Capri Ristorante – McLean, VA

TASTING OVERVIEW

The objective of these tasting is to assess and compare three Nebiolo-based wines from Piedmont, Italy and assess one Cortese white from the same region.

TYPE : Blind

1. 2018 Principessa Gavia, Cortese, Gavi, Piedmont 
2. 2015 Mauro Veglio, Barolo, DOGC, Piedmont 
3. 2014 Giribaldi, Barolo, DOCG, Piedmont 
4. 2016 Travaglini, Gattinara, DOCG, Piedmont

THE MENU

1. Mixed greens salad with raisins and vinaigrette
2. Butternut squash ravioli
3. Wild mushrooms risotto
4. Lamb with roasted vegetables and potatoes
5. Dessert and/or coffee

PRESENTERS: Orlando Mason and Ricardo Santiago

PARTICIPANTS: Orlando Mason, Orlando Reos, Alfonso Sanchez, Jairo Sanchez, Ricardo Santiago

INFORMATION ON THE WINES

(All information obtained and condensed from several Internet articles.)

The Wine: (WE) This has a subdued nose offering whiffs of honeydew. The simple palate offers green apple and lemon zest alongside vigorous acidity.

Winemaker Notes: Brilliant straw yellow color. The bouquet is intense, floral and fruity. In the mouth, the roundness is well balanced by a touch of acidity. Good persistence.  An aperitif wine, excellent with hors d’oeuvres and seafood.

The Winery: (Wine.com). In 1979, John and Harry Mariani, owners of Banfi Vintners, established the the Principessa Gavia estate. Just a few kilometers from the town of Strevi in Italy’s Piedmont region, this vineyard estate is dedicated exclusively to the cultivation of the Cortese di Gavi grape, the sole white grape used to make Principessa Gavia Gavi and the light frizzante Principessa Perlante.

Among Piedmont’s most historical and respected white wine producing zones, Gavi—also known as Gavi di Gavi and Cortese di Gavi—comes from Piedmont’s southeast, in the province of Alessandria. Gavi is the main town of the area; Cortese is the grape. Cortese for Gavi is grown in any of 11 communes in the area where the soils are abundant in chalky, white, limestone-rich clay. The best Gavi from these locations are delicately floral, with stone fruit and citrus characters and a crisp, mineral-laden finish.

While typically made in a fresh and unoaked style, by law Gavi can come in many forms: frizzante, spumante, metodo classico and méthode ancestrale. But most producers maintain a conventional winemaking practice of temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel and make fresh, still whites. However, there are several barrique-aged examples, which can be interesting. The biodynamic wines of Gavi, fermented with ambient yeasts can be the most expressive.

Read More about the winery here: https://castellobanfi.com/en/wines/banfi-wines/piedmont.php#secondo_blocco

 

2015 Mauro Veglio, Barolo, DOCG, Piedmont  

The Wine: Winemaker Notes: Ruby red of medium intensity and garnet red hues. Aromas are intense, harmonic, with ethereal and captivating nuances and a final note of red fruit. Balanced, with good persistence; already drinking well. Finishes with polished tannins and a delicate vanilla aftertaste. 

Wines and Spirits: This combines fruit from plots in the La Morra and Monforte d’Alba communes to make a fruit-forward, juicy Barolo laced with notes of licorice and vanilla bean. Ample acidity and supple tannins make it approachable in its youth. 

(Wine.com) Responsible for some of the most elegant and age-worthy wines in the world, Nebbiolo, named for the ubiquitous autumnal fog (called nebbia in Italian), is the star variety of northern Italy’s Piedmont region. Grown throughout the area, as well as in the neighboring Valle d’Aosta and Valtellina, it reaches its highest potential in the Piedmontese villages of Barolo, Barbaresco and Roero. Outside of Italy, growers are still very much in the experimentation stage but some success has been achieved in parts of California. Somm Secret—If you’re new to Nebbiolo, start with a charming, wallet-friendly, early-drinking Langhe Nebbiolo or Nebbiolo d’Alba.

The Winery: (Wine.com) Their families were farmers for many generations, like many other families in the Langhe. In 1992, Mauro began to drastically reduce the number of grapes per hectare and started to vinify on his own in his new cantina. He utilized shorter macerations with temperature controlled rotary-fermenters and aging in small oak barrels, and he started to produce, little by little, wines that were more elegant with higher quality grapes.

Unlike the tendency of contemporary philosophy production which means the same as manipulating nature, they believe in natural systems of cultivation and vinification: they reject the use of chemical fertilizers or pesticides in their vineyards. Any chemical process is refused in the winemaking as well as any artificial concentration or aromatization: this means that the quality of the wine is the result of the natural character of the vineyards, their soil composition and microclimatic differences determining the maturity of the individual vintages. The result is the authentic essence of their “terroir” in a glass.

Read more here: http://www.mauroveglio.com/en/winery

2014 Giribaldi, Barolo, DOCG, Piedmont 

The Wine: (WE) Dark berry, vanilla and toasted oak sensations lead the nose. The linear palate delivers black plum, mocha and clove alongside grainy tannins that lead to a mouth-puckering the finish. Drink after 2022.

