medium body that harmonizes quite well as an aperitif or with salads. Also a great accompaniment to seafood including crab, oysters, mussels or clams and all types of fish.

The Winery: (Wine-Searcher) Viña Cousiño-Macul is a Chilean winery based in the Maipo Valley, just south of Santiago. It was founded in 1856 and is one of the only producers founded in this time that is still family-owned. Cousiño-Macul makes a wide range of varietal and blended wines from international grape varieties including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay and Syrah.

Much of the estate’s production takes place in the Maipo Valley. The original vineyards are located in Macul, a commune east of Santiago. The calcareous soils here are well-suited to Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot production, and Cousiño-Macul’s top Finis Terrae wines are made from grapes sourced from this site. However, Santiago’s urban sprawl limited the size of production and so in 1996 Cousiño-Macul acquired 300 hectares (750 acres) of land in Buin, in the Alto Maipo. Cousiño-Macul’s third vineyard is located in Alhué, a coastal area of the Maipo, and is planted primarily to Carmenere and Syrah.

In total, the estate’s three vineyards are planted to nine different red and white grape varieties, all of which are planted on their own rootstocks. These range from premium offerings to more value-driven wines.

Isidora Goyenechea was born in 1836 to a family of prominent silver miners in northern Chile. She married Luis Cousiño in 1855, with whom she had seven children. Luis died in 1873, leaving Isidora with the challenge of raising their family and becoming steward to a group of companies ranging from coal mining to winemaking. Isidora courageously took the reins of both family and business, becoming one of the leading figures of Chilean society during the second half of the nineteenth century. Isidora’s role in Cousiño-Macul’s history may well be compared to that of the great “champagne widows” like Veuve Clicquot, Louise Pommery and Elisabeth “Lili” Bollinger. Her contributions to philanthropy and the development of the arts have added to her reputation as an outstanding feminine figure in the history of Chile. In an effort to convey Isidora’s elegance and strength, her name and personal crest have been selected as the signature elements for this new Sauvignon Gris label.

Read More about the winery here: http://www.cousinomacul.com/en/

2016 Bodega Chacra Barda, Pinot Noir, Patagonia 

The Wine: Winemaker Notes: Pure, minerally and powerful, with concentrated flavors of red plum and dried raspberry, loaded with powerful meaty notes. Sandalwood accents linger on the finish, showing caressing tannins. A perfect pairing for fish, salads and omelettes.

WE: Dusty, jumbled aromas of prune, raisin, sugar beet and leather are disparate. Chunky and flabby in feel, this tastes of oak, tomato and stewed berries. A flat finish fails to bring it around.

The Winery: (From Wine.com) Bodega Chacra is located in the Rio Negro Valley of northern Patagonia, 620 miles south of Buenos Aires, 1,240 miles north of Tierra del Fuego, and roughly equidistant west to east from the Andes Mountains and the Atlantic Ocean. The property’s situation in the arid central Argentine desert is tempered by the confluence of the Neuquen and Limay Rivers, both of which flow from the Andes and converge in the Rio Negro, which in turn flows into the Atlantic. The Rio Negro Valley itself is a glacial bed 15.5 miles wide stretching 310 miles along the river’s banks at an elevation of 750 feet above sea level. The valley is irrigated by a network of channels excavated in the late 1820s by British colonists who observed the abundant snow melt flowing from the Andes and created an oasis in the middle of the desert.

The climate is dry, with maximum humidity of thirty percent and an average of seven inches of rainfall annually. This aridity, coupled with the natural barrier of the surrounding desert, results in a complete absence of phylloxera and vine diseases. The air is pristine and without pollution, creating tremendous luminosity and purity of sunlight. During the ripening period, in the first quarter of the year, diurnal temperatures vary widely, ranging from an average of 82.4F (28C) during the day and 48.2F (9C) at night. The seasons are precisely defined, with hot summers, cold winters and mild springs and autumns. This consistency of climate enhances consistency of the wine from vintage to vintage.

Read more about  here: https://www.bodegachacra.com/

2014 El Enemigo Bonarda, Mendoza 

The Wine: This wine is a blend of 85% Bonarda and 15% Cabernet Franc. Aged 18 months, in French oak barrels 70% new and American oak barrels 30% new.

Winemaker Notes: This Bonarda shows a deep violet color with bluish reflections. The nose is intense and complex. Intense aromas of ripe black fruit, blackberries, raspberries, black cherries, chocolate and liquor, with some spicy notes of fresh herbs provided by the Cabernet Franc appear. The taste has a sweet impact with silky tannins and aromas of ripe black and red fruits with notes of licorice and vanilla. Its natural acidity is refreshing. By its concentration and complexity the finish is long and persistent. Enjoy this wine alongside roast lamb, empanadas, and light pastas dishes.

WE: Grapy and floral smelling up front, this Bonarda smells reduced. A tight, rubbery palate is drawing but freshened by a mild shot of acidity. Savory oaky plum and berry flavors finish baked, minty and oaky.