A ruby red colour with garnet reflexes. On the nose wild roses, raspberries and cinnamon. In the mouth it is dry and warm with sensations of vanilla, tobacco, leather and green tea leaves.

The Winery: The Giribaldi winery began at the beginning of the 20th century and has been producing wines for three generations. In those days, times were hard, and agriculture was not only a means of income but also a real pride for those who loved their land even though it made them suffer so much. It was normal for them to make sacrifices for the land they brought up on. Giribaldi produces organic wines. “Today, “organic” may seem like a market trend. However, for our winery “organic” means something very different. We started our organic grape growing back in 2001, and we obtained our first organic certification in 2004. This makes us one of the first organic wine producers.”

Read more about this winery here: https://vinigiribaldi.it/en/

2016 Travaglini, Gattinara, DOCG, Piedmont 

The Wine:The Gattinara best expresses the classic qualities of the appellation; it is a wine with marked minerality and complexity.Deep ruby red in color with garnet reflections. On the nose, aromas of red fruit, blackberry, plum and licorice with hints of vanilla and leather. Full-bodied palate, with intense flavors of cherry, raspberry and spice culminating in a long and smooth finish. Outstanding with red meat, game, and hard cheeses. Recommended aging from 3 to 10 years, but this wine will easily maintain its integrity for years following.

The Winery: (from Taubfamilyselecctions.com) The Travaglini family has been producing remarkable, limited-production wines from their estate in Gattinara for four generations. Gattinara plays an important role in Italian viticulture, but until a couple decades after the turn of the century, this beautiful region of Alto Piemonte was nearly forgotten. A winemaking region older than Barolo, Gattinara covered almost 600 hectares by the end of the 1800’s, making it one of the largest in Northern Europe. The phylloxera plague, coupled with a devastating hail storm in 1905, completely destroyed the region and wine production in Gattinara was abandoned.

The Travaglini family has owned land in Gattinara since the beginning of the 19th century. They farmed a few hectares of land and produced wine for local consumption. The small winery started with Clemente Travaglini, who was succeeded by his son Arturo. It was not until 1958 however, when Arturo’s son, Giancarlo, established the Travaglini Estate Winery. It was Giancarlo who recognized a greater potential in Gattinara and executed groundbreaking changes in his vineyards and cellar, unseen before in the appellation. For example, he pioneered research into improving viticultural methods, such as high density planting (up to 5,000/HA), 100% hand-harvesting and Guyot vine training; today commonly practiced throughout the Appellation. His passion for Nebbiolo helped raise the profile of Gattinara, a commitment that has been carried on through the generations.

The Travaglini family owns 59 hectares of vineyards; 52 of which are dedicated to vines, primarily Nebbiolo, which covers roughly 50% of the total Gattinara DOCG. A small portion of old vines, is planted to native varieties Vespolina and Bonarda.

This small appellation lies in the rocky foothills of the Monte Rosa range, where ventilating winds blow down from the nearby Alps. Soils are rocky and rich in porphyry, granit and iron, imparting a reddish color in the soil. Similar in composition to the Alps, Monte Rosa’s sedimentary rocks is highly acidic, due to low levels of calcium carbonate and magnesium, and an absence of calcium. Vines grown in this rare soil produce grapes with a unique flavor profile, as well high acidity and tannins. Its northern, mountainous location experiences a continental climate, with very cold winters, warm, sunny summers, and a strong diurnal temperature shift.

Following traditional red wine fermentation in stainless steel tanks at controlled temperature, the wine is aged for 3 years: 2 years in used Slavonian oak casks of different sizes. The wine then rests for 3 months in bottle.

 

Read more here:

 VINOTABLES RATINGS FOR THIS TASTING:

The quality of all the reds was found from very good to excellent.  There was consensus that the best wine was the Mauro Veglio in terms of overall elegance, structure and balance.  All the reds have good potential to improve over time. The Gavia Cortese turned out surprisingly good for the price.  Good acidity, minerals and fruit, refreshing and easy to drink.

View full evaluation here: 69 Summary of Tasting Scores

ADDITIONAL NOTES

Barolo: (Wine.com) The center of the production of the world’s most exclusive and age-worthy red wines made from Nebbiolo, the Barolo region includes five core townships: La Morra, Monforte d’Alba, Serralunga d’Alba, Castiglione Falletto and the Barolo village itself, as well as a few outlying villages. The landscape of Barolo, characterized by prominent and castle-topped hills, is full of history and romance centered on the Nebbiolo grape. Its wines, with the signature “tar and roses” aromas, have a deceptively light garnet color but full presence on the palate and plenty of tannins and acidity. In a well-made Barolo, one can expect to find complexity and good evolution with notes of, for example, strawberry, cherry, plum, leather, truffle, anise, fresh and dried herbs, tobacco and violets.

There are two predominant soil types here, which distinguish Barolo from the lesser surrounding areas. Compact and fertile Tortonian sandy marls define the vineyards farthest west and at higher elevations. Typically the Barolo wines coming from this side, from La Morra and Barolo, can be approachable relatively early on in their evolution and represent the “feminine” side of Barolo, often closer in style to Barbaresco with elegant perfume and fresh fruit.