The Winery: “They were about to uproot this entire Bonarda vineyard but fortunately I was able to rescue five hectares. This wonderful vineyard, planted in the parral (high pergola) tranining system, is located in Rivadavia.” – Alejandro Vigil. Made of grapes from the El Mirador, Rivadavia, and Gualtallary vineyards planted in 1950 in soils composed by calcareous, rocks, and sand at elevation 2,145-4,851 feet.

Read more here: http://enemigowines.com/index.html

2015 Montes de Alpha Syrah, Colchagua Valley 

The Wine: Winemaker Notes: The Montes Alpha Syrah is an intense ruby-red color. The nose presents floral aromas with tobacco and leather notes. This is a very elegant wine with strong, smooth tannins and tremendous body on the palate. Blend: 90% Syrah, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Viognier

Highly recommended with red meats, stir-fried beef, pork chops, spaghetti with Bolognese sauce.

WE: Deep purple in color, this cool-vintage Syrah excels via smooth cherry, cassis, cedar and charcoal aromas. A full-bodied palate is balanced by firm acidity, while plum, berry, cassis and chocolate flavors finish in harmony. Drink through 2020.

The Winery: With the release of the first Montes Alpha wine back in 1988, Montes became one of the first premium wineries of Chile. Their premise, a clear belief that Chile had an untapped potential as a producer of quality wines, made them a benchmark for other wineries to follow. Its original four partners’ total involvement and the continuous help of the angels that decorate their labels was key to their success. Two decades later, Montes is the fifth most important winery of Chile where Aurelio Montes continues leading the winemaking area with the same passion as the first day. Hard work and total focus on quality has led Montes to be one of the most successful and respected quality-driven wineries in Chile as they continue pioneering and breaking new grounds in wine.

(From Wine Searcher) Montes is a large wine producer in Chile, exporting wines to more than 100 countries around the world. The company produces a wide range of wines from classic Chilean grape varieties including Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenere, Merlot, Syrah and Chardonnay. Purple Angel, a Carmenère-predominant wine from the Colchagua Valley, is Montes’ flagship and one of Chile’s most famous wines. Today, the company’s vineyards span the length of the country, from Aconcagua and Casablanca Valley in the north to Apalta in the south. These are managed with as little irrigation as possible, to strengthen the vines, and green harvesting helps with berry concentration. Vineyards are harvested either late at night or early in the morning to help maintain the freshness of the grapes.

There is a state-of-the-art 2.3-million-liter winery in Apalta, where many of Montes’ top wines are both grown and made. Along with the Purple Angel, the the steepest and highest slopes of the vineyards in Apalta provide grapes for the Folly Syrah, a concentrated and ageworthy red wine. The Alpha M Bordeaux blend is also made here, from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Taita is the newest addition to Montes’ icon wines, and focuses on Cabernet Sauvignon from the estate in Marchigüe.

Montes also offer a range of everyday drinking wines. The Alpha and Classic series focus on varietal wines from Chile’s most famous grape varieties, while the Outer Limits range focuses on wines from more extreme regions.

Read more here: https://www.monteswines.com/en/

 VINOTABLES RATINGS FOR THIS TASTING:

 

View full evaluation here: Summary of Tasting Scores 64

Best Rated: 2014 El Enemigo Bonarda, Mendoza 89- 91 Pts

Best Buy: 2014 El Enemigo Bonarda, Mendoza $18

ADDITIONAL NOTES

Bonarda: Variety characteristics and its History in Argentina

The origin of Argentina’s Bonarda Grape had for many years been the subject of much dispute. While many thought it to be the same varietal as Bonarda Piemontese, or even Bonarda Novarese, known as Uva Rara, or “the rare grape”, which is appropriate since Bonarda has pretty well disappeared in Italy.  Its actual roots seem to stem from Savoie, France where it was known as Corbeau. It is speculated that at one time it was transported across the Alps to Italy’s Piedmont where, after many generations of cultivation by Italian winemakers and their families, perhaps its French origin was forgotten or its vines had simply been confused for another varietal planted nearby before being transported to the Americas in the late 19th century. It was brought here by immigrants from northern Italy. In Piedmont, home of Barolo and Barbaresco, where there are three different grapes of this name and no-one really knows which one travelled to the Argentine. By the time of its emigration, the vine would have taken on a number of local or regional denominations, which would not be untangled until the technological breakthrough of genetic testing one hundred years later. It may be the same as a Californian grape called Charbono.