On the eastern side of the region, Helvetian soils of compressed sandstone and chalks are less fertile, producing wines with intense body, power and structured tannins. This more “masculine” style comes from Monforte d’Alba and Serralunga d’Alba. The township of Castiglione Falletto covers a spine with both soils types.

Nebiolo is a black grape with high levels of acidity and tannins but little color. In the Barolo wine region, the grapes ripen slowly in the steep south-facing slopes developing perfumed aromas of sour cherries, herbs and sometimes dried flowers. In the best years, the wines are full-bodied with high acidity and tannins and they have the ability to develop in the bottle. Today, improvements in vineyard management and gentler methods of extraction results in wines with smoother, riper tannins, and mean that many producers now choose to mature their wines for shorter periods of time. [WSET, Understanding wines: Explaining style and quality.]

The name Nebbiolo drives from nebbia, Italian for ‘fog’, probably referring to the thick, natural bloom covering the ripe berries, as if they were covered in a layer of fog. … in very general terms unadulterated Nebbiolo tends to be light in colour, turning orange with bottle age rather faster than most other red wine varieties, to be high in both acid and (especially) tannin, and to exhibit a haunting array of aromas which might include tar, cordite, leaf mould, dried cherries, liquorice, violets and rose. [Jancis Robinson et al., Wine Grapes.]

 

(Wine.com) 

 

 Capri Ristorante – McLean, VA

TASTING OVERVIEW

Argentina and Chile have grown significantly during the last two decades in international wine markets.  Grape vines cultivation and wine production began since the early years of Spanish settlement in these two countries.  Historical records show wine production since the beginning of the XVI century, initially as part of religious organizations activities and later as an established agricultural practice.   But only after 1970 the wines from Argentina and Chile started to become familiar names on the tables of restaurants almost all over the world.

In recent years new production areas and new grape varieties have appeared in the market in addition to the traditional Malbec or Torrontés in Argentina, and Carmenére or Cabernet Sauvignon in Chile, which have been flagship varieties of wines since the ‘70s.

In the spirit of Vinotables objective of exploring and tasting wines of high quality and in the process expanding the members’ knowledge of new wines as well as of wine and food pairing, we want to explore some of those new wines which are making noise in the market and are promise of great taste, aromas and flavors.

We have selected from Argentina a Bonarda from Mendoza, and a Pinot Noir from Rio Negro, Patagonia  a new production region with great potential for the creation of wines from certain varieties that adapt to colder climates.  From Chile we have selected Sauvignon Gris, a white Bordeaux variety that survived the filoxera in Chile, together with Cármenere. There are only a few houses that produce 100% Sauvignon Gris and they are only in France and Chile. Also a few top producers in Bordeaux mix it in their white wines.  The red wine from Chile is a Sirah which is comparatively new in Chile but it is growing in quality and popularity, in the same way that it happened with the Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir a few years ago

PRESENTERS: Orlando Mason and Orlando Reos

TYPE :Blind

PARTICIPANTS: Juan Luis Colaiacovo, Orlando Mason, Orlando Reos, Alfonso Sanchez, Peter Scherer

These are the wines:

1. 2015 Cousiño Macul, Isidora, Sauvignon Gris, Valle del Maule
2. 2016 Bodega Chacra Barda, Pinot Noir, Patagonia
3. 2014 El Enemigo Bonarda, Mendoza
4. 2015 Montes de Alpha Syrah, Colchagua Valley

THE MENU

1. Green salad
2. Fried calamari
3. Veal Ravioles in aurora sauce
4. Beef medallion and vegetables
5. Dessert and/or coffee

INFORMATION ON THE WINES

(All information obtained and condensed from several Internet articles.)

The Wine: (WE) This varietal Sauvignon Gris isn’t as aromatic as the more pungent Sauvignon Blanc. In the mouth, this is medium in body, with good overall texture. Dry racy flavors of scallion and bitter melon are not exuberant but turn fruitier on the finish.

(The Wine Bow Group) Clear, soft yellow with bright edges, this wine has a delicate freshness and zest on the nose. Fruit aromas of ripe peach, juicy pineapple and French lemon. In the mouth, it is very fresh, balanced and delightfully fun. A complex wine, citric and fresh with medium body that harmonizes quite well as an aperitif or with salads. Also a great accompaniment to seafood including crab, oysters, mussels or clams and all types of fish.

The Winery: (Wine-Searcher) Viña Cousiño-Macul is a Chilean winery based in the Maipo Valley, just south of Santiago. It was founded in 1856 and is one of the only producers founded in this time that is still family-owned. Cousiño-Macul makes a wide range of varietal and blended wines from international grape varieties including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay and Syrah.

Much of the estate’s production takes place in the Maipo Valley. The original vineyards are located in Macul, a commune east of Santiago. The calcareous soils here are well-suited to Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot production, and Cousiño-Macul’s top Finis Terrae wines are made from grapes sourced from this site. However, Santiago’s urban sprawl limited the size of production and so in 1996 Cousiño-Macul acquired 300 hectares (750 acres) of land in Buin, in the Alto Maipo. Cousiño-Macul’s third vineyard is located in Alhué, a coastal area of the Maipo, and is planted primarily to Carmenere and Syrah.