Today, despite DNA evidence stating otherwise, Argentina’s Bonarda has steadfastly claimed its name and identity as something distinctly Argentine. But perhaps rightly so. After all, each grape grows differently under different environmental circumstances, and Bonarda’s emergent popularity and critical successes in recent years are easily attributed to the grape’s prosperity in Mendoza’s ideal growing conditions. Upon introduction to Argentina, the Bonarda perfectly acclimated to Mendoza’s climate, soil, altitude and other variables, and its planting soon grew very popular. The vine tended to produce high yield and extremely vigorous plants; favored characteristics for early argentine winemakers more concerned with quantity than quality. Because of this, incorrect pruning and conduction led to the vine overshading the cluster. This would of course negatively affect the properties of the wine by today’s standards, exemplified by being weak in color, light-bodied, herbal and low in alcohol. Nevertheless, it was quantity that mattered and in 1936, Bonarda covered approximately 15,000 acres (about 6,000 hectares), and by 2001 its cultivation had more than doubled to over 30,000 acres (about 12,000 hectares). At present, Bonarda is Argentina’s fourth most widely planted red grape. In 2014 Bonarda registered almost 20,000 hectares in production, mostly in Mendoza.

When Bonarda is handled with more refined viticulture techniques and is elaborated under skillful processes that are commonplace today, it can easily be crafted into high-quality wines. Until recently, the Bonarda variety was used only for bulk production, table wines, or to improve and balance blends. However it is now regarded with much more respect, and its elaboration into very attractive varietals and bi-varietals, such as the Syrah-Bonarda and Bonarda-Malbec, are clear evidence of this.

Bonarda grapes need hot weather, plenty of sunshine over the cluster, low yield and adequate ripening, which are conditions found throughout Argentina’s prime winegrowing regions. However in San Rafael’s Cuadro Benegas district, winemakers have discovered an additional advantage unique to its geography. The district is situated between the Diamante River to the north and the Atuel River to the south, and both are fed by the purest glacial runoff from the snowcapped Andes Mountains. The district’s location between the two rivers has had a remarkable affect on the soil conditions in the area. It has been argued that Cuadro Benegas is the best place to cultivate grapes in the region, and it is repeatedly recommended to produce top wines due to the considerable benefits delivered from its mineral-rich loam. In a recent private study carried out for Algodon Wine Estates by Agronomía San Rafael, laboratory analysis determined that the soil qualities in Cuadro Benegas are optimal for the cultivation of Bonarda and other red varieties. Soil conditions allow for healthy and prosperous root development, and provide the nourishment required for red varieties to complete their growth cycle and biological ripening of the fruit. Moreover, the presence of soil-required elements such as calcium, magnesium, nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus, and zinc, as well as pH values are all found in choice levels.

A good Bonarda is known for its intense ruby-red colors up to the violets, and continuing through purples. It is a wine with an intense nose. It is fruity-flavored with red and black fruit and ripe fruits of the forest such as strawberries, blackberries, cassis and cherries. It often presents a spiced aftertaste and aromas of vanilla and tobacco, if oak-aged. It has a pleasant mouthfeel, with a sweet entrance and good intensity. One of the most remarkable characteristics is expressed in the smoothness of its ripe tannins combined with the fruit.

Color: The Bonarda is well-known by its intense ruby-reds which go up to violets, going through purples

Nose: The Bonarda presents an intense nose. Its primary aromas are red and black fruit and ripe fruits of the forest such as strawberries, blackberries, cassis and cherries. It often presents a spiced aftertaste and aromas of vanilla and tobacco if oak-aged.

Mouthfeel: Pleasant and sweet at first, with good intensity. Less tannic than the Cabernet Sauvignon. Its smooth tannins make it velvety and elegant. The oak-aging gives it excellent maturity in addition to the vanilla and toasty aromas.

Maturation: The Bonarda undergoes in-bottle evolution faster than the Malbec or Cabernet Sauvignon. Oak helps it reach an excellent maturation.

Pairing: Grilled meats and vegetables, spiced dishes, pasta, legumes, roast beef, and hard cheeses. In only the past few years the traditional consensus of this variety has completely changed.

The Bonarda has suddenly gained credence as a varietal, particularly in Mendoza where it is highly benefited by weather conditions, soil, altitude and rainfall. Appropriate labor on the vine combined with low yield control, result in exceptional quality. Some wineries have moved ahead by carefully producing the Bonarda utilizing the same industrial processes they customarily follow when elaborating wine from long established “fine” varieties such as the Cabernet Sauvignon or the Malbec. Bonarda is distinctive, it is a wine of great personality, apt for oak-aging, and obligingly willing to grow and grow…..

Adapted from:  https://www.algodonfinewines.com/terroir/Bonarda.ANewAppreciation-AlgodonWines

 

Tasting No. 63- August 13, 2018 – Blends

14 Tuesday Aug 2018

Posted by Alfonso Sanchez in Tasting Meetings

≈ Leave a comment

 

 Capri Ristorante – McLean, VA

PRESENTERS: Jorge Requena, Alfonso Sanchez

TYPE :  Blind

PARTICIPANTS: Juan Luis Colaiacovo, Orlando Mason, Orlando Reos, Jorge Requena, Alfonso Sanchez, Jairo Sanchez, Peter Scherer

TASTING OVERVIEW 

The presenters selected one white and four red wines for this tasting.  All the reds are blends of Rhone style in a price range from $20 to $60.  Three reds  and the white are from the Central Coast in California (Paso robles and Santa Barbara) a fourth is from Gigondas, Rhone valley in France. The objectives and challenges of this tasting are:

  • Identify the old world bottle
  • Identify the type of blend (Super Tuscan, Bordeaux, Meritage, Rhone, etc.)
  • Identify the regions
  • Identify the base variety of the blends
  • Establish a ranking of preference
  • Determine the best buy, once te prices are divulged

(From Wine Searcher) Paso Robles has made a name for itself as a source of supple, fruity, and powerful wines. With 11 smaller sub-AVAs, there is quite a bit of diversity to be found in this inland portion of California’s Central Coast. This is mostly red wine country, with Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel standing out as the star performers. Other popular varieties include Merlot, Petite Sirah, Petit Verdot, and Rhône varieties both red and white. There is a fairly uniform tendency here towards wines that are unapologetically bold and opulently fruity, albeit with a surprising amount of acidity thanks to the region’s chilly nighttime temperatures.

Ballard Canyon is an AVA encompassed within the larger Santa Ynez Valley region of California’s famous Santa Barbara County. The 3157-hectare (7800-acre) viticultural area was officially recognized as an AVA in October 2013, but has long been highly regarded for its red wines made from Syrah and Grenache. In fact, approximately half of the AVA’s vineyards are devoted to Syrah.  The viticultural region lies to the west of the Happy Canyon AVA and east of the AVA of Sta. Rita Hills. Ballard Canyon itself is a long, thin canyon that runs in a curve from north to south and is surrounded by a myriad of smaller canyons interspersed with dry, rugged hills. The soils in the Ballard Canyon AVA are more uniform than in the larger Santa Ynez Valleyand are made up of sand and clay loam with good drainage capacities. Limestone, too, is present in certain northern vineyard plots. Vines planted in the steeper vineyard sites are able to develop deep root systems in search of water in the AVA’s arid environment, thereby increasing vine strength. The good level of calcium in Ballard Canyon’s soils ensures the development of thick skins and increases the concentration of tannins, sugars and acids in the grapes, leading to richly flavored, well-balanced wines.

These are the wines:

  1. 2016 Tenshen White Blend, Santa Barbara
  2. 2016 Daou Vineyards Pessimist Red Blend, Paso Robles 
  3. 2015 Domain Du Cayron Gigondas, Gigondas, Rohne
  4. 2015 L’Aventure Optimus, Paso Robles
  5. 2015 Piedrasassi Harrison Clarke Vineyard, Santa Barbara

THE MENU

  1. Gazpacho
  2. Risotto de fungi
  3. Veal ravioli with meat sauce
  4. Grilled steak potatoes and vegetables
  5. Dessert and/or coffee

INFORMATION ON THE WINES

(All information obtained and condensed from several Internet articles.)

2016 Tenshen White Blend, Santa Barbara 

The Wine: Winemaker Notes. Aromas of tangerine and ripe melon lead to flavors of peach and apricot. Balanced acidity and juicy honeysuckle accent the finish with a hint of hazelnut. Rhone Style White Blend: Viognier, Rousanne, Grenache Blanc, Chardonnay.

The Winery: Alex Guarachi. Over 30 years ago, Alex Guarachi came to the United States from Chile on a soccer scholarship. When an injury shattered his athletic dreams, he went back to his roots for inspiration on what to do next. Alex embraced his other passion: the wines of his homeland. Having worked from a garage and performing every task, Alex eventually built his wine import company, Guarachi Wine Partners, into one of the industry’s leading companies and in 2010 was honored as Importer of the Year by Wine Enthusiast.

Julian Gonzalez. Gonzalez was Lead Winemaker for all Paul Hobbs Consulting programs from 2007 to 2016. Prior to that, Gonzalez worked under winemaker and mentor, Rolando Herrera, at Mi Sueno, Argentina’s Vina Cobos and Paul Hobbs Winery in addition to working in the cellars at Stag’s Leap, Dominus Estate and Louis M. Martini Winery. Gonzalez has multiple 100-point wines under his pedigree.

Read More about the winery here: http://www.tenshenwines.com/

2016 Daou Vineyards Pessimist Red Blend, Paso Robles

The Wine: The Pessimist is a blend of Syrah, Petite Sirah, Zinfandel and Tannat.

Deep red color with dark tints. Exotic nose of raspberry, mulberry, and apricot. Very fresh and spicy in the mouth with blackberry flavors.

Not only does it show the vintage’s ripe fruit in the form of red plums, stone fruit and supple tannins, it still retains fine details like wisps of fennel, cracked pepper and a long, licorice-tinged finish.

The Winery: (From Wine.com) In the golden, oak-studded hills of Paso Robles’ fabled west side, not far from William Randolph Hearst’s magnificent castle, there is a man with a Homeric vision. His name is Daniel Daou and he is devoting his life and every imaginable resource to creating, first and foremost, a Cabernet Sauvignon that rivals the very best in the world.