In total, the estate’s three vineyards are planted to nine different red and white grape varieties, all of which are planted on their own rootstocks. These range from premium offerings to more value-driven wines.

Isidora Goyenechea was born in 1836 to a family of prominent silver miners in northern Chile. She married Luis Cousiño in 1855, with whom she had seven children. Luis died in 1873, leaving Isidora with the challenge of raising their family and becoming steward to a group of companies ranging from coal mining to winemaking. Isidora courageously took the reins of both family and business, becoming one of the leading figures of Chilean society during the second half of the nineteenth century. Isidora’s role in Cousiño-Macul’s history may well be compared to that of the great “champagne widows” like Veuve Clicquot, Louise Pommery and Elisabeth “Lili” Bollinger. Her contributions to philanthropy and the development of the arts have added to her reputation as an outstanding feminine figure in the history of Chile. In an effort to convey Isidora’s elegance and strength, her name and personal crest have been selected as the signature elements for this new Sauvignon Gris label.

Read More about the winery here: http://www.cousinomacul.com/en/

2016 Bodega Chacra Barda, Pinot Noir, Patagonia 

The Wine: Winemaker Notes: Pure, minerally and powerful, with concentrated flavors of red plum and dried raspberry, loaded with powerful meaty notes. Sandalwood accents linger on the finish, showing caressing tannins. A perfect pairing for fish, salads and omelettes.

WE: Dusty, jumbled aromas of prune, raisin, sugar beet and leather are disparate. Chunky and flabby in feel, this tastes of oak, tomato and stewed berries. A flat finish fails to bring it around.

The Winery: (From Wine.com) Bodega Chacra is located in the Rio Negro Valley of northern Patagonia, 620 miles south of Buenos Aires, 1,240 miles north of Tierra del Fuego, and roughly equidistant west to east from the Andes Mountains and the Atlantic Ocean. The property’s situation in the arid central Argentine desert is tempered by the confluence of the Neuquen and Limay Rivers, both of which flow from the Andes and converge in the Rio Negro, which in turn flows into the Atlantic. The Rio Negro Valley itself is a glacial bed 15.5 miles wide stretching 310 miles along the river’s banks at an elevation of 750 feet above sea level. The valley is irrigated by a network of channels excavated in the late 1820s by British colonists who observed the abundant snow melt flowing from the Andes and created an oasis in the middle of the desert.

The climate is dry, with maximum humidity of thirty percent and an average of seven inches of rainfall annually. This aridity, coupled with the natural barrier of the surrounding desert, results in a complete absence of phylloxera and vine diseases. The air is pristine and without pollution, creating tremendous luminosity and purity of sunlight. During the ripening period, in the first quarter of the year, diurnal temperatures vary widely, ranging from an average of 82.4F (28C) during the day and 48.2F (9C) at night. The seasons are precisely defined, with hot summers, cold winters and mild springs and autumns. This consistency of climate enhances consistency of the wine from vintage to vintage.

Read more about  here: https://www.bodegachacra.com/

2014 El Enemigo Bonarda, Mendoza 

The Wine: This wine is a blend of 85% Bonarda and 15% Cabernet Franc. Aged 18 months, in French oak barrels 70% new and American oak barrels 30% new.

Winemaker Notes: This Bonarda shows a deep violet color with bluish reflections. The nose is intense and complex. Intense aromas of ripe black fruit, blackberries, raspberries, black cherries, chocolate and liquor, with some spicy notes of fresh herbs provided by the Cabernet Franc appear. The taste has a sweet impact with silky tannins and aromas of ripe black and red fruits with notes of licorice and vanilla. Its natural acidity is refreshing. By its concentration and complexity the finish is long and persistent. Enjoy this wine alongside roast lamb, empanadas, and light pastas dishes.

WE: Grapy and floral smelling up front, this Bonarda smells reduced. A tight, rubbery palate is drawing but freshened by a mild shot of acidity. Savory oaky plum and berry flavors finish baked, minty and oaky.

The Winery: “They were about to uproot this entire Bonarda vineyard but fortunately I was able to rescue five hectares. This wonderful vineyard, planted in the parral (high pergola) tranining system, is located in Rivadavia.” – Alejandro Vigil. Made of grapes from the El Mirador, Rivadavia, and Gualtallary vineyards planted in 1950 in soils composed by calcareous, rocks, and sand at elevation 2,145-4,851 feet.

Read more here: http://enemigowines.com/index.html

2015 Montes de Alpha Syrah, Colchagua Valley 

The Wine: Winemaker Notes: The Montes Alpha Syrah is an intense ruby-red color. The nose presents floral aromas with tobacco and leather notes. This is a very elegant wine with strong, smooth tannins and tremendous body on the palate. Blend: 90% Syrah, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Viognier

Highly recommended with red meats, stir-fried beef, pork chops, spaghetti with Bolognese sauce.

WE: Deep purple in color, this cool-vintage Syrah excels via smooth cherry, cassis, cedar and charcoal aromas. A full-bodied palate is balanced by firm acidity, while plum, berry, cassis and chocolate flavors finish in harmony. Drink through 2020.

The Winery: With the release of the first Montes Alpha wine back in 1988, Montes became one of the first premium wineries of Chile. Their premise, a clear belief that Chile had an untapped potential as a producer of quality wines, made them a benchmark for other wineries to follow. Its original four partners’ total involvement and the continuous help of the angels that decorate their labels was key to their success. Two decades later, Montes is the fifth most important winery of Chile where Aurelio Montes continues leading the winemaking area with the same passion as the first day. Hard work and total focus on quality has led Montes to be one of the most successful and respected quality-driven wineries in Chile as they continue pioneering and breaking new grounds in wine.

(From Wine Searcher) Montes is a large wine producer in Chile, exporting wines to more than 100 countries around the world. The company produces a wide range of wines from classic Chilean grape varieties including Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenere, Merlot, Syrah and Chardonnay. Purple Angel, a Carmenère-predominant wine from the Colchagua Valley, is Montes’ flagship and one of Chile’s most famous wines. Today, the company’s vineyards span the length of the country, from Aconcagua and Casablanca Valley in the north to Apalta in the south. These are managed with as little irrigation as possible, to strengthen the vines, and green harvesting helps with berry concentration. Vineyards are harvested either late at night or early in the morning to help maintain the freshness of the grapes.

There is a state-of-the-art 2.3-million-liter winery in Apalta, where many of Montes’ top wines are both grown and made. Along with the Purple Angel, the the steepest and highest slopes of the vineyards in Apalta provide grapes for the Folly Syrah, a concentrated and ageworthy red wine. The Alpha M Bordeaux blend is also made here, from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Taita is the newest addition to Montes’ icon wines, and focuses on Cabernet Sauvignon from the estate in Marchigüe.

Montes also offer a range of everyday drinking wines. The Alpha and Classic series focus on varietal wines from Chile’s most famous grape varieties, while the Outer Limits range focuses on wines from more extreme regions.

Read more here: https://www.monteswines.com/en/

 VINOTABLES RATINGS FOR THIS TASTING:

 

View full evaluation here: Summary of Tasting Scores 64

Best Rated: 2014 El Enemigo Bonarda, Mendoza 89- 91 Pts

Best Buy: 2014 El Enemigo Bonarda, Mendoza $18

ADDITIONAL NOTES

Bonarda: Variety characteristics and its History in Argentina

The origin of Argentina’s Bonarda Grape had for many years been the subject of much dispute. While many thought it to be the same varietal as Bonarda Piemontese, or even Bonarda Novarese, known as Uva Rara, or “the rare grape”, which is appropriate since Bonarda has pretty well disappeared in Italy.  Its actual roots seem to stem from Savoie, France where it was known as Corbeau. It is speculated that at one time it was transported across the Alps to Italy’s Piedmont where, after many generations of cultivation by Italian winemakers and their families, perhaps its French origin was forgotten or its vines had simply been confused for another varietal planted nearby before being transported to the Americas in the late 19th century. It was brought here by immigrants from northern Italy. In Piedmont, home of Barolo and Barbaresco, where there are three different grapes of this name and no-one really knows which one travelled to the Argentine. By the time of its emigration, the vine would have taken on a number of local or regional denominations, which would not be untangled until the technological breakthrough of genetic testing one hundred years later. It may be the same as a Californian grape called Charbono.

Today, despite DNA evidence stating otherwise, Argentina’s Bonarda has steadfastly claimed its name and identity as something distinctly Argentine. But perhaps rightly so. After all, each grape grows differently under different environmental circumstances, and Bonarda’s emergent popularity and critical successes in recent years are easily attributed to the grape’s prosperity in Mendoza’s ideal growing conditions. Upon introduction to Argentina, the Bonarda perfectly acclimated to Mendoza’s climate, soil, altitude and other variables, and its planting soon grew very popular. The vine tended to produce high yield and extremely vigorous plants; favored characteristics for early argentine winemakers more concerned with quantity than quality. Because of this, incorrect pruning and conduction led to the vine overshading the cluster. This would of course negatively affect the properties of the wine by today’s standards, exemplified by being weak in color, light-bodied, herbal and low in alcohol. Nevertheless, it was quantity that mattered and in 1936, Bonarda covered approximately 15,000 acres (about 6,000 hectares), and by 2001 its cultivation had more than doubled to over 30,000 acres (about 12,000 hectares). At present, Bonarda is Argentina’s fourth most widely planted red grape. In 2014 Bonarda registered almost 20,000 hectares in production, mostly in Mendoza.

When Bonarda is handled with more refined viticulture techniques and is elaborated under skillful processes that are commonplace today, it can easily be crafted into high-quality wines. Until recently, the Bonarda variety was used only for bulk production, table wines, or to improve and balance blends. However it is now regarded with much more respect, and its elaboration into very attractive varietals and bi-varietals, such as the Syrah-Bonarda and Bonarda-Malbec, are clear evidence of this.