Gracefully perched atop a stunning promontory at 2,200 feet, the DAOU Spanish Colonial style winery is embraced by a tangible serenity. Hawks wheel and bank while the all-day sun caresses close planted rows of lush, emerald green vines. The 100 percent calcareous soil makes no sound as it passes out nourishment and only a gentle breeze flows up through the Templeton Gap from the Pacific. The quiet is bewitching; you want to lay down roots here, just as the four-year-old vines have done. But the sense of peace belies the serious industry at work on this 100 acre estate. No effort is spared to create the luscious varietals and blends that flow from this limited production winery. This kind of synergy happens rarely: superlative climate and terroir, super intensive vineyard culture, and cutting edge viticultural practice. You’re more likely to find it in Bordeaux than Central California. Coupled with the infectious passion and gracious, family style hospitality of the Daou brothers, Georges and Daniel, the result is pure magic. The kind of magic that comes in a bottle.

Read more about  here: https://www.wine-searcher.com/producer-15993-daou-vineyards

2015 Domain Du Cayron Gigondas, Gigondas, Rohne 

The Wine : Winemaker Notes: Deep red color with dark tints. Exotic nose of raspberry, mulberry, and apricot. Very fresh and spicy in the mouth with blackberry flavors.Enjoy on its own or pair with Beef Burgundy, red meat, game and cheeses.

RP: The tank sample of Domaine du Cayron’s 2015 Gigondas looks to be excellent. Not only does it show the vintage’s ripe fruit in the form of red plums, stone fruit and supple tannins, it still retains fine details like wisps of fennel, cracked pepper and a long, licorice-tinged finish. Drink this slightly warm, full-bodied wine from release through 2025.

Indicative blend: 70% Grenache, 15% Cinsault 14% Syrah, 1% Mourvedre.

The Winery: The Domaine de Cayron has been run by the Faraud family for the past four generations, opening in 1840 at the foot of the Dentelles de Montmirail.The fifth and current generation is run by the three Faraud sisters. The eldest, Delphine, is in charge of sales, accounting and client relations, while Cendrine and the youngest Roseline, armed with their combined knowledge and savoir-fair, work together to produce high-quality wines while, guided by their father, Michel Faraud, remaining true to age-old traditions.

The estate comprises 17 ha (42 acres) of clay marl and limestone, sand and gravel. We have around 20 separate plots, which are located throughout the Gigondas appellation, along the Dentelles de Montmirail (2.5ha at the neck of the Cayron at 400m high) and across garrigue, including 2ha of vineyard in the Bois de Menge that are up to 70 years old.

Read more here: http://www.domaineducayron.com/en/domain.php

2015 L’Aventure Optimus, Paso Robles 

The Wine: Winemaker Notes: Optimus is a classically- styled wine that truly embodies oursaying: L’Aventure…where the Bordeaux meets the Rhône!. 60% Syrah, 21% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Petit Verdot.

Vinous: Inky ruby. An exotically perfumed bouquet evokes spice-accented cherry and blueberry, while smoke and vanilla nuances add complexity. Sappy and expansive on the palate, offering sweet dark fruit flavors that show liqueur-like depth and a surprisingly light touch. Closes on a gently tannic note, displaying impressive clarity, repeating spiciness and strong cling.

The Winery: Stephan Asseo, owner and winemaker at L’Aventure Winery, began making wine in 1982, following his education at L’Ecole Oenologique de Macon, Burgundy, France. In that same year, Stephan established Domaine de Courteillac in Bordeaux. He and his family later purchased Chateau Fleur Cardinal and Chateau Robin in the Cotes de Castillion, Bordeaux. Over the next 15 years, Stephan developed into an artisan winemaker of fastidious craftsmanship and gained a reputation as a maverick vigneron. However, his true desire was to be more innovative than AOC law would allow. In 1996, this led him on a quest for a great terroir, where he could pursue his ideal as a winemaker. After searching for over a year among the world’s great wine fields, ranging from South Africa to Lebanon, Argentina to Napa, Stephan found Paso Robles. Stephan immediately “fell in love” with the unique terroir of west side Paso Robles. The rolling topography of the Santa Lucia Mountain Range, the deep calcareous soils, and the maritime influences of the renowned Templeton Gap all combine to produce a world class wine country, with the potential to craft some of the world’s greatest blends. It is here, in Paso Robles, that Stephan began his adventure, “L’Aventure”.

The spirit of L’Aventure is most evident in Stephan’s “Paso Blends”, such as Optimus and Estate Cuvée. Both wines are Syrah/ Cabernet Sauvignon/ Petit Verdot blends. In these wines, as well as in our Rhône blend Côte à Côte, the blending of premium varietals increases the authenticity, complexity, and balance of the wines. In this adventurous spirit, we find the future of Paso Robles wines… great, balanced red blends.