Bonarda grapes need hot weather, plenty of sunshine over the cluster, low yield and adequate ripening, which are conditions found throughout Argentina’s prime winegrowing regions. However in San Rafael’s Cuadro Benegas district, winemakers have discovered an additional advantage unique to its geography. The district is situated between the Diamante River to the north and the Atuel River to the south, and both are fed by the purest glacial runoff from the snowcapped Andes Mountains. The district’s location between the two rivers has had a remarkable affect on the soil conditions in the area. It has been argued that Cuadro Benegas is the best place to cultivate grapes in the region, and it is repeatedly recommended to produce top wines due to the considerable benefits delivered from its mineral-rich loam. In a recent private study carried out for Algodon Wine Estates by Agronomía San Rafael, laboratory analysis determined that the soil qualities in Cuadro Benegas are optimal for the cultivation of Bonarda and other red varieties. Soil conditions allow for healthy and prosperous root development, and provide the nourishment required for red varieties to complete their growth cycle and biological ripening of the fruit. Moreover, the presence of soil-required elements such as calcium, magnesium, nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus, and zinc, as well as pH values are all found in choice levels.

A good Bonarda is known for its intense ruby-red colors up to the violets, and continuing through purples. It is a wine with an intense nose. It is fruity-flavored with red and black fruit and ripe fruits of the forest such as strawberries, blackberries, cassis and cherries. It often presents a spiced aftertaste and aromas of vanilla and tobacco, if oak-aged. It has a pleasant mouthfeel, with a sweet entrance and good intensity. One of the most remarkable characteristics is expressed in the smoothness of its ripe tannins combined with the fruit.

Color: The Bonarda is well-known by its intense ruby-reds which go up to violets, going through purples

Nose: The Bonarda presents an intense nose. Its primary aromas are red and black fruit and ripe fruits of the forest such as strawberries, blackberries, cassis and cherries. It often presents a spiced aftertaste and aromas of vanilla and tobacco if oak-aged.

Mouthfeel: Pleasant and sweet at first, with good intensity. Less tannic than the Cabernet Sauvignon. Its smooth tannins make it velvety and elegant. The oak-aging gives it excellent maturity in addition to the vanilla and toasty aromas.

Maturation: The Bonarda undergoes in-bottle evolution faster than the Malbec or Cabernet Sauvignon. Oak helps it reach an excellent maturation.

Pairing: Grilled meats and vegetables, spiced dishes, pasta, legumes, roast beef, and hard cheeses. In only the past few years the traditional consensus of this variety has completely changed.

The Bonarda has suddenly gained credence as a varietal, particularly in Mendoza where it is highly benefited by weather conditions, soil, altitude and rainfall. Appropriate labor on the vine combined with low yield control, result in exceptional quality. Some wineries have moved ahead by carefully producing the Bonarda utilizing the same industrial processes they customarily follow when elaborating wine from long established “fine” varieties such as the Cabernet Sauvignon or the Malbec. Bonarda is distinctive, it is a wine of great personality, apt for oak-aging, and obligingly willing to grow and grow…..

Adapted from:  https://www.algodonfinewines.com/terroir/Bonarda.ANewAppreciation-AlgodonWines

 

 

 Capri Ristorante – McLean, VA

PRESENTERS: Jorge Requena, Alfonso Sanchez

TYPE :  Blind

PARTICIPANTS: Juan Luis Colaiacovo, Orlando Mason, Orlando Reos, Jorge Requena, Alfonso Sanchez, Jairo Sanchez, Peter Scherer

TASTING OVERVIEW 

The presenters selected one white and four red wines for this tasting.  All the reds are blends of Rhone style in a price range from $20 to $60.  Three reds  and the white are from the Central Coast in California (Paso robles and Santa Barbara) a fourth is from Gigondas, Rhone valley in France. The objectives and challenges of this tasting are:

• Identify the old world bottle
• Identify the type of blend (Super Tuscan, Bordeaux, Meritage, Rhone, etc.)
• Identify the regions
• Identify the base variety of the blends
• Establish a ranking of preference
• Determine the best buy, once te prices are divulged

(From Wine Searcher) Paso Robles has made a name for itself as a source of supple, fruity, and powerful wines. With 11 smaller sub-AVAs, there is quite a bit of diversity to be found in this inland portion of California’s Central Coast. This is mostly red wine country, with Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel standing out as the star performers. Other popular varieties include Merlot, Petite Sirah, Petit Verdot, and Rhône varieties both red and white. There is a fairly uniform tendency here towards wines that are unapologetically bold and opulently fruity, albeit with a surprising amount of acidity thanks to the region’s chilly nighttime temperatures.

Ballard Canyon is an AVA encompassed within the larger Santa Ynez Valley region of California’s famous Santa Barbara County. The 3157-hectare (7800-acre) viticultural area was officially recognized as an AVA in October 2013, but has long been highly regarded for its red wines made from Syrah and Grenache. In fact, approximately half of the AVA’s vineyards are devoted to Syrah.  The viticultural region lies to the west of the Happy Canyon AVA and east of the AVA of Sta. Rita Hills. Ballard Canyon itself is a long, thin canyon that runs in a curve from north to south and is surrounded by a myriad of smaller canyons interspersed with dry, rugged hills. The soils in the Ballard Canyon AVA are more uniform than in the larger Santa Ynez Valleyand are made up of sand and clay loam with good drainage capacities. Limestone, too, is present in certain northern vineyard plots. Vines planted in the steeper vineyard sites are able to develop deep root systems in search of water in the AVA’s arid environment, thereby increasing vine strength. The good level of calcium in Ballard Canyon’s soils ensures the development of thick skins and increases the concentration of tannins, sugars and acids in the grapes, leading to richly flavored, well-balanced wines.