Read more here: http://www.aventurewine.com/

2015 Piedrasassi Harrison Clarke Vineyard, Santa Barbara 

The Wine: Winemaker Notes: Hilarie and Roger Harrison planted their estate mostly to Syrah but later grafted over some vines to Mourvedre—in part as a response to some of the fruit ripening a bit quickly on the clay over limestone soils there. Mourvedre is a later, more patient grape, taking its time through the growing season and not as prone to jackrabbit-fast ripening on calcareous soils as Syrah tends to be. Some Syrah at this site still matures a little early for the winery’s liking, but the addition of the Mourvedre at assemblage brings nuance and balance in the midst of southern-Rhone stylerobustness.

Vinous: The 2015 Red Wine Harrison Clarke Vineyard (50% Syrah, 50% Mourvèdre) is unusually flamboyant and ripe by Piedrasassi standards. Ripe red cherry, kirsch, hard candy, pomegranate and sweet tobacco infuse this intense, forward wine. The 2015 is attractive, but readers should expect a decidedly ripe wine relative to the norm here.

The Winery: Since we began making the Piedrasassi wines in 2003, our ideas about wine have expanded and evolved. We enjoy drinking wines from lots of different regions–Burgundy, the Northern Rhône, Beaujolais, the Jura, and Piedmont, to name a few–so it is difficult to pin us down to a specific style we try to emulate. We are blown away by the tradition and sense of place of wines like Albert Dervieux’s lyrical La Viallière from Côte-Rôtie, and are amazed at the stylized concentration and texture of Stanko Radikon’s avant-garde Ribolla Gialla from Friuli. And we are continually inspired by the diversity of grapes and wines cultivated in the wide open, relatively uncharted territory that is the California wine industry.

The way these widespread tastes express themselves in the winery is in our different bottlings of our flagship varietal, Syrah, and a handful of small offerings of other varietals. For the Syrah, we focus on cooler climate vineyards, using native yeasts, low sulfur, and stem inclusion at fermentation to give transparency to the wines and to develop wines that have exuberant, lively aromatics. For the green label Sauvignon Blanc, we use extended skin contact for a mouthfeel unusual in a white wine. And the whole-cluster, closed-tank fermentation of the carbonic Sangiovese gives the wine a great freshness and energy that we absolutely love.

The common thread among all the wines we love and admire is that there are both a mind and a place behind them. Wine, just like food, or music, or art, should have a certain kind of authenticity–it should come from someone and somewhere. This idea is what informs the work that we do. We try to make honest wines that we believe in. We hope you like them.

Read more here: http://www.piedrasassi.com/

 VINOTABLES RATINGS FOR THIS TASTING:

View full evaluation here: Summary of Tasting Scores 63

Best Rated:  2015 Domain Du Cayron Gigondas, Gigondas, Rohne;  92-93 Pts.

Best Buy: 2016 Daou Vineyards Pessimist Red Blend, Paso Robles; 90-91 Pts.  $25

Tasting No. 62- July 16, 2018- Eastern Europe and Middle East Wines

02 Thursday Aug 2018

Posted by Alfonso Sanchez in Tasting Meetings

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

Bulgaria, Eastern Europe, Georgia, Lebanon, Middle East, Turkey

 

 Capri Ristorante – McLean, VA

Bekaa Valley – Lebanon

PRESENTER: Peter Scherer

TYPE :  Blind

 PARTICIPANTS:

Cecilio Augusto Berndsen, Juan Luis Colaiacovo, Orlando Mason, Orlando Reos, Jorge Requena, Ricardo Santiago, Alfonso Sanchez, Peter Scherer, Miguel Segovia

TASTING OVERVIEW 

This presentation aims at exploring wines form the middle east and east Europe and contrast them with a new world  wine from Chile.

These are Peter’s notes on the subject: “The wines to be presented are largely outside our customary range of selections. My interest in Near Eastern wines was raised recently when a guest brought a wine from Georgia, reportedly the birthplace of wine making. Wow – ​the thought ​why not explore this avenue a bit more with friends from the VN. As it became evident, Georgia is not the only country to lay claim to be first. Archaeological evidence suggests that wine originated in the Caucasus and which boast  the highest peaks of Europe, and identifies sites in Georgia, Iran (c. 5000 BC) and Greece (c. 4500 BC). Not to be missed, there is also research suggesting that wine made from fermented grapes among other fruits was enjoyed even earlier in China  (c. 7000 BC). The oldest evidence of wine production has been found in Armenia (c. 4100 BC).

With this newly found historic diversity of wine making, I became motivated to broaden the sample beyond Georgia. This ​turned out to be a foray of the blind. I do not know much about the wines of the region other than a lose acquaintance with Greece. While some would have liked to include Greece, I shied away because of the limit on the size of the tasting and familiarity of most ​participants ​with Greek wines. ​In the end, ​I chose Georgia, Bulgaria, Lebanon​ and​ Turkey plus Chile for the ‘Challenge’ wine​ largely on advice​ ​of ​selected experts, who are supposed to know and my own intuition. Missing are Armenia, Romania, Macedonia,​ ​Croatia, Iran etc. Candidates ​for ​ another tasting?”

These are the wines:

    1. 2009 Sami, Kondoli Vineyards, Marani, Georgia
    2. 20​15 Gamza, Bulgariana, ​Danube Plain, Bulgaria
    3. 2009 Chateau Musar​, Gaston Hochar, Beeka Valley, Lebanon
    4. 2013 Oekuegoezue – Bogazkere, Kayra Buzbag Rezerv, Anatolia, Turkey
    5. 2011 Carmenere, Primus, Colchagua Valley, Chile

THE MENU

  1. Cheese Plate
  2. Green Salad
  3. Rack of Lamb and Coscous
  4. Dessert and/or coffee

INFORMATION ON THE WINES

(All information obtained and condensed from several Internet articles.)

2009 Sami, Kondoli Vineyards, Marani, Georgia 

The Wine: Tasting Notes; Blend of three Sami grapes all grown in Kondoli vineyards. Samis are characterized by deep red color, intense black fruit juice aromas and big body. A balanced and versatile wine that pairs with a wide variety of dishes. Kondoli’s web site features the Saperavi grape more prominently than the Sami grape offered in the tasting. I was told that the latter is more difficult to grow than the former but that it would yield a subtler wine Georgia is one of the oldest wine regions in the world. The fertile valleys and protective slopes of the Transcaucasia were home to grapevine cultivation and Neolithic wine production for at least 8000 years. The country has more than 500 indigenous grape varieties. Nowadays 25 are used in the industry. For almost 3 centuries, Kondoli vineyards have been a benchmark of quality, reflecting the best of the Kakheti region. The Qvevri wine making method used originally in Georgia, listed as part of the UNESCO Intangible Heritage, reportedly is still practiced today , including for exports. During the fermentation process, cap management is performed only by hand punching, thus the overall mechanical impact on grape skins has been minimized thus ensuring soft extraction of tannin and coloring elements

20​15 Gamza, Bulgariana, ​Danube Plain, Bulgaria 

The Wine: Tasting Notes: an indigenous varietal characterized by softness on the palate and delicate tannins. A full-bodied wine with aromas of red fruits, freshness and ruby red color.Bulgaria in the opinion of some counts on the most accomplished wine makers among Near East countries.  Its accession to the EU in 2007 has engendered the creation of a modern and complex quality wine production and supply chain.  Bulgaria has five viticultural areas exhibiting markedly contrasting growing conditions. The wine chosen is from the Danubian plains.  The climate of the area is temperate continental with a hot summer and many sunny days a year. Bulgariana is one of the better known Bulgarian vineyards. I had bought initially a higher priced Cabernet Sauvignon & Syrah blend from the same producer but originating in the Thracian Valley.  I downgraded price wise to get the native Gamza. Let’s see what we got for $12.

 

2009 Chateau Musar​, Gaston Hochar, Beeka Valley, Lebanon

The Wine: Tasting Notes:  Medium youthful ruby; aromatic, slight sweet pepper, savory with soy; palate is medium bodied, medium length; more savory on the palate than the nose; nice medium-long finish. The style is said to be emphatically Lebanese: enticingly aromatic with persistent fruit flavors. Wonderful wine, still early in its development. The varietal components are brought together two years after the harvest; the resulting blend is then placed back in cement tanks before being bottled 12 months later. Each wine is blended to reflect the character of the vintage. After 4 years’ bottle maturation in the stone cellars of Chateau Musar, the finished wines are released a full seven years after the harvest. All the grapes are hand-harvested by local Bedouins between August and October. The CM 2009 has been rated consistently at 91 plus. One rater claimed that it would still grow further over time, I wonder. This is an expensive wine, let’s see whether it passes muster.  The Chateau Musar vineyards are in the Bekaa Valley, cradled between two snow-capped mountain ranges running parallel to Lebanon’s Mediterranean coastline. The valley is nestled at 3,000 feet, sports 300 days of sunshine a year, fresh mountain breezes and an average temperature of 25°C.

 

2013 Oekuegoezue – Bogazkere, Kayra Buzbag Rezerv, Anatolia, Turkey 

The Wine: Tasting Notes.  Kayra wines are being exported internationally, where they have been acclaimed for their quality, value and use of indigenous grape varieties.  As to terroir, Turkey has vast and differentiated soil structures and climatic attitudes, some more suited than others for the growing of grapes that make quality wines. It is said that Eastern Turkey is good for only three things: grape growing, goats and rock farming. Well, good use has been made of growing grapes. While there are thousands of acres under cultivation, only five percent of the grape harvest is used for wine production. Most of the yield is sold fresh or dried. After California, Turkey is the world’s largest producer of raisins.

The Bogazkere region, origin of one of the grapes used in the Turkish wine presented, is known for poor soils and a hot climate with high day‐night temperatures and cold nights. Yet, ingenious and dedicated growers have coaxed out a variety that deserves attention. Öküzgözü, the other blend, is also found only in Turkey.  While Bogazkere makes dark, strong and tannic wines, Öküzgözü gives fruit and floral aromas.  Today’s wine making in Turkey, together with other facets of Turkish life, owes much to Kema Atatürk. He launched a research program into Turkish wine, giving two French viticulturists the task of studying Turkey’s indigenous grapes and wine regions and establishing the regional suitability of grapes. Turkish wines moved up in quality and won a series of gold medals in international competition.