These are the wines:

1. 2016 Tenshen White Blend, Santa Barbara
2. 2016 Daou Vineyards Pessimist Red Blend, Paso Robles 
3. 2015 Domain Du Cayron Gigondas, Gigondas, Rohne
4. 2015 L’Aventure Optimus, Paso Robles
5. 2015 Piedrasassi Harrison Clarke Vineyard, Santa Barbara

THE MENU

1. Gazpacho
2. Risotto de fungi
3. Veal ravioli with meat sauce
4. Grilled steak potatoes and vegetables
5. Dessert and/or coffee

INFORMATION ON THE WINES

(All information obtained and condensed from several Internet articles.)

The Wine: Winemaker Notes. Aromas of tangerine and ripe melon lead to flavors of peach and apricot. Balanced acidity and juicy honeysuckle accent the finish with a hint of hazelnut. Rhone Style White Blend: Viognier, Rousanne, Grenache Blanc, Chardonnay.

The Winery: Alex Guarachi. Over 30 years ago, Alex Guarachi came to the United States from Chile on a soccer scholarship. When an injury shattered his athletic dreams, he went back to his roots for inspiration on what to do next. Alex embraced his other passion: the wines of his homeland. Having worked from a garage and performing every task, Alex eventually built his wine import company, Guarachi Wine Partners, into one of the industry’s leading companies and in 2010 was honored as Importer of the Year by Wine Enthusiast.

Julian Gonzalez. Gonzalez was Lead Winemaker for all Paul Hobbs Consulting programs from 2007 to 2016. Prior to that, Gonzalez worked under winemaker and mentor, Rolando Herrera, at Mi Sueno, Argentina’s Vina Cobos and Paul Hobbs Winery in addition to working in the cellars at Stag’s Leap, Dominus Estate and Louis M. Martini Winery. Gonzalez has multiple 100-point wines under his pedigree.

Read More about the winery here: http://www.tenshenwines.com/

2016 Daou Vineyards Pessimist Red Blend, Paso Robles

The Wine: The Pessimist is a blend of Syrah, Petite Sirah, Zinfandel and Tannat.

Deep red color with dark tints. Exotic nose of raspberry, mulberry, and apricot. Very fresh and spicy in the mouth with blackberry flavors.

Not only does it show the vintage’s ripe fruit in the form of red plums, stone fruit and supple tannins, it still retains fine details like wisps of fennel, cracked pepper and a long, licorice-tinged finish.

The Winery: (From Wine.com) In the golden, oak-studded hills of Paso Robles’ fabled west side, not far from William Randolph Hearst’s magnificent castle, there is a man with a Homeric vision. His name is Daniel Daou and he is devoting his life and every imaginable resource to creating, first and foremost, a Cabernet Sauvignon that rivals the very best in the world.

Gracefully perched atop a stunning promontory at 2,200 feet, the DAOU Spanish Colonial style winery is embraced by a tangible serenity. Hawks wheel and bank while the all-day sun caresses close planted rows of lush, emerald green vines. The 100 percent calcareous soil makes no sound as it passes out nourishment and only a gentle breeze flows up through the Templeton Gap from the Pacific. The quiet is bewitching; you want to lay down roots here, just as the four-year-old vines have done. But the sense of peace belies the serious industry at work on this 100 acre estate. No effort is spared to create the luscious varietals and blends that flow from this limited production winery. This kind of synergy happens rarely: superlative climate and terroir, super intensive vineyard culture, and cutting edge viticultural practice. You’re more likely to find it in Bordeaux than Central California. Coupled with the infectious passion and gracious, family style hospitality of the Daou brothers, Georges and Daniel, the result is pure magic. The kind of magic that comes in a bottle.

Read more about  here: https://www.wine-searcher.com/producer-15993-daou-vineyards

2015 Domain Du Cayron Gigondas, Gigondas, Rohne 

The Wine : Winemaker Notes: Deep red color with dark tints. Exotic nose of raspberry, mulberry, and apricot. Very fresh and spicy in the mouth with blackberry flavors.Enjoy on its own or pair with Beef Burgundy, red meat, game and cheeses.

RP: The tank sample of Domaine du Cayron’s 2015 Gigondas looks to be excellent. Not only does it show the vintage’s ripe fruit in the form of red plums, stone fruit and supple tannins, it still retains fine details like wisps of fennel, cracked pepper and a long, licorice-tinged finish. Drink this slightly warm, full-bodied wine from release through 2025.

Indicative blend: 70% Grenache, 15% Cinsault 14% Syrah, 1% Mourvedre.

The Winery: The Domaine de Cayron has been run by the Faraud family for the past four generations, opening in 1840 at the foot of the Dentelles de Montmirail.The fifth and current generation is run by the three Faraud sisters. The eldest, Delphine, is in charge of sales, accounting and client relations, while Cendrine and the youngest Roseline, armed with their combined knowledge and savoir-fair, work together to produce high-quality wines while, guided by their father, Michel Faraud, remaining true to age-old traditions.

The estate comprises 17 ha (42 acres) of clay marl and limestone, sand and gravel. We have around 20 separate plots, which are located throughout the Gigondas appellation, along the Dentelles de Montmirail (2.5ha at the neck of the Cayron at 400m high) and across garrigue, including 2ha of vineyard in the Bois de Menge that are up to 70 years old.

Read more here: http://www.domaineducayron.com/en/domain.php

2015 L’Aventure Optimus, Paso Robles 

The Wine: Winemaker Notes: Optimus is a classically- styled wine that truly embodies oursaying: L’Aventure…where the Bordeaux meets the Rhône!. 60% Syrah, 21% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Petit Verdot.

Vinous: Inky ruby. An exotically perfumed bouquet evokes spice-accented cherry and blueberry, while smoke and vanilla nuances add complexity. Sappy and expansive on the palate, offering sweet dark fruit flavors that show liqueur-like depth and a surprisingly light touch. Closes on a gently tannic note, displaying impressive clarity, repeating spiciness and strong cling.

The Winery: Stephan Asseo, owner and winemaker at L’Aventure Winery, began making wine in 1982, following his education at L’Ecole Oenologique de Macon, Burgundy, France. In that same year, Stephan established Domaine de Courteillac in Bordeaux. He and his family later purchased Chateau Fleur Cardinal and Chateau Robin in the Cotes de Castillion, Bordeaux. Over the next 15 years, Stephan developed into an artisan winemaker of fastidious craftsmanship and gained a reputation as a maverick vigneron. However, his true desire was to be more innovative than AOC law would allow. In 1996, this led him on a quest for a great terroir, where he could pursue his ideal as a winemaker. After searching for over a year among the world’s great wine fields, ranging from South Africa to Lebanon, Argentina to Napa, Stephan found Paso Robles. Stephan immediately “fell in love” with the unique terroir of west side Paso Robles. The rolling topography of the Santa Lucia Mountain Range, the deep calcareous soils, and the maritime influences of the renowned Templeton Gap all combine to produce a world class wine country, with the potential to craft some of the world’s greatest blends. It is here, in Paso Robles, that Stephan began his adventure, “L’Aventure”.

The spirit of L’Aventure is most evident in Stephan’s “Paso Blends”, such as Optimus and Estate Cuvée. Both wines are Syrah/ Cabernet Sauvignon/ Petit Verdot blends. In these wines, as well as in our Rhône blend Côte à Côte, the blending of premium varietals increases the authenticity, complexity, and balance of the wines. In this adventurous spirit, we find the future of Paso Robles wines… great, balanced red blends.

Read more here: http://www.aventurewine.com/

2015 Piedrasassi Harrison Clarke Vineyard, Santa Barbara 

The Wine: Winemaker Notes: Hilarie and Roger Harrison planted their estate mostly to Syrah but later grafted over some vines to Mourvedre—in part as a response to some of the fruit ripening a bit quickly on the clay over limestone soils there. Mourvedre is a later, more patient grape, taking its time through the growing season and not as prone to jackrabbit-fast ripening on calcareous soils as Syrah tends to be. Some Syrah at this site still matures a little early for the winery’s liking, but the addition of the Mourvedre at assemblage brings nuance and balance in the midst of southern-Rhone stylerobustness.

The Winery: Since we began making the Piedrasassi wines in 2003, our ideas about wine have expanded and evolved. We enjoy drinking wines from lots of different regions–Burgundy, the Northern Rhône, Beaujolais, the Jura, and Piedmont, to name a few–so it is difficult to pin us down to a specific style we try to emulate. We are blown away by the tradition and sense of place of wines like Albert Dervieux’s lyrical La Viallière from Côte-Rôtie, and are amazed at the stylized concentration and texture of Stanko Radikon’s avant-garde Ribolla Gialla from Friuli. And we are continually inspired by the diversity of grapes and wines cultivated in the wide open, relatively uncharted territory that is the California wine industry.

The way these widespread tastes express themselves in the winery is in our different bottlings of our flagship varietal, Syrah, and a handful of small offerings of other varietals. For the Syrah, we focus on cooler climate vineyards, using native yeasts, low sulfur, and stem inclusion at fermentation to give transparency to the wines and to develop wines that have exuberant, lively aromatics. For the green label Sauvignon Blanc, we use extended skin contact for a mouthfeel unusual in a white wine. And the whole-cluster, closed-tank fermentation of the carbonic Sangiovese gives the wine a great freshness and energy that we absolutely love.

The common thread among all the wines we love and admire is that there are both a mind and a place behind them. Wine, just like food, or music, or art, should have a certain kind of authenticity–it should come from someone and somewhere. This idea is what informs the work that we do. We try to make honest wines that we believe in. We hope you like them.

Read more here: http://www.piedrasassi.com/

 VINOTABLES RATINGS FOR THIS TASTING:

View full evaluation here: Summary of Tasting Scores 63

Best Rated:  2015 Domain Du Cayron Gigondas, Gigondas, Rohne;  92-93 Pts.

Best Buy: 2016 Daou Vineyards Pessimist Red Blend, Paso Robles; 90-91 Pts.  $25