Now, the Turkish government has moved the momentum in reverse by banning advertising and curtailing tightly the consumption of wine.  The industry is suffering with exports essentially the only way out.

 

2011 Carmenere, Primus, Colchagua Valley, Chile

The Wine: Tasting Notes:  Begins with deep carmine red color in the glass. On the nose, the notes of plum and blackberry mingle invitingly with hints of exotic spice. Fresh and delicate flavors of cherry and plum are complemented by a touch of spice and so notes of dried figs. This is wine is well balanced with mouthwatering acidity and rounded tannins.

 

 


VINOTABLES RATINGS FOR THIS TASTING
:

Overview: 

  1. The scores on the identification of the wines tasted mirrored a random distribution, i.e. it did not show tasters’ ability to actually match their perception with the actual wines.  This extended to the Chilean Primus ‘challenger’, which was presumed to stand apart from the endogenous varietals.
  2. The distribution of scores was more disperse than those of VN’s tasting of ‘traditional’ wines and the average, except for the Kayra Buzbag but including the Primus, significantly lower.
  3. While none of the wines in the tasting would qualify as a first rate selection to accompany a meal or to be enjoyed as a stand alone, it was felt that the Kayra Buzbag and the Kondoli would offer an interesting  option to taste with friends ‘exotic’ wines from the birth place of wine making.
  4. The relative ratings came as a surprise. The Turkish Kayra  Buzbag Reserve scored highest by far. Following secondary opinions, the presenter had expected a low score. The selection from the generally well regarded Bulgarian wines came in last and the  highly acclaimed Lebanon Chateau Muscar (blend one third each of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault, Carignan) came in second lowest, making for the highest priced lowest quality wine.
  5. The Chilean Primus was not a real challenger. It came in a clear second to the Kayra Buzbag and merely a notch ahead of the  Georgia Kondoli.
  6. Participants generally felt that the Kayra Buzbag was the best, and all things considered, a generally good buy. Using a simple linear metric of dividing the price of the wine by scoring points (from mediocre = 1 to exceptional=6) gave top rating to the Georgia Kondoli with a 6.7 score followed by the Kayra Buzbag and the Primus with 6.3 each.

View full evaluation here: Summary of Tasting Scores 62

Best Rated: 2013 Oekuegoezue – Bogazkere, Kayra Buzbag Rezerv, Anatolia, Turkey

Best Buy: 2011 Carmenere, Primus, Colchagua Valley, Chile

ADDITIONAL COMMENTARY

By Peter Scherer

We are creatures of customs and habits of acquired tastes.  We know how to navigate among Old and New World wines.  Our palate has been trained on the Cabernet Sauvignons, Merlots, Pinot Noirs, Shyras and the likes. These are the varietals that have gotten traction over native grapes in the Near Eastin recent years. Countries want to do business, they need to export. This implies adjustment to the tastes of the client. It means transplanting commercial varietals and adopting Western production methods. Virtually all viticulturalists and enologists of leading wine exporters in the Near East hail from premier Western wine academies. ​

While progress has been made in all countries, at different speeds with Bulgaria possibly leading the pack, they still lag far behind the established Old and New World producers.  Prices are very competitive, but the quality is not, yet. This is changing with the inflow of foreign ownership, capital and expertise, and the rigorous international training of domestic wine makers.

I had a basic choice between indigenous and popular Western varietals. The latter would have allowed to benchmark Near East producers against their export market competition — and to confirm that they are not yet there. Therefore, I chose the former with the exception of the Lebanese ​Chateau Musar, generally acclaimed as the standard setter for fine Near East wine making. The blend is Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault and Carignan.

Modern production methods, quality controls, sanitary requirements and research have been focused initially on Western varietals but are now increasingly applied also to indigenous grapes. In a way, tasting them is a journey into the past, an attitude to open the palate to different tastes. It reminds me of the experience listening to the recent festival at the Warner of the Qawwli Masters from Pakistan. In the beginning, I did not like the music and singing at all. My Wagner vibes revolted. Yet, I warmed up as I started to differentiate nuances and even found rhythmic similarities with rock music. Certainly not every day but once in a blue moon I would look forward to listening again.

In a way I hope something similar would happen to you during the event. First of course, you would enrich the gamut of your tasting experience with genuine Near East varietals prompted to add some sprinkle of not only a Bulgarian Cabernet but also its native Gamza, which you will have tried during the tasting. The real delight is discovering the individuality a country’s wines offer. But be prepared, some will have a rustic taste to them.

The sample of wines includes an outlier – a “challenger”. I chose a Chilean Carmenere to test whether the Near Eastern wines indeed taste differently from the Old and New World wines and whether we can, well, differentiate nuances.

